 | Home > Technical > Isolate or ground?? |
 
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240   
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I think that depends on the context. If you're re-building a vehicle, as I know you are, and are introducing isolation between those sorts of parts that didn't have it before, then you'll need to provide a new earth path. If you are suggesting earthing the part that you've isolated, that would seem to defeat the object and would likely lead to a poor connection when galvanic corrosion inevitably takes hold again at some point in the future. Lots of variables though including how exposed to moisture the connection might be and exactly what you earth it to. I guess the most robust solution would be an earth directly to the battery or at least the chassis, and leave the newly isolated part alone. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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15th Dec 2022 12:46pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3210  
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Yes, Darren, it is a question or doubt that I have on my head and is regarding my restoration. My 90 already had quite some isolation done during its life, and luckily never had electrical issues. However, now, the isolation is on a completely new level, as unlike Landrover, everything got a very good coat of paint as individual parts, plus plastic isolation between everything, including washers etc. I have not tested for continuity yet, but I am afraid that the meter will show infinite ohms.
Have a similar thought, and run a cable from each earth point to a common point, such as on the gearbox\transfer as those are connected to the battery. I think I have to see case by case what is not working when I come to that stage, but thought I could tap some ideas here. On the bulkhead and chassis earthing points, I had to scrape off the paint but that was copying the original setup. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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15th Dec 2022 3:26pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19579
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Durite anti corrode, though it’s a product designed for area specific application and not general large scale area application.
Make sure mating surfaces are clean, apply anti corrode grease, fit items. Wipe off any excess if external and put a product like Dinitrol over if you like or if interior such as battery they keep a thin layer of anti corrode on parts. If it gets contaminated over time with dust etc, just wipe off and reapply. Generally I only find it needs to be used for battery posts and components that may corrode. You can get it in small tubes by a simple google search, however, I can get a tub of it commercially somewhere but it’s not cheap. Joints should be bare metal and clean, no paint between mating surfaces. Non electrical galvanic corrosion protection, ss seize protection, etc is obviously duralac and similar products. Wherever I have used the Durite anti corrode I’ve always had excellent continuity readings, it should help prevent copper tarnishing etc too, but tinned copper items if copper base material is even better then anti corrode. Ideally both as Defenders get a lot of damp and wet etc. Putting wiring projects aside, the Durite Anti corrode tubes are ideal for the battery posts and clamps for those who may want to do that. Even a smear over in situ.  Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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15th Dec 2022 11:16pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3210
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Thanks 90steve. I have something similar for battery posts, have not tried it on electrical connections though. For electrical connections I use a very light smear of dielectric grease (I use Permatex as a brand). 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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16th Dec 2022 8:33am |
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