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Home > Puma (Tdci) > 2.4 clutch replacement - what else to get done?
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3618
United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
If it’s anything like mine, the new clutch will do a world of good on the drive line slack. When the clucth springs actually do their job they dampen the whole thing down nicely on a puma. However, it only lasts about 10k miles before it is back (using a genuine LR clutch).
Post #956974 1st Jul 2022 12:46pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19620
United Kingdom 
Parts prices are huge right now.

Often £5 added to items worth £30 - £50 and £10 onto items £100+ etc.
I’ve seen this happen in the last couple of months, Genuine windscreen wiper wheel boxes as an example. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #956981 1st Jul 2022 4:08pm
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Honeyman



Member Since: 02 May 2022
Location: Haarlemmermeer
Posts: 58
Netherlands 2011 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Sumatra Black
Co1 wrote:
If it’s anything like mine, the new clutch will do a world of good on the drive line slack….


Here’s hoping! I’m curious to see how much is due to the clutch 2011MY 130 HCPU: daily driver
1979MY RRC 2-door: on the drive, in the garage & in a shed - all at the same time.
Post #956983 1st Jul 2022 4:43pm
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Honeyman



Member Since: 02 May 2022
Location: Haarlemmermeer
Posts: 58
Netherlands 2011 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Sumatra Black
custom90steve wrote:
Parts prices are huge right now.

Often £5 added to items worth £30 - £50 and £10 onto items £100+ etc.
I’ve seen this happen in the last couple of months, Genuine windscreen wiper wheel boxes as an example.


Ain’t that the truth! We’ll soon be at the the “order your parts in the morning because it’ll cost more in the afternoon” stage 2011MY 130 HCPU: daily driver
1979MY RRC 2-door: on the drive, in the garage & in a shed - all at the same time.
Post #956988 1st Jul 2022 4:50pm
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Ads90



Member Since: 16 Jun 2008
Location: Cots-on-the-Wolds
Posts: 800
United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
custom90steve wrote:
At the minimum you’ll need a new clutch and slave, flywheel replacement is possible depending on condition so I’m going to get one of those in case.
Again the same applies to the intermediate shaft, if it’s in good condition I’d tend to leave it and re-grease.
I’m intending to get the flywheel and intermediate shaft in case they are needed anyway, if they aren’t then I will keep them until they will be which one day they will.

My LOF clutch kit and new genuine output shaft have arrived Very Happy
The modified LOF & Ashcroft shafts are not currently in stock, so saved some money and will make sure the new one goes in well greased!

Steve - you mentioned you got a new flywheel too. My mechanic initially advised getting a new one fitted whilst in there, but now saying don't bother (note he hasn't seen it yet). Is the flywheel on mine (2007) dual mass? And at 81K miles, what are your thoughts on replacement?
(Money is tight, so I'm inclined not to unless it's advised).
Post #957442 6th Jul 2022 12:03pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1790
United Kingdom 
Puma’s are NOT dual mass flywheels.

Se post from blackwolf have way down https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72603...t=flywheel
Post #957444 6th Jul 2022 1:00pm
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Ads90



Member Since: 16 Jun 2008
Location: Cots-on-the-Wolds
Posts: 800
United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Thanks Ian, that's one less thing to worry about!
So it should only need replacing if excessively worn?
Post #957447 6th Jul 2022 1:47pm
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Honeyman



Member Since: 02 May 2022
Location: Haarlemmermeer
Posts: 58
Netherlands 2011 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Sumatra Black
Unless the original clutch disintegrated and caused damage - you should be OK with the flywheel. 2011MY 130 HCPU: daily driver
1979MY RRC 2-door: on the drive, in the garage & in a shed - all at the same time.
Post #957454 6th Jul 2022 2:58pm
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Ads90



Member Since: 16 Jun 2008
Location: Cots-on-the-Wolds
Posts: 800
United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Thanks Honeyman.
Have you fitted yours yet?
Mine's booked in for end of next week, will report back on my general impressions.

For anyone interested, I went for the LOF 'Power' clutch kit which includes the 2.2 slave, and the standard OEM replacement output shaft which we'll grease.
I am not changing the master cylinder or adding the spring assist at this stage, will see how it feels first.
There is currently a lot of slack in my drivetrain which even with careful gearchanges is now clonking away - it's only really been noticeable for the last 5K miles or so. And more recently noticed the rattle coming from the clutch.
Post #957455 6th Jul 2022 3:23pm
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Honeyman



Member Since: 02 May 2022
Location: Haarlemmermeer
Posts: 58
Netherlands 2011 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Sumatra Black
Not done yet: LOF clutch and Ashcroft shaft kit (which may not get fitted - I’ll see once I’m in there) have arrived - but I’m waiting for an ATB centre diff and fitting kit. As the transfer box has to come out anyway I thought I’d upgrade. TBH I’m not looking forward to the job… 2011MY 130 HCPU: daily driver
1979MY RRC 2-door: on the drive, in the garage & in a shed - all at the same time.
Post #957457 6th Jul 2022 3:37pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19620
United Kingdom 
IanH is correct with his post - apologies for not replying at the time I haven’t been on here much.

Drivetrain clunks, one of the most pronounced I found was worn rear halfshafts and flanges.
You can normally tell this if you get a lot of excess movement with handbrake on and taking on and off drive.
Damper bushes usually depend on forward or backward body roll. (Mainly).
A frame bushes or A frame ball joint is usually like a rattle at speeds around 20mph, often shows up more on a byway or minor country road with poor road surface.

You can usually check these things, you will be able to identify it if any of these things are culprit.
(Usually by artificially creating component or body movement aka giving things a good pull around by hand and listening for any movements / knocks).

I wouldn’t recommend just swapping out items just in case, unless money is no object.

Prop UJ’s is another thing, but to check them properly you really need to unbolt at least one end. (With vehicle fully secured*). And then feel for play in the UJ’s.
The damper bushes and a frame stuff are the easier ones to diagnose.

I’m not an expert, but this is just a few things that I’ve gone about to diagnose these things. Thumbs Up Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #957499 6th Jul 2022 8:45pm
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Ads90



Member Since: 16 Jun 2008
Location: Cots-on-the-Wolds
Posts: 800
United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Thanks Steve. So I have the back axle up on stands atm whilst I repaint the rear crossmember - with the handbrake on (so rear prop locked) and I turn a rear wheel - approx. how many degrees, or minutes on the clock do you think might be 'normal' for it to turn through before the opposite rear wheel moves?
I'd imagine this would be a good test of halfshaft spline wear?
At a guess (I'll check tomorrow) I reckon I can turn it about 5 minutes (30deg).
Post #957516 6th Jul 2022 11:35pm
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Ads90



Member Since: 16 Jun 2008
Location: Cots-on-the-Wolds
Posts: 800
United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Just a short update to this thread - another part you might end up needing is a new exhaust, if like mine yours is getting on a bit.
Mine is the original so now 15 yrs old, and although it hadn't failed, the joints had corroded beyond the point of being refit-able after removing to do the clutch.

I took the plunge & went for a new Demand S/S which arrived this morning (looks lovely) and is hopefully going on this afternoon to finish the job.
Big thanks to Laura & Dan at Demand for being so helpful & getting it made so quickly and at short notice (all in this heatwave)!

Will report back on my overall impressions of the LOF clutch, output shaft & Demand exhaust when I get to drive it.
Post #958835 19th Jul 2022 1:42pm
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Honeyman



Member Since: 02 May 2022
Location: Haarlemmermeer
Posts: 58
Netherlands 2011 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Sumatra Black
Hi Ads, sorry for the delay: just started on the job today. Luckily the exhaust was fine and came off without too much grief. The gods are balancing that with the state of the oil and metal shavings that came out of the transfer case, however - so still plenty to do…. 2011MY 130 HCPU: daily driver
1979MY RRC 2-door: on the drive, in the garage & in a shed - all at the same time.
Post #959985 29th Jul 2022 7:30pm
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