 | Home > Technical > 89 Defender 90 have to SLAM doors? |
 
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| Leamreject Member Since: 19 Dec 2020 Location: Middle Earth - Leamington Spa Posts: 955   
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Reminds me of mine when I first got my 90. Although my door seals looked new and appeared good I had to replace them with genuine LR ones to improve it.
There are some clips on here showing the difference between OE and aftermarket, any small change in firmness makes a huge difference. Ride like you stole it!! If I’m not on a bike it’s because only a 4x4 will do… 2011 2.4 Puma 90 HT |
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8th Aug 2022 6:19am |
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2078  
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Soulrider,
I'd like to have seen your door set when latched on the video. I suggest that the striker on the door jamb is too far inboard. These are completely adjustable, up down in and out so be very very careful adjusting their position. You only want to slacken the screws enough that it will move with a gentle tap of the mallet and only in the direction you tap. Crack the screws loose so that they still grip and tap the striker toward the outside, maybe a 1/16 or 1/8", nip up the screws (important) and try the door. HTH Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. |
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8th Aug 2022 12:28pm |
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| Leamreject Member Since: 19 Dec 2020 Location: Middle Earth - Leamington Spa Posts: 955
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That doesn’t sound right especially as the doors don’t sit anything like flush currently. Surely that type of adjustment would make the door sit even prouder than they do now. Ride like you stole it!!
If I’m not on a bike it’s because only a 4x4 will do… 2011 2.4 Puma 90 HT |
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8th Aug 2022 12:34pm |
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2078
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Get it latching easily and see how the set is then. It's a 5 minute job and datum to then work from.
Once it's latching then we can discuss how it's set and adjust further. I don't think it needs the expense of new seals. Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. |
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8th Aug 2022 12:47pm |
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| Leamreject Member Since: 19 Dec 2020 Location: Middle Earth - Leamington Spa Posts: 955
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Might be best to removed the seal completely to check how the door sits and then work from
that. Ride like you stole it!! If I’m not on a bike it’s because only a 4x4 will do… 2011 2.4 Puma 90 HT |
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8th Aug 2022 1:31pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2548 
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It’s also very common for defender doors to be slightly bowed inwards at the top and bottom - this has the effect of causing the door to be hard to close as the door latches at the middle point and so you have to effectively flex the door straight in order for it to do so. The fix is to very gently bend the door so it is straighter and matches the profile of the tub and hardtop.
My passenger door is like this so needs a firm push to close but I haven’t worked up the courage to try bending it yet! |
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8th Aug 2022 2:01pm |
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| the gamekeeper Member Since: 01 Jan 2010 Location: Surrey Posts: 96  
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Is there any play in the hinges as that will affect the swing of the door
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8th Aug 2022 3:48pm |
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| Leamreject Member Since: 19 Dec 2020 Location: Middle Earth - Leamington Spa Posts: 955
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A very tidy example….
 Ride like you stole it!!
If I’m not on a bike it’s because only a 4x4 will do… 2011 2.4 Puma 90 HT |
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8th Aug 2022 4:12pm |
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| Soulrider911 Member Since: 04 Jul 2022 Location: California Posts: 105  
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Thank you for all the replies, and suggestions. What Leamreject said is exactly what I was thinking. when I look closely at the door my assumption is the seal is causing the problem in some way or another. The catch is working... and I would like to not move it out as was stated that would make the gap even larger... if anything I would love to shrink the door gap. Oh, and that video is amazing and VERY telling... pushing on my seals... they are for sure not OEM... they are pretty tough rubber. I am inclined to try some new OEM seals... I have a strong suspicion that will really help 1989 Defender 90 2022 Defender 110 SE DIY’er | Always learning |
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8th Aug 2022 4:55pm |
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| Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 438
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Fit new Genuine door seals and new Genuine door catches in doors with unworn strkers and hinges. With this setup the doors will click closed with a gentle shove. There is no other way
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8th Aug 2022 5:52pm |
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| Leamreject Member Since: 19 Dec 2020 Location: Middle Earth - Leamington Spa Posts: 955
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On this topic I would strongly agree Ride like you stole it!!
If I’m not on a bike it’s because only a 4x4 will do… 2011 2.4 Puma 90 HT |
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8th Aug 2022 6:25pm |
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| Soulrider911 Member Since: 04 Jul 2022 Location: California Posts: 105
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Thank you, this makes sense... so now decision time. My doors are OK, they have some dents, and one has a lot of rust inside, the glass is chipped in both, and there are other little issues. I can buy fully built-up doors that include EVERYTHING. I am almost thinking rather than buying all these individual parts...knowing I still need some rust work done, I think it would be wiser to go with these fully galvanized doors: https://www.sp-4x4.com/BDA710020GALV_Pair_...jwp870.htm
I have talked extensively with them and these are the best you can get for a Defender  1989 Defender 90
2022 Defender 110 SE DIY’er | Always learning |
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8th Aug 2022 6:41pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3206  
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My 1988 90 had the same problem. When I removed the seal that is riveted to the sill, it made a huge difference to how the door closed. I could also adjust the latch more inwards, so door sat better with the tub. Probably the door camber as stated earlier. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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8th Aug 2022 8:59pm |
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| Soulrider911 Member Since: 04 Jul 2022 Location: California Posts: 105
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Which seal is riveted? On mine I can just pull the whole thing off? 1989 Defender 90
2022 Defender 110 SE DIY’er | Always learning |
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8th Aug 2022 9:33pm |
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