 | Home > Wheels & Tyres > Tyres rubbing on full lock |
 
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| Cubflyer Member Since: 25 Sep 2021 Location: Suffolk Posts: 278   
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Hi folk
Got a 300 Tdi Defender 90 fitted with Mitchelin Latitude 235/85/R16's and I've noticed a rubbing/grating sound on full lock. Just checked the tyres and they are just rubbing on the Radius arms. I'm presuming I need to fit spacers to stop this issue (or change the tyres or don't apply full lock  ).
All comments greatfully received including best makes / sizes / suppliers and results etc Many thanks from a very sunny warm Norfolk. John 2010 Defender 90 300Tdi CW (White/1994) 2021 Defender 90 300Tdi SW (Blue/1994) |
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26th Mar 2022 2:22pm |
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| I Like Old Skool Member Since: 23 Feb 2015 Location: Manchester Posts: 762 
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Just to add, the easiest way to do this is to jack up the front axle and drop it into stands then with the keys in the ignition to release the steering lock you can pull the wheels from lock to lock by hand with the engine off which speeds up the job enormously.
The bolt is threaded through the steering knuckle with a locknut on the back that also holds the shield  |
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26th Mar 2022 2:44pm |
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| Cubflyer Member Since: 25 Sep 2021 Location: Suffolk Posts: 278
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Hi ... Thanks for your prompt reply
Just looked underneath, I presume it's this bolt (seen from the front) I adjust once I've slackened off the lock nut.  Click image to enlarge Not sure if it will be seized on a 25 year old girl but won't know till I've put some WD on and tried 
Thanks again John 2010 Defender 90 300Tdi CW (White/1994) 2021 Defender 90 300Tdi SW (Blue/1994) |
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26th Mar 2022 3:30pm |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 552 
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That's the one. Remember to loosen the lock nut first. Use lots of penetrateing oil over a number of days. Try a loose/tight/loose/repeat action to try and brake the rust. As it starts to move add more penetrating oil!
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26th Mar 2022 5:24pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1736
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^^^^^^^^^
Note a lot of people use WD40 thinking it’s a penetrating oil, unfortunately it’s not, where as plusgas is and easy available. Even a few drops of diesel is better than WD40 for freeing up nuts and bolts. |
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26th Mar 2022 5:47pm |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 552
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Personally, at the moment, I use plusgas because of recommendations. However, I have just ordered some acetone as I have some automatic transmission fluid (used to have a auto RRC) and I am going to try the 50/50 acetone/ATF mix.
I must admit that heat is my preferred method, but not with seals and the like nearby. I have just refurbished my swivel pin housing and one had a broken steering stop bolt in it. I cleaned the housing using electrolysis then applied heat to the housing before trying to remove the screw. I managed to get the screw out by unscrewing via the locknut, which was seized to the screw thankfully! |
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26th Mar 2022 6:22pm |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 176  
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John, from you picture, I believe you are missing the lock stop bracket (part number TAU100170).
The bolt that you are trying to adjust is supposed to contact the lock stop bracket at full lock, and that is not happening in your case 
Somebody has had the swivel ball out at some point on your truck, and didn't bother to put the bracket back when reassembling. /Mat |
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26th Mar 2022 6:55pm |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 552
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Matt, I am not sure that all of the Defenders were produced with the plate you are referring to. I would be happy for someone to confirm or correct this.
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26th Mar 2022 7:27pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857 
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Correct, some have them, some don't. I've never figured the rationale.
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26th Mar 2022 8:06pm |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 176
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Ah, well, I have learned something new again today then. Ignore my previous post then if not relevant.
/Mat |
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26th Mar 2022 8:29pm |
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| Cubflyer Member Since: 25 Sep 2021 Location: Suffolk Posts: 278
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Hi guys ... Must admit I thought from previous pictures I was puzzled when I looked underneath I didn't see a form of "Striker plate" for the bolt head.
They are not expensive .. so is it worth fitting them or not ? ... comments welcomed as always. Thanks John 2010 Defender 90 300Tdi CW (White/1994) 2021 Defender 90 300Tdi SW (Blue/1994) |
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26th Mar 2022 11:41pm |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 552
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John, having just done my swivels I was in a similar predicament. I don't like the thought of the bolt just striking the flange of the swivel ball and was going to get some. However I had reassembled them and the bolts seem to be the correct length for the thickness of the swivel ball and axle case together and could not see a part number for a longer bolt, so decided to leave it.
If you do get these could you measure the thickness of them and post it up here as I would be interested to know. I hope you're bolt frees up.and if it does and it will come out fully (I can't remember if there is enough room to take it out with the swivel pin housing fitted) perhaps it may be worth giving it a coat of antiseize grease? I know I really wasn't looking forward to getting the broken one out of mine but managed it as I had swivel assembly in bits. Some images of what I had to deal with! I am sure yours won't be this bad, but you can understand why I needed heat! Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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27th Mar 2022 4:41am |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 176
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All 7 swivel to axle bolts have the same length. Either you use washers or you use the lock stop bracket as a washer. But not the bracket + washer. Simple.
/Mat Click image to enlarge Last edited by MatLandy on 27th Mar 2022 6:26pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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27th Mar 2022 8:43am |
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| I Like Old Skool Member Since: 23 Feb 2015 Location: Manchester Posts: 762
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Is it done yet?
Bolts should be removed and reassembled with plenty of grease. Be careful not to get your lubricant/spray releasing oil of choice on the brakes. I set mine quite close so still get an occasional rub, mostly when reversing as this pushes the axle over slightly, but nothing to worry about if you want to keep the best turning circle possible. If it is bad or continuous it should be an MOT fail as classed as wheels fouling chassis/bodywork I think. |
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27th Mar 2022 12:07pm |
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