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big110



Member Since: 02 Nov 2016
Location: Sweeden
Posts: 342

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Keen on Galvy rear tub cappings…difficult project?
I love the series look against my keswick green and I’m
Hoping that the removal of the rear tub cappings isn’t too technical. I’ve searched eBay but haven’t seen much. Appears that the rear two corner caps are as simple as drilling out rivets and removing. My question arises around the tub cappings. I do have a safety devices external cage that goes through the roof so ideally not have to FULLY remove the roof.

Just looking for some input as I search the deep web and of course this site!
Post #928722 6th Nov 2021 3:38am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3206

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Correct, the vertical corner capping are 'simply' removed by drilling out the rivets (care that the drill bit is not too long especially if you you have speakers, covers, trim and the like behind, so you do not go through them as well. However, after drilling the rivets, you will find that you would need a bit of persuasion for them to come out, as at the top they go underneath the horizontal cappings. But doable.

For the horizontal cappings, I cannot see how you can take them off without at least removing the sides and the rear door. To remove the sides, you will have to lift the roof a bit, so would need to loosen the winsdscreen screws and the B pillars. The horizontal capping have to come off relatively in the vertical direction, and clear the flange on the tub. They are rivetted, bolted, and glued to the rear tub. After drilling the rivets, and undoing the bolts/screws, it will not come off without a fight to break the glue. I have removed 2 sets, and some heat helped to ease off the glue.

Once you remove them, be prepared for a shock from the bare aluminium. Good time to paint behind the cappings.

As for removing paint from the cappings, chemical dip is the best way to go. If sand blasting, make sure it is very gentle soda blast. My experience with galvanizing is that the nicer the finish of the steel before galvanizing, the nicer will be the finish after galvanizing. So if the steel is dull and matt before galvanizing, galvanizing finish will also be dull and matt. Same holds if the metal was nice and shiny before galvanizing.

A few pictures of my tub without the cappings on pg1 of my restoration thread.
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72365.html 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #928723 6th Nov 2021 5:46am
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Scotm



Member Since: 28 Feb 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 640

Scotland 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey
Post #928726 6th Nov 2021 8:36am
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jimbo55



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Midlands
Posts: 385

United Kingdom 
I replaced my tub cappings for galv ones from YRM and I have a full internal and external cage. Wasn’t the easiest of jobs, ended up unbolting the cage where it goes through the roof so I could lift the roof enough to slide the side pannels out and change the cappings that way. Once the side pannels are out it was really easy as it is just a few rivets that hold it all on. I left the rear door on as didn’t replace the small piece that goes under the hinge
Post #928771 6th Nov 2021 1:48pm
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