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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16858

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
This sounds bonkers and it is probably tempting fate to say, but since the onset of autumn I have had no re-occurrences of my failure to start problem.

This got me thinking about why it happens in the summer months more than autumn; what is different about starting? I then realised that one difference is that in the summer, I tend to open the driver's window whilst waiting for the heater plug light to extinguish, and in this weather I don't.

Can't be that, I thought, but I'll try anyway. Lo and behold, if I turn on the 'ignition' open the window, and try to start the engine, it tends to do the failure-to-start thing. If I don't open the window, it seems to start OK (having said this it will probably now always fail)!

So, bearing in mind that the window lift motor is a fairly high-current device, is it possible that a significant dip in battery voltage during the time when (presumably) the passive immobiliser is communicating with the key fob will result in passive immob problems? It seems possible to me.

Is anyone else out there who has had failure-to-start problems willing to try this (opening the window whilst the heater plus are on before starting) to see if it makes the problem worse?

Perhaps I am just losing my marbles!
Post #99112 10th Nov 2011 11:54am
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knodes85



Member Since: 20 Jan 2012
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 4

Australia 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
I’m plagued with a similar problem, specifically it cranks and tries to fire, but then is seemingly cut out by the immobiliser. If I try and start it after the initial "cut out" the start just turns, but it seemingly isn't delivered any fuel. The interested difference with mine is that the immobiliser light on the dash doesn’t illuminate full stop, and the alarm system doesn’t appear operational at all. It’s in at the dealer, but they can’t work out how to fix it.

Has anyone had the same symptoms in relation to their alarm and found the start-up issue was experienced?
Post #118315 25th Jan 2012 11:11am
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Fez110



Member Since: 16 Mar 2013
Location: Angola
Posts: 8

Reviving an OLD thread as this problem still seems to be around.

I've got a 2011 Defender, less than 3500km on the clock, and have faced the SAME problem since new. Some times (mysteriously) the car doesn't crank and only some of the lights on the dash come on - the coil light incidentally doesn't come on. Also the temp gauge goes into the red and stays there.

When I remove the cover to the fuse box (under the passenger seat in my LHD defender) and wiggle the small grey relay (the 3rd one from the back) everything works again - coil light comes on and car starts like a champ.

I've replaced the relays and still no luck. Any ideas?
Post #233915 8th May 2013 10:03pm
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2586

South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Fez110 wrote:
I've replaced the relays and still no luck. Any ideas?



Check your battery terminals and tighten. --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
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Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #234101 9th May 2013 2:49pm
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sasha2001



Member Since: 02 Jan 2009
Location: New Zealand+ russia
Posts: 206

Russia 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Tonga Green
I had a similar thing on a td5 in that it would not start. It turned over but would not start and the temp gauge went over to the red while doing this, thought it might be the ecu but found a post on the Uk forum that recomened to clean main earth connections and ran a extra earth wire to another part of the chassis and it was Ok. not sure relevant here at all but it worked.
Post #234788 12th May 2013 5:53am
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Dieselhead



Member Since: 21 Oct 2012
Location: Pulborough. West Sussex
Posts: 552

cradgebank wrote:
I am currently having an intermitent starting problem, happens anytime, cold engine, hot engine.

Car cranks and fires then stops, turn the key again and appears to have a flat battery, wait 45 seconds and then Car fires up fine.

Went into dealer on Tuesday, tried it 20 times, never failed, drove home, failed at first attempt Big Cry

Any ideas ?.



Mine has started doing this. 3 times in the last week.

Appears also to have a flat battery. I lock it then unlock then alls fine

Will have to follow through this post & check everything Chris

2008 XS 110 2.4 Utility. Tonga Green
1953 Series 1 for restoration
1983 Mini Mayfair
2004 VW T5 Camper
2008 Diahatsu Sirion. Thats hers
Classic Bolens Garden Tractors
Post #234799 12th May 2013 7:58am
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Toplink



Member Since: 05 Dec 2010
Location: Somerset
Posts: 159

United Kingdom 
May be of some use.

http://www.defender2.net/forum/post53350.html#53350 Its never over in my land rover.
2007 Defender HTop.
1952 Series One 80"
1977 Muir-Hill 111.
2014 Triumph Tiger800xc
1999 Discovery 2 td5
1982 Ransomes TSR300D.
2002 Yamaha XT600e.
2010 Freelander2 (the wifes)
2008 John Deere X140
Post #234843 12th May 2013 11:23am
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QP9166



Member Since: 10 Oct 2012
Location: Sarawak
Posts: 1

Malaysia 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HCPU Stornoway Grey
Won't crank when really hot
Mine is a 2011 MY 2.4, assembled in Malaysia, no immobiliser installed.
The issue I have is, when car is really hot after a long drive, it won't crank. Battery is good, clamps tight, earth checked and rechecked, had a push-to-start button wired to starter relay, had starter motor rebuilt, solenoid replaced.
Problem started about 1 year ago, happened intermittently for a couple of months then went away.
It came back suddenly last week, when I did a long drive with lots of steep hills.
Nothing happens when I turn the key. All other electrical systems seem fine.
The common factor is, when car is really toasty, like after several hours continuous driving, but no indication of overheating. Trying to start results in nothing, no click, no crank.
A roll-start (in reverse gear, rolling downhill) got it firing easily. Reached destination after 10 minutes, refused to start again.
After cooling down about 90 minutes, started effortlessly, like nothing was wrong at all, and has been fine since.
Post #801875 12th Nov 2019 5:44am
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Nick13



Member Since: 18 Oct 2021
Location: Kilkenny
Posts: 13

Ireland 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Zermatt Silver
Sorry to restart that thread but I'm in the same wagon as you lot!!๐Ÿ˜‚
As Blackwolf said: no starting, no lights but the battery one, temp gauge to the max , and no cranking!!
Starter motor 4 month old, switches new, battery new!
Any idea ??
Thank you
Nick
Post #939430 25th Jan 2022 3:22pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16858

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
As a first step check that all the relays under the right-hand front seat have really good connections, a loose connection in either the ignition relay or starter relay can cause these symptoms. I put a little bend in the spades of each relay to make sure that the connectors are really tight since it was easier than trying to squeeze the female part of the connector which is, of course, in the relay socket.

I did in the end find that disabling the passive immobiliser stopped the driver's window phenomenon described in my original post, and I remain convinced that either a dip in battery voltage or EMI from the window lift motor during the coil-to-fob dialogue was causing the problem. It remains repeatable when the PI is enabled.

The Puma has an exceptionally straightforward electrical system compared to most vehicles of the period, and yet it has incredibly poor electrical reliability, you only have to search the forum for starting issues, chafed wires, turbo actuator problems, etc. It would really scare me to own a New Defender, many orders of magnitude more electronically-complex, although I do get the impression that JLR's approach to QA and QC has improved, thankfully!
Post #939447 25th Jan 2022 4:20pm
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Nick13



Member Since: 18 Oct 2021
Location: Kilkenny
Posts: 13

Ireland 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Zermatt Silver
Thank you Blackwolf for your repli! I did check all the switches, fuses , earths, connectors behind the barrel switch are fine too !
The weird part was when the car was starting if I close the door the car would stop!????? Coincidence??
Post #939452 25th Jan 2022 4:41pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16858

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Now that is a new one! I'd say "coincidence" but with a Defender you never know!

I didn't think that the electric window could be the cause of my non-starting back in 2011 but the fact that it was 100% repeatable convinced me.
Post #939460 25th Jan 2022 5:48pm
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Nick13



Member Since: 18 Oct 2021
Location: Kilkenny
Posts: 13

Ireland 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Zermatt Silver
๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚ thanks Blackwolf, but not really helping!๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚
Could one of you have a pick or diagram of the main earth points on the landy by any chance??
Post #939474 25th Jan 2022 6:33pm
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