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Fellrunner



Member Since: 28 Sep 2014
Location: Wandering
Posts: 255

 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Corris Grey
How best to drill through carpet
OK, so perhaps a really numptie question, but I’m on a steep learning curve!

I’m looking to secure the ardsafe for the ardcase at the base of the rear of the cubby box in the footwell of the second seat row. I’m going to use rivnuts into the upright of the bodywork.

My question; do I just drill through the carpet (4mm pilot and then 9mm main hole), or should I remove the carpet first and, if so, how?

I know it’s a really noddy question, but I’d appreciate any help. If pertinent, there’s soundproofing underneath the carpet (not fitted by me.


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Post #906696 6th Jun 2021 7:43pm
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swt



Member Since: 24 Aug 2018
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 146

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
I always drill through the carpet to align the holes, but then generally lift it to add some paint to the cut edges. Otherwise you're increasing the risk of corrosion between fastener and body metal.
Post #906700 6th Jun 2021 7:50pm
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swt



Member Since: 24 Aug 2018
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 146

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
In my 2008 110 the carpet there is stuck down underneath the strip across the rear footwell. Lift the latter and you can peel up as much as necessary, using fresh adhesive if needed (often not the first time).
Post #906702 6th Jun 2021 7:55pm
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swt



Member Since: 24 Aug 2018
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 146

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
I've never fixed anything there: I have a vague recollection that the other side of the panel/void isn't very accessible. But I defer to someone more knowledgeable on that.
Post #906704 6th Jun 2021 7:58pm
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boxoftricks



Member Since: 06 Feb 2019
Location: Home Counties
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United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
Rivnuts will need the carpet lifted. I'd just use some short ss self-tappers.
Post #906722 7th Jun 2021 7:44am
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Fellrunner



Member Since: 28 Sep 2014
Location: Wandering
Posts: 255

 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Corris Grey
Thanks for your replies. I'm going to need to rivnut due to the weight of the ardcase and ardsafe (I suspect rivnuts will offer a little more strength than self tappers, but I could well be wrong). Next is to work how best to lift the carpet and then put it back down. I had soundproofing professionally done and then the carpet put back on top, would anyone know if that would typically be done with spray glue or double sided tape?
Post #906749 7th Jun 2021 9:45am
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L90Andy



Member Since: 29 May 2014
Location: Stratford-Upon-Avon
Posts: 716

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 SW Zambezi Silver
Not sure how useful this tip will be in this case, but having just finished building a camper van, the best way I found to put holes in carpet was to heat up an appropriate sized drill bit (blunt end) with a blowtorch, then dab it onto the carpet. It burns a perfectly circular hole and seals the edges at the same time Thumbs Up Instagram: l90andy

2006 Land Rover 90 TD5 CSW Silver Edition

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Post #906752 7th Jun 2021 9:53am
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rockster57



Member Since: 15 Nov 2014
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 937

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
To be honest I feel rivnuts aren’t suitable for this purpose. You’re fastening down a pretty serious lump of metal in the cabin. In the event of even a low speed collision that will rip out no problem and fly about wherever. HUGE potential for a KSI. A 30mph pen will pierce your eyeball. A 30mph lump of metal like the ardcase will pierce your skull and come out the other side. I recommend beefing your fastening method a bit more with some plating on the underside. Forget rivnuts, just drill holes for 8.8 bolts or stronger and fasten all the way through.

Last edited by rockster57 on 7th Jun 2021 11:47am. Edited 3 times in total
Post #906771 7th Jun 2021 11:41am
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rockster57



Member Since: 15 Nov 2014
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 937

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
L90Andy wrote:
Not sure how useful this tip will be in this case, but having just finished building a camper van, the best way I found to put holes in carpet was to heat up an appropriate sized drill bit (blunt end) with a blowtorch, then dab it onto the carpet. It burns a perfectly circular hole and seals the edges at the same time Thumbs Up


Awesome idea for carpet holes. Nice one Andy. I’ll be using this idea myself. Thank you. Thumbs Up
Post #906772 7th Jun 2021 11:42am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
swt wrote:
I've never fixed anything there: I have a vague recollection that the other side of the panel/void isn't very accessible. But I defer to someone more knowledgeable on that.

It's tricky behind each of the front seats as there's a narrow gap and then the back face of the battery box and fuse box enclosure. In the middle though, it's clear and is accessible from above if the cubby box and gearbox access panel are removed. Darren

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Post #906775 7th Jun 2021 11:53am
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Fellrunner



Member Since: 28 Sep 2014
Location: Wandering
Posts: 255

 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Corris Grey
rockster57 wrote:
To be honest I feel rivnuts aren’t suitable for this purpose. You’re fastening down a pretty serious lump of metal in the cabin. In the event of even a low speed collision that will rip out no problem and fly about wherever. HUGE potential for a KSI. A 30mph pen will pierce your eyeball. A 30mph lump of metal like the ardcase will pierce your skull and come out the other side. I recommend beefing your fastening method a bit more with some plating on the underside. Forget rivnuts, just drill holes for 8.8 bolts or stronger and fasten all the way through.


Thanks rockster, that's a really good point. I hadn't realised that rivnuts were so 'flimsy'.
Post #906777 7th Jun 2021 11:57am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16809

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
A Rivnut or other similar threaded insert fastener (Rivnut being a brand name) if correctly fitted is no more likely to pull through than a standard sized plain nut, however I would suggest that if you are concerned about the thing breaking loose that you either use large washers (mudguard washers or penny washers) behind the panel, or better still fit a backing plate behind the panel.

When driving I keep my pedal lock in the second-row footwell with a chain round one of the brackets for the second-row seat base so it can't go anywhere. In the unlikely event that I had a passenger in the second row, the lock would be in the rear buck.
Post #906800 7th Jun 2021 1:42pm
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jpboost



Member Since: 13 Apr 2021
Location: Gatwick
Posts: 374

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
AS above.

Don't get me wrong, safety is very much a valid and important consideration with these types of questions, but I'd have thought decent Rivnuts would be fine for this application.

I know the ally ones can be a bit light duty, but as above, a correctly fitted rivnut is not much different to a normal nut (of the same material).


Of course, we've all seen some scary installations over the years... large bass boxes held in with a couple of self tapping screws were always my bugbear..
Post #906802 7th Jun 2021 1:51pm
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rockster57



Member Since: 15 Nov 2014
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 937

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
“ I know the ally ones can be a bit light duty, but as above, a correctly fitted rivnut is not much different to a normal nut (of the same material). ”

Maybe so but I wouldn’t consider securing the case to an aluminium floor without anything to spread the load. Bolting through provides this additional option but a rivnut, nutsert etc doesn’t. In the current application its probably the substrate that will fail before the fastener. Granted, I’m no engineer but I’ve seen more than enough results of inadequately secured objects in road traffic collisions. Hence my cautionary note for the OP.
Post #906852 7th Jun 2021 8:06pm
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Fellrunner



Member Since: 28 Sep 2014
Location: Wandering
Posts: 255

 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Corris Grey
I’m now completely reconsidering storage location for the ardsafe. I can’t use the normal location of the front of the driver’s seat box due to a speaker being mounted there. I think perhaps that storing in a new storage drawer in the rear is likely the best solution so I’m researching drawer options since removing the rear folding seats; ideally ones that use the existing lashing points/holes so that I don’t need drill new holes. Interesting, the frontrunner option, with a carrying capacity of 150kg, appears to be secured down with rivnuts per the fitting instructions. I like the look of the TransK9 drawer and have sent them an email re how it secures to the rear load area.
Post #906856 7th Jun 2021 8:30pm
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