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corgi1



Member Since: 26 Feb 2017
Location: bucks
Posts: 440

England 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter Bow down
Post #900602 29th Apr 2021 7:40pm
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trailbear



Member Since: 14 Sep 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 401

United Kingdom 
As kids our job every summer was to paint the garden fence ( about 50mtrs ) inside and out ( another 50mtrs ) along with the garden shed ( and anything else that stood still long enough ) with a concoction of the original creosote, not the namby pamph stuff they call creosote now and engine oil.

It was a job that was dreaded each year by myself and my older brother ( 6 and 8 yrs old respectively )

The skin burns were awful, which was why we had overalls, gauntlets, goggles and hats.

I suppose nowadays the Woke crowd would call that child abuse / exploitation but back the it
was called character building Very Happy
Post #900612 29th Apr 2021 8:33pm
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Zed



Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: In the woods
Posts: 3014

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
 WARNING.
This post may contain sarcasm.
Post #900613 29th Apr 2021 8:46pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3997

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
corgi1 wrote:
DONT SHOOT ME DOWN BUT ....

whats the difference on an oil change if you either drop the oil via the sump plug or suck it out via the dipstick hole ???

Pete


The Puma drain plug has the amazing ability to fire the oil about 3ft horizontally which means positioning the drain pan is akin to those old black and white movies where a group of firemen with bedsheet would try to catch someone leaping from a burning building. Using the suction method should at least avoid that mess. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #900615 29th Apr 2021 9:03pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16871

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I don't really go for the dipstick tube method, I'd rather get the oil plus any sludge out of the low point of the sump. Plus if you have a magnetic drain plug you can recover the scrap metal from it, but it takes longer and is messier than finding a dipstick with a tube to do it.
Post #900631 29th Apr 2021 11:05pm
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kmac



Member Since: 07 Oct 2009
Location: Middlesex
Posts: 1294

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
You could fit an oil drain valve to reduce the "oil shooting out from the sump plug hole" issue

Such as this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fumoto-F-106-LC-1...Z31Q2CM5XK

Not sure if that fits but there are loads out there.

I have the Femco one fitted

http://www.drainplug.co.uk/compact_video.html
Post #900658 30th Apr 2021 8:55am
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wyvern



Member Since: 14 Dec 2009
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2070

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Firenze Red
I did an oil and filter change on the drive recently and can confirm that the Puma Oil drain hole will point the oil anyway but down ..
I understand that all landrover need to make their territory but this was a little excessive !

I also made a little error in buying the wrong oil filter as there are 2 types for the 2.2 ... mine was an early edition so needed the filter that goes in to the plastic cover so had to wait a few days for the correct one to be delivered ..

Having said that,the job was simple even for my humble skill level and ordering oils and parts on line was an easy process, even if a little messy.

As I am intending to keep the vehicle for a long term I am filling out the service book rather that tying to get this done on line.

Next service will see me attempting to do the differential oils and grease the UJ’s ...
slowly building up my skills !

Thumbs Up Poppy - TDCI (Puma) 110XS 2.2 - Camper conversion - see the build here - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56530.html
Elgar -TDCI(Puma) 110XS Dormobile - now sold
Devon & Cornwall 4x4 Response - DC126
Post #900660 30th Apr 2021 9:02am
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

Zed wrote:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VKHFZBUTA4k



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Post #900686 30th Apr 2021 11:06am
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trailbear



Member Since: 14 Sep 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 401

United Kingdom 
Well, I see why the steep prices for Defender servicing, £105 for the discounted filter pack ( Landrover brand ) alone
And thats without the oil. So add the oil £50 - £100 ish depending on what oil is used and they certainly creep
Up to the figures quoted 😳
Post #900723 30th Apr 2021 2:40pm
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jpboost



Member Since: 13 Apr 2021
Location: Gatwick
Posts: 374

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Totally agree.

If they're giving it a good check over alongside changing the oil/filters, then it should be on the ramp for the best part of 2 hours. Even at modest labour rates and trade parts prices, £350 isn't a vast amount of money for that service, particularly if that includes VAT (the OP doesn't mention VAT)


Of course if they're changing the oil/filters, using cheapest possible parts and not checking anything else, then it does look to be rather expensive.
Post #900734 30th Apr 2021 3:35pm
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trailbear



Member Since: 14 Sep 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 401

United Kingdom 
Yes it does include VAT and I will have to enquire as to the original Landrover filters.

Starting to look like that is the standard Indy price😳
Post #900739 30th Apr 2021 3:57pm
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trailbear



Member Since: 14 Sep 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 401

United Kingdom 
So, I am still deciding over whether to do the service myself or have my local chappie carry out the work with me supplying all the consumables.
I have always used quality oils and filters etc but what are the thoughts on the options from Opie Oils, one end of the scale is the Shell Helix ( most expensive ) or Millers Trident Professional ( cheapest ), what are others using?

This is the first service under my ownership, all previous landrovers have had mechanical lift pumps, are there any tricks for changing the fuel filter on this vehicle, I normally fill up, the fuel filter before fitting but is there anything that should be done for the Puma when changing the fuel filter?

Puma 2014 2.2.
Post #900822 1st May 2021 9:04am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1757

United Kingdom 
Re the oil. WSS-M2C-934-B Is the correct spec for a puma 2.2 as it has a DPF. Mine requires this and I have been using Millers XF Longlife C1 and it has performed very well over many years. Noting I change my oil every 6k miles anyway.. At £30 or less for 5 litres it’s a good price for a high spec oil.

Re fuel filter change, it’s less of an issue with the 2.2 due to the pump in the tank. I personally pre fill the filter with diesel, making sure the diesel is fresh and from a very clean container. You can also get a filtered funnel if hyper sensitive on the chance of getting contamination into the fuel system.
Alternatively you can not pre fill the fuel filter but turn the ignition to II and leave for say 20 seconds, then repeat this a few times. This should fill the filter from the tank. Then start the engine. I have not done this but have read on here that its a method some use.
Post #900834 1st May 2021 10:12am
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trailbear



Member Since: 14 Sep 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 401

United Kingdom 
Thanks, that exactly what I was looking for.
Like you I generally change the oil every 6 months. I have never personally used Millers oils
But have heard others say good things about it.

I will continue to fill the filter as you have described, just wanted to make sure
it could still be done ( not really sure why you couldn’t )
Post #900835 1st May 2021 10:38am
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trailbear



Member Since: 14 Sep 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 401

United Kingdom 
Can I ask where you buy the oil you have mentioned, Opie Oils have that but it
appears to be double the price you have mentioned 🤔
Post #900836 1st May 2021 10:41am
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