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hmmwv



Member Since: 06 Oct 2020
Location: Germany
Posts: 13

Germany 1991 Defender 110 2.5 TD HT Nato Green
19j // oil from turbo
I've got a bit of a problem with my 19j engine and was wondering if maybe somebody has some input for me on how best to proceed from here:

- on my last trip to the Alps I noticed a lot of blue smoke when coasting down a mountain
- during a checkup I noticed excessive play in the turbo charger

So I figured I'll rebuild the turbo, as new turbos are really expensive for the 19j and I can't even find a CHRA for the TB02 fitted to these engines. I ordered a rebuild kit and rebuild the turbo last week.

- first test drive on level ground (~30km): no issues
- test drive to local "mountain" (~40km): no issues
- coasting down the mountain: blue smoke (so apparently I didn't solve the issue)
- a couple of km later, I noticed a burned smell coming from the engine
- oil coming out of the boost hose (on turbo charger side and on inlet manifold side)
- checked turbo play: already increased again
- figured I drive home slowly to investigate further
- after another 20km I got stuck in traffic. Suddenly during idle, the engine apparently got a big gulp of oil and started going through. Luckily I was able to stop it after 1-2s
- I disconnected the boost hose and limped home in natural aspirated mode. Considerable amount of oil coming from the now open turbo charger (I've attached an improvised catch can).



Click image to enlarge



In conclusion: My rebuild turbo lasted not even a 100km and is now even worse than before Thumbs Up

So either I did something wrong during the rebuild (also I'm not sure what I could have done wrong - and it was fine for the first ~80km) or (more likely) there's an underlying issue that I need to solve!

My theory is, that there might be so much blowby pressure, that there's too much pressure in the turbo oil return pipe and the oil can't properly return from the turbo and is trapped in there? But I'm not sure how to test this...

Not sure rebuilding again myself makes any sense (in case I did something wrong) and before I fork out a lot of money for new turbo (cheapest rebuild turbo I can find is still 270 pound + shipping etc.), I want to make sure that I don't brake it again on the first day!

Also: I want to replace the engine with a TDI as soon as possible. The original plan was to go to England for it, as engines are cheaper than in Germany and there's more expertise with this conversion. But thanks to COVID currently it's not an option...and in the current state I can't drive the car there anymore...

Any ideas on how to properly diagnose what's wrong and (ideally) how to fix it cheap, so the engine lasts another season before I can do the TDI conversion?[/list]
Post #890499 10th Mar 2021 6:11pm
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Sicastle71



Member Since: 21 Aug 2019
Location: West Lancs
Posts: 126

England 1999 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Alaska White
Check the air filter for blow by they can breathe heavily from the engine and coat the filter in oil mist to be honest sounds like the engine may have excessive blow by compounded from having to work harder at altitude
Post #890501 10th Mar 2021 6:27pm
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hmmwv



Member Since: 06 Oct 2020
Location: Germany
Posts: 13

Germany 1991 Defender 110 2.5 TD HT Nato Green
The blowby system was already modified by the previous owner:
- there's a T junction after the breather cap
- on hose is going to the air hose, after the air filter
- on hose is going to a catch can

There's some oil in the inlet hose before the turbo, but it looks more like deposits from oil mist, rather than excessive amounts of oil flowing through it.

I also ran the engine without the inlet air hose attached to the turbo and it still spits massive amounts of oil, so it's definitely not coming from the blowby gases...

Blue smoke is only visible when coasting down the mountain, not during normal driving (on sea level), but the oil leakage is (now) under all conditions - not just on a mountain. And when the engine started going through, it was in idle. So it was definitely not working hard in that moment.
Post #890506 10th Mar 2021 6:37pm
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Sicastle71



Member Since: 21 Aug 2019
Location: West Lancs
Posts: 126

England 1999 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Alaska White
Could be excessive blow by pressure causing the oil seal to fail in the turbocharger. What the blow by like from the oil cap??
Post #890517 10th Mar 2021 7:11pm
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hmmwv



Member Since: 06 Oct 2020
Location: Germany
Posts: 13

Germany 1991 Defender 110 2.5 TD HT Nato Green
Quote:
What the blow by like from the oil cap??


How do you test it?
Post #890628 11th Mar 2021 7:04am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3208

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
To check for blow by, just remove the cap (where you fill in the engine oil) from the top of the engine while the engine is running and hot.

It is normal to see some white smoke puffing out. I do not have any videos to share, but mine was puffing white smoke from the engine filler cap more than the tail pipe, and the turbo is still very good condition.

Please note that it is normal for turbos to have side to side play. They actually should have side to side play as the turbine shaft should float on oil. What they should absolutely not have is axial play (try to pull the turbine in and out). You should not feel any play there.

Your picture shows that the top hose clip on the turbo boost pipe to manifold is a bit loose. Or you loosened it later?

Are you sure it is the oil from the bearing, or could it be the diaphram on the injection pump that is split and is pumping diesel into the compressor? This is also common, especially on ever run and idle as there will be more fuel pressure that boost pressure.

I am restoring a 19J right now: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic76287.html
Honestly, I would not change it with anything else.. as daily drivers I have other options. Once the restoration is complete, it will be just a toy, and if it breaks down, it is more playing fun. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #890687 11th Mar 2021 11:11am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3208

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Which 19J engine version do you have? There were some changes. I have made up that the ones that have the breater hose from the back of the camshaft to the back side of the rocker cover are the later ones and more reliable.

The earlier 19Js had the breather from the back of the camshaft to go to the filler cap, and the filler cap had another hose going to the air filter intake. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #890691 11th Mar 2021 11:15am
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hmmwv



Member Since: 06 Oct 2020
Location: Germany
Posts: 13

Germany 1991 Defender 110 2.5 TD HT Nato Green
Thx for the replies.

I've checked again today. There seems to be no issue while the engine is cold. One I let the engine warm up a little (5-10 minutes in idle), I get oil coming from the turbo.

Here's a short video for better reference:
https://youtu.be/Amfbq-mC_aY

I have disconnected the boost hose to the injection pump; so it's not diesel coming from the pump.
I have disconnected the air filter hose including the blowby intlet part; so it's not coil coming from the breather system and it's not caused by a blocked air filter.


Click image to enlarge


So that leaves 2 options in my options:
- The engine is fine, but I did something wrong during the TC rebuild and the oil is coming from the normal TC bearing lubrication. I checked the play again: some radial play, no axial play. If so: any ideas on what's wrong?

- There is an issue with the TC oil return pipe. Either it's blocked somehow or the gas pressure coming from the engine is too high and the oil can't properly drain is thus overflowing the turbo.

Unfortunately I can't unscrew the pipe while the turbo is fitted. (or am I just too stupid to do it?).
That leaves cutting the bit of flexible hose that is connecting the pipe to he block and let the oil drain into a bucket.

I've checked with the oil filler cap removed and the oil dip stick pulled, to allow for better engine breathing, but couldn't detect any improvement.


How would you proceed? Do you think it's a turbo issue (and solved with a (professionally rebuild turbo) or is it just a symptom from a bigger issue?

Quote:
Which 19J engine version do you have?

According to the block number, it's an early 19j, before they introduced the improvements.

Quote:
Honestly, I would not change it with anything else.. as daily drivers I have other options. Once the restoration is complete, it will be just a toy, and if it breaks down, it is more playing fun.

For playing around, the engine is fine. Although very underpowered when driving mountain passes in the Alps.
But the longterm plan for this 110 is to build it out as an overland truck and drive through Africa for a year or two, and I think the 19j is simply to unreliable for that.
Post #890968 12th Mar 2021 3:33pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3208

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
That is quite a bit of oil leaking past the compressor oil ring. And you cannot be sure how much is leaking into the turbine side.

The dipstick tube seems like not blowing any blow by, so looks like engine is good.

If the drain pipe from the turbo is blocked, I would imagine you have more leakage from the turbo when cold, due to the higher viscosity (cannot drain too fast). But you have more leakage into the compressor when the oil is thinner. Side note, I personally used 15W40 oil.


What was the initial reason for refurbishing the turbo?
Did you use a quality repair kit?
I have never refurbished landrover turbos, but did a few others, mostly kkk. I always mark the compressor with the turbine shaft so that it goes back in same relative position. How was the turbine shaft? 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #891023 12th Mar 2021 9:17pm
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