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The wildest man in town



Member Since: 25 Oct 2020
Location: Boras
Posts: 29

Sweden 1999 Defender 110 Td5 PU Coniston Green
Thanks!
So it's not broken then. That's a relief. Don't think it jumped. Unless it can do so very easy and without noise.

Is there any way to reduce compression or should I force it? Right now when turning 1/4 turn, which is all I have space for, it bounces back. Would it be wise to remove the injectors again and put them back in with the same washers?
Post #866264 9th Nov 2020 1:26pm
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The wildest man in town



Member Since: 25 Oct 2020
Location: Boras
Posts: 29

Sweden 1999 Defender 110 Td5 PU Coniston Green
Removed 4/5 injectors. The 5th one is not coming out bc cam shaft is in the way and still can't turn engine clockwise. Any ideas?
Post #866308 9th Nov 2020 5:25pm
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Sicastle71



Member Since: 21 Aug 2019
Location: West Lancs
Posts: 126

England 1999 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Alaska White
Jack up a front wheel until it’s just off the ground then put in gear and rotate wheel clockwise should turn the engine over without having to touch the crankshaft nut and struggle hope tht helps it’s how I did mine 👌
Post #866315 9th Nov 2020 6:13pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16863

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
How many injectors do you actually have in place and clamped down at the moment? Your springback problem may be worse if you only have one cylinder which has compression and is on the compression stroke (normally there would be at least one other on the power stroke).

I recently did this job on by high-mileage Disco2 and had no problems turning the engine as required using a socket and ratchet on the crankshaft pulley. I took each injector out in the order that involves minimal turning of the camshaft until they were all out. Then I sorted out the seats, checked each cylinder with a syringe for fuel ingress with the piston on TDC, cleaned the injectors and prepared them for refitting, then installed them using the same minimal turning sequence I used to take them out. Then I adjusted the tappets in the minimal turning sequence, then rechecked them. At no time did I have any specific problem turning the engine as I needed to. Frankly I am surprised that you engine has good enough sustained compression to behave as you describe, generally if you pull it round against the compression and hold it for a short while before letting go for another pull there will have been enough blowby to reduce or eliminate springback. Is it possible that you allowed fuel to leak into the cylinder that you have completed? If so this may well increase the compression significantly, and could even hydraulic lock the engine before TDC is reached.

If you are really concerned, two things you could consider are taking out the injector you have just put back in to check for fuel ingress and to check that you can then turn the engine over with no compression. If you do this you would need at the very least a new copper sealing washer for the injector you have taken out again (but you might get away reusing the same O-ring).

Alternatively you could remove the heater plugs to decompress the four cylinders which have them, but this could be a can of worms since the heater plugs are hard to access, difficult to remove, and of course there are only four so one cylinder can't be decompressed by this method.
Post #866320 9th Nov 2020 6:27pm
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Sicastle71



Member Since: 21 Aug 2019
Location: West Lancs
Posts: 126

England 1999 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Alaska White
Yes very true but was unsure eligibility he is just using a short ratchet and teaching down from the slam panel it can be awkward that way as not much mechanical advantage
Post #866353 9th Nov 2020 7:58pm
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The wildest man in town



Member Since: 25 Oct 2020
Location: Boras
Posts: 29

Sweden 1999 Defender 110 Td5 PU Coniston Green
Alright, I managed to turn the cam shaft enough to get the last injector out. Now the engine turns with ease.

Although I put new copper washers in before, I´ll take your advise and wait for new ones to show up before reinstalling the injectors again. Thanks for all help!!
Post #866373 9th Nov 2020 9:07pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16863

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
At least you know the engine turns freely without compression now. Thumbs Up

Perhaps you're lucky enough to have a motor with incredibly good compression!
Post #866413 10th Nov 2020 12:02am
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The wildest man in town



Member Since: 25 Oct 2020
Location: Boras
Posts: 29

Sweden 1999 Defender 110 Td5 PU Coniston Green
Is it a bad idea to take her for a test drive with the copper washers I replaced? I mounted them on the injectors and installed the injectors. Then without starting the engine, I removed the injectors. I was thinking I could install the injectors again and see if the issue is resolved.
New copper washers won't be here till next week...
Post #866702 11th Nov 2020 1:07pm
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The wildest man in town



Member Since: 25 Oct 2020
Location: Boras
Posts: 29

Sweden 1999 Defender 110 Td5 PU Coniston Green
Got the new copper washers today and installed them. Everything went well.
But now the engine doesn't ignite when I turn it on. The starter motor turns the engine and it sounds like it should. Just no ignition.
I've been doing the 5 pump fuel routine and also let the pump run for a good minute or two. But nothing.

Any ideas?

I should also mention that I installed an EGR blanking kit and a new MAF sensor while I was waiting for the new copper washers.

Thanks!
Post #867134 13th Nov 2020 6:39pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

you will find that injector need the engine tuning over in order that whey can prime with fuel oil part of process is the can operating plunger each one and also ecu operating the coil`s each one


you also may need to check none retune value in fuel filter head and same time air bleed too


WJN500110
Air bleed valve

https://www.britpart.com/all-parts/da3950




his none retune kit has a part missing i.e. the duck bill valve
Post #867145 13th Nov 2020 7:47pm
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The wildest man in town



Member Since: 25 Oct 2020
Location: Boras
Posts: 29

Sweden 1999 Defender 110 Td5 PU Coniston Green
Installed the air bleed kit from Britparts the other day. Also the no return valve. So they should be fine. But I read somewhere that the kit from Britparts wasn’t great. Original is preferred?
Post #867161 13th Nov 2020 8:58pm
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roel



Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

Netherlands 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Caledonian Blue
Did you reinstall the injector harnas and connected it at the front off the engine? (I forgot the last part Whistle )

I did the prime routine a few times and when starting took a little long. It didn't start the first time. Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)
Post #867163 13th Nov 2020 9:00pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

The wildest man in town wrote:
Installed the air bleed kit from Britparts the other day. Also the no return valve. So they should be fine. But I read somewhere that the kit from Britparts wasn’t great. Original is preferred?



ok cross that off the list
Post #867170 13th Nov 2020 9:23pm
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The wildest man in town



Member Since: 25 Oct 2020
Location: Boras
Posts: 29

Sweden 1999 Defender 110 Td5 PU Coniston Green
roel wrote:
Did you reinstall the injector harnas and connected it at the front off the engine? (I forgot the last part Whistle )

I did the prime routine a few times and when starting took a little long. It didn't start the first time.


Yes Smile I even double checked.
I'll try to get it going again tomorrow. Read about another starting procedure where you give it full throttle..

https://www.web-rover.co.uk/nav.php?p=td5kb/fuelpurge
Post #867178 13th Nov 2020 10:03pm
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MadTom



Member Since: 10 Sep 2013
Location: Olomouc
Posts: 572

Czech Republic 1999 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Baltic Blue
Once I have changed fuel filter head od 90, because the old one broke due to corrosion. I have use Britpart fiter head, but it was wery hard to start the engine. After one week of troubles, I just took the plastic valves from old head and replaced the Britpart new ones. Problems solved for next 4 years now. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo Smile
Post #867225 14th Nov 2020 8:27am
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