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roche1800



Member Since: 07 Apr 2020
Location: derbyshire
Posts: 246

Threaded Bolt Inserts
So prior to a complete under seal I have removed mudflats and brackets (plus side runners to be powder coated), the issue I am now faced with is because the bolts were so seized some have snapped and some simply turned what appears to be threaded inserts in the chassis.

They need to be replaced, I was thinking of replacement inserts for RS Components, has anyone had any experience and does anyone have any tips for me?

I have attached a screenshot of the type you knock and not necessarily the exact size.

I intend to fit and put replacement bolts in and tape up so then can be removed to refit mudflats...

Many thanks in advance.


Click image to enlarge
Post #840958 1st Jul 2020 11:20am
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Stacey007



Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3696

United Kingdom 
When I did mine


I drilled and fitted new rivnuts for the reason you said Smile

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/tool-conne...zYEALw_wcB


You basically squeese in a new thread to bolt to, you don't actually need the tool it can be installed with tools you have but easier. My kit was from ebay around £20

Post #840962 1st Jul 2020 11:28am
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Paul1275s



Member Since: 21 Apr 2019
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 80

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 SW Belize Green
Yup, bought a kit off ebay, has been ace, just make sure you drill the holes for the inserts as close to their diameter as possible. 2003 Defender 110 TD5 SW
2003 Caterham 7
2006 Mini Cooper GP
Post #840974 1st Jul 2020 12:03pm
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Notyalc



Member Since: 27 Jul 2018
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 142

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
Re: Threaded Bolt Inserts
roche1800 wrote:
So prior to a complete under seal I have removed mudflats and brackets (plus side runners to be powder coated), the issue I am now faced with is because the bolts were so seized some have snapped and some simply turned what appears to be threaded inserts in the chassis.

They need to be replaced, I was thinking of replacement inserts for RS Components, has anyone had any experience and does anyone have any tips for me?

I have attached a screenshot of the type you knock and not necessarily the exact size.

I intend to fit and put replacement bolts in and tape up so then can be removed to refit mudflats...

Many thanks in advance.


Click image to enlarge



They don’t knock in, that would never hold. You need a tool as said above or some ingenuity and strong arms.
Post #841118 1st Jul 2020 7:47pm
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RoddyK05



Member Since: 08 Apr 2015
Location: Inverclyde
Posts: 633

Scotland 2004 Defender 90 Td5 SW Yellow
You don’t even need to drill out the old insert, a quick dab with a hammer and punch and they pop through. This does however leave a hole slightly bigger than desired for the 6mm rivnut, but it still works. I did mine last week but only had to replace 3 of the six so I think I got lucky. The originals sit flush in the cross member but the replacements have a slight lip on them so they sit a wee bit proud. This can lead to dirty water running down the mudflap which has squeezed its way between the x member and the mudflap bracket. I imagine some dum dum or similar applied before bolting them together would solve that minor irritation. Or a bead of sealer along the seam on the inside?
Post #841147 1st Jul 2020 9:05pm
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Oldowner



Member Since: 26 Dec 2018
Location: South west
Posts: 603

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Aintree Green
At one time Land Rover used to put washers between mudflap bracket and outrigger / cross member to stop water being trapped between them and rotting the chassis.
Post #841171 1st Jul 2020 9:39pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

RoddyK05 wrote:
The originals sit flush in the cross member but the replacements have a slight lip on them so they sit a wee bit proud.


Just to say that you can get rivnuts in all sorts of different permutations if you shop around - stainless, hex shaped, smooth or with grooves, with external lips/flanges or without. The ones without - kind of like counter-sinking - sit just about flush with the external surface - though here the hole size is more critical to get them to set.

And if you have a few in different styles and sizes "in stock" then you've often the option of going up a size by drilling a slightly bigger hole.

Apols if you already know this. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #841195 1st Jul 2020 11:17pm
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roche1800



Member Since: 07 Apr 2020
Location: derbyshire
Posts: 246

Thanks all the info.

I know I have made a mess of at 2 or 3 on front mudflats so going up a size seems a logical option.

Can you just confirm that the front mudflats are round rivnut M8 with 2 each mudflat and the rear are hex rivnut M8 x 3 each mudflap.

Many thanks.
Post #841223 2nd Jul 2020 7:44am
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GREENI



Member Since: 22 Aug 2010
Location: staffs
Posts: 10367

United Kingdom 
Don't forget this site has all the top tips...

https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic8631.html
Post #841245 2nd Jul 2020 10:11am
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ak615



Member Since: 22 Aug 2018
Location: essex
Posts: 174

Rear mud flaps are m6
Screwfix do a set of rivnuts lots of different sizes which is quite handy

EASYFIX BRASS MIXED RIVET NUT HANDY PACK 250 PCS (1380J)
Post #841269 2nd Jul 2020 12:13pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16927

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
^^ The only snag with that type is that it really isn't easy to find hexagonal drill bits nowadays.
Post #841286 2nd Jul 2020 1:57pm
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kmac



Member Since: 07 Oct 2009
Location: Middlesex
Posts: 1294

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Apparently they also work with round holes
Post #841294 2nd Jul 2020 2:21pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

.... or you could get busy with a little file?

I say this because there have been a couple of places over the years where I've 'squared off' the holes that used to take self-tappers in order to fit square nylon inserts. This way, it's a better fixing for the screw, and also isolates the metals.

I'm talking about the sort of purple inserts that are used for the floor panel screws; or the smaller white ones used for the screws that attach the lower dash to the bulkhead.

That said, it's much easier to file away at a thin alu. panel than it is at a crossmember! Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #841297 2nd Jul 2020 2:32pm
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ak615



Member Since: 22 Aug 2018
Location: essex
Posts: 174

blackwolf wrote:
^^ The only snag with that type is that it really isn't easy to find hexagonal drill bits nowadays.


Hexagonal sheet metal punches are though

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0828SFCSB/ref....Eb0RYC7K8
Post #841317 2nd Jul 2020 4:34pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16927

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
The hex drill comment was meant as a joke Sad

And the punch in that link is for a circular hole. Laughing
Post #841320 2nd Jul 2020 4:59pm
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