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turnah

Member Since: 30 Sep 2018
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 40

Sorting leaks around body seals

Hi all, first post so a wee introduction at the same time.

Traded in my sensible car and picked up my first defender, a TD5 hardtop 90 a couple of months ago and have been stalking, picking up tips ever since.

So far I've had the security sorted out by someone who knows what he's doing and I've fitted the clutch mod, rear reverse camera, replaced the switches for courtesy lights so they work and added a new radio.

Lots more on my to-do list with an engine remap in the new year, vw 90 wiper switch mod, fix sticking wipers, new cubby box, slick shift and sound deadening on the list as the pay packets come in.

My knowledge of cars is zero, but I've bought a socket set and love tinkering and understanding how and why things work so hopefully this will keep me happy.

One thing I want to do over the Christmas break is sort out a couple of leaks, so I've got myself some sikaflex to sort the roof joins and gutters which is where I've identified the majority of the water is coming from (and ending up on my passengers knees).

My question: Water is also appearing from the seals around where the tub meets the body at the back and sides. What's the best thing to do with these? It looks like the foam is twisted on one of the leak areas and a wee bit perished in a few other places - both areas behind the back speakers are affected by the trickles which has rendered them inoperative so before buying some new speakers want to nip this in the bud.

From what I gather I could lift the shell and replace the seal, or some people have mentioned to fill with sikaflex over the seals. If doing the later would it be a pain if it had to come off at a later date for work? I was thinking of picking some up in black and filling in the gaps neatly and painting at a later date if it doesn't look right.

I've got a copy of the ingress manual and these two areas seem to be my only problem, but I'll be sealing other bits I get access to them to be safe.

Just want to treat it with respect and do things right rather than take any shortcuts so any advice would be appreciated! Any better methods would be welcome!

Thanks,
Michael

20th Dec 2018 11:20pm

foggydave

Member Since: 29 Nov 2012
Location: Midlands
Posts: 263

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Bonatti Grey

A cause of water ingress into the footwells is sometimes due to the water running off the gutter that runs below the windscreen under the bonnet and down the bulkhead inside the engine compartment. On the passenger side, this then seeps through the heater box to bulkhead seal and into the footwell. On the driver side, it would leak through the many access holes on the bulkhead.

It is called a Fender seal pt no LR 038612 price £10.21 inc Vat. I found the cheapest supplier was Land Rover themselves. It is the same part no for both n/s and o/s
It is very easy to fit and just pushes onto the wing flange inside the engine bay up against the bulkhead. I will try and post a picture later on

I would also recommend you go to this site as it is a great resource for locating part numbers and seeing exploded diagrams of all the assemblies. http://www.landroverworkshop.com/

Also I do have a spare copy of the Rave Disc (Full Land Rover workshop manual) Td5 and older models if you want it

Last edited by foggydave on 21st Dec 2018 1:13pm. Edited 1 time in total

21st Dec 2018 9:55am

donmacn

Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

Hi Michael - welcome to Defender ownership and the forum - an invaluable amount of information an help on here.

Dave, would definitely appreciate a picture. This is the first I've heard of these. I've found an online pic of them on an Australian site, but in their packets rather than on the car. I think I understand exactly what you've said, but a picture would be good.

Cheers

D

Edited to say: Michael - there's a couple of pics on my thread, linked below, to show how I put a bead of sealant between the sides and the tub. Not my original idea though, just something I picked up elsewhere.

I'd suggest new seals first, depending on the age of the car. I put sealant in because I know my seals were (relatively) new and obviously just needed some more help. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...

21st Dec 2018 10:18am

foggydave

Member Since: 29 Nov 2012
Location: Midlands
Posts: 263

Pictures as promised. The weather being appropriate to the subject

I used gutter sealer (because its black) to seal the fender against bulkhead as it still dripped a bit.

Click image to enlarge

21st Dec 2018 1:11pm

gazman

Member Since: 17 Aug 2015
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 652

foggydave wrote:
A cause of water ingress into the footwells is sometimes due to the water running off the gutter that runs below the windscreen under the bonnet and down the bulkhead inside the engine compartment. On the passenger side, this then seeps through the heater box to bulkhead seal and into the footwell. On the driver side, it would leak through the many access holes on the bulkhead.

It is called a Fender seal pt no LR 038612 price £10.21 inc Vat. I found the cheapest supplier was Land Rover themselves. It is the same part no for both n/s and o/s
It is very easy to fit and just pushes onto the wing flange inside the engine bay up against the bulkhead. I will try and post a picture later on

I would also recommend you go to this site as it is a great resource for locating part numbers and seeing exploded diagrams of all the assemblies. http://www.landroverworkshop.com/

Also I do have a spare copy of the Rave Disc (Full Land Rover workshop manual) Td5 and older models if you want it

If you could post a pic of that it would be great. As I was thinking of putting a old mudflap on the bulkhead! 2014 - current ..... 2003 defender td5 90 (my car)
2009 - current .... 2005 zx10r

21st Dec 2018 1:20pm

gazman

Member Since: 17 Aug 2015
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 652

Thanks that man!! You did that whilst I was doing my reply! 2014 - current ..... 2003 defender td5 90 (my car)
2009 - current .... 2005 zx10r

21st Dec 2018 1:21pm

frenchy

Member Since: 05 Feb 2012
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 133

These look great!!!
Seems places are low on stock....has anyone been able to locate any? 2000 D2 TD5 - ahhh bless
2006 D3 - no longer with us and sadly missed
1997 300tdi d90 - now with electrics that work!
- now with a brand new custom made soft top fitted
…...…...............….new chassis now all fixed and driving like new
2010 D4 alas no more, but a lovely colour (Nara)
2016 D4 battery magically fixed with NOCO charger

21st Dec 2018 1:41pm

donmacn

Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

As above, thanks Dave. If they'll contribute to minimising leaks etc, then they do look pretty good. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...

21st Dec 2018 2:26pm

foggydave

Member Since: 29 Nov 2012
Location: Midlands
Posts: 263

I live in Leicester so go to Sturgesses the main LR dealer. I bought one for the o/s last week. They got it in next day. As I said these were cheaper than buying from another supplier online. So go to your main LR dealer and they should be able to get one.

21st Dec 2018 2:56pm

turnah

Member Since: 30 Sep 2018
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 40

That's fantastic, I've just ordered a couple from Landrover Stockport - factory order but will be in to collect by 9am tomorrow at he same price you quoted. Every little helps!

As for the back I think I'll wait for the weather to improve and have a go at replacing the seals as they don't seem too pricey and see how i get on with the drips.

21st Dec 2018 4:25pm

oneten110

Member Since: 02 Jul 2011
Location: Wish I was still in France
Posts: 741

Reading this might save you some time and money.
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic7178.html

23rd Dec 2018 6:20pm

Yatesy

Member Since: 19 Jul 2018
Location: North West
Posts: 72

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Zambezi Silver

Just ordered these myself, have they solved the footwell issue?

2nd Jan 2019 12:40pm

foggydave

Member Since: 29 Nov 2012
Location: Midlands
Posts: 263

Worked a treat for me. Now perfectly dry. I did though put a run of bitumen gutter sealer between fender and bulkhead.

Note If it still leaks after fitting fender.
When fitting the fender the water which went straight into the engine bay is now flowing over the joint between the wing top and the bulkhead and could go into the driver's side footwell through a fixing hole or the grommet where the door electrics route if there is a gap in this joint.

Last edited by foggydave on 2nd Jan 2019 2:02pm. Edited 1 time in total

2nd Jan 2019 1:56pm

turnah

Member Since: 30 Sep 2018
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 40

I'm all dry up front too now, but I've sealed the roof and gutters as well as installing these so could be a bit of both helping.

2nd Jan 2019 1:59pm

Adammacky

Member Since: 28 Dec 2019
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 309

Anyone know where you can still get these fender seals? Links would be awesome!

18th Apr 2020 8:33pm

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