 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Body Alignment |
 
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471   
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Yeah, remove the rim to access the hardtop mounts, slacken them off and nudge the panel over, you will probably have to take the weight of the back door or make sure it's shut while you are doing it. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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28th Jun 2011 7:24pm |
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| defender75 Member Since: 06 Nov 2010 Location: Germany Posts: 219 
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So loosen the bolt and push up on the front?
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28th Jun 2011 9:13pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471
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Ah, I thought you were bringing the back inline but the procedure is basically the same for the front - once you've got the trim away it will be obvious what bolts you will need to loosen as there's not a lot holding the sides to the tub. Steve. Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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28th Jun 2011 9:18pm |
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| defender75 Member Since: 06 Nov 2010 Location: Germany Posts: 219
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Thanks
I figured I would back the front bolt out a bit and tighten the back one. Hoping not to break any plastic when removing the inside trim. |
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28th Jun 2011 10:20pm |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5028 
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Im doing this from memory and not from a puma, but i doubt there are differences
4 bolts in each lower corner of the sides with some around the door. Loads across the windscreen to roof and the sides to roof - i recall there are an extra couple on the sides at the rear door entry To be honest - i wouldnt bother and just leave it. There are seals at the top and bottom of the side (so side base to tub and to roof) Mike |
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28th Jun 2011 10:43pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471
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Yep, loosening the side panel front bolt and the mid angle bracket should enable you to nudge or pull the front bottom corner in a bit. Don't shove too hard as you run the risk of dents - you might find a bit of lift to the gutter at the rear of the door aperture will help but it's a case of suck it and see. The trim removal is more time consuming than difficult but it doesn't take that long, it's your choice as to whether the effort is worth it  You might find you need to replace one or two of the large grey firtree fasteners - it just depends how carefully you get them out. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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28th Jun 2011 11:10pm |
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| defender75 Member Since: 06 Nov 2010 Location: Germany Posts: 219
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It is low on the list of things I would like to do but still on my mind. Its the only gap that is terrible so I figured if it was easy I would do it. I figured take inside trim off. Loosen one bolt and tighten the other and I would be done but I am sure it won't be that easy. |
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28th Jun 2011 11:46pm |
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| defender75 Member Since: 06 Nov 2010 Location: Germany Posts: 219
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I guess so we are all clear. The side panel of the truck seems to have a smaller gap in the front and it gets bigger as you go back on the truck. That is what I am trying to fix.
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28th Jun 2011 11:49pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 4990
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It looks as though the seal has slipped back or is completely crushed at the front end - you may need a new one but it should bounce back again once the bolts have been loosened. Certainly worth having a go at sorting. Nothing ventured .........
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29th Jun 2011 7:51am |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471
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The lighter colour of your vehicle is probably making it more noticeable. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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29th Jun 2011 9:31am |
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| Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266 
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be careful not to damage the gasket/seal or it'll leak water in between the top and the tub
2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up. |
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29th Jun 2011 11:17am |
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| DefenderOfTheEarth Member Since: 09 Nov 2010 Location: Cornwall, UK Posts: 1304 
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I've got a bit of a crease down the nearside rear panel (just to the rear of the top of the wheelarch) about a foot long.
At first I thought it was just normal (it runs along a row of rivets) but now not so sure. Of course although under warranty, I have a feeling a query to the dealer would get laughed at. Dammit. Defender 110XS SW gone... now VW California 180 4 Motion. |
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29th Jun 2011 11:42am |
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