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rallysteve



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2196

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green
Buzweld Paint Impressions
When we rebuild the 90 we took the chassis back to bare steel with wire brushes, fully de-greased and used Buzweld RCP primer (2 coats sprayed by air fed gun) then Chassis in one (2 coats again).
We did the roll cage using the same method as were the axle casing (although these were shot blasted).

The finish was very good when applied but I have noticed that it is very easy to scratch or chip.

Whilst working on it today I have noticed that there is already substantial surface rust bubbling through all the paint on the main chassis rails. I know for a fact that there has not been any mechanical damage on these bits and the vehicle has only been on the road since April so not exactly much weather exposure!

Fair to say I am generally unimpressed with the longevity. The rust on my already rusty chassis on my 110 took longer to come back through after brushing on a bit of waxoyl without any prep and daily use!

Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale


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Post #806369 15th Dec 2019 9:40pm
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Doc P



Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: Midlands
Posts: 565

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Firenze Red
That’s interesting. They say it’s all in the prep, but you did much more than I was planning to do.

Might have to look at other options.
Post #806370 15th Dec 2019 9:43pm
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windy81



Member Since: 14 Mar 2018
Location: North Wales
Posts: 311

Wales 1992 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Firenze Red
why didn't you go with something that's been proven to work, tested to work and time served, like for example most of the Jotun range ? It's also cheaper in many cases.

For the ultimate protection, Baltoflake would have been unbeatable and not that more expensive.
Post #806378 15th Dec 2019 10:04pm
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pj2106



Member Since: 20 Dec 2012
Location: Huntingdon AKA The Shire
Posts: 1500

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
I have used this for about 3 years and had no problems

Re rust encapsulator first 2 coats

CiO chassis in one 1 coat

War 2-3 coats

I’ve always applied war over the cio as it provides a better protection for the hard paint underneath and prevents water ingress and a bit more resistant to scratches or chipping

I’d have a chat with craig Jones to see if he can give you any feed back? 2008 110 2.4 XS Utility (Hagrid)
2002 90 TD5 Hardtop (Sully) Sold
1998 300TDi D1 (Billy) Sold
Post #806396 15th Dec 2019 11:15pm
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rallysteve



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2196

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green
Thanks both. There are plenty of testimonials which give the impression that Buzzweld paint would work and could be easily obtained safely used/sprayed on a DIY basis. Hence why I went with this.

I am regretting not just getting the chassis galvanised now.

My impression was that chassis in one is suitable for use on its own. The use of the RCP primer was an additional layer of protection which should be stopping the rust breaking through on its own.

I can't see the point of using a chassis paint which is sold as being suitable for use as such without primer or top coat but then having to overcoat it with another product to get more than 9months of life from it.

Cheers,
Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale


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Post #806452 16th Dec 2019 1:43pm
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benniferj



Member Since: 20 Oct 2016
Location: Basingstoke
Posts: 361

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Oslo Blue
As mentioned about you should speak to Craig about it.

Buzzweld is a highly reputable protective paint and I know many many people who have had amazing results that are long lasting. If there is any insight into it, the company director will be able to give you it.

There are always many options but Waxoyl is dated and has its issues too, as does all of the other treatments. Straight Galv is not always the final answer either. Buzzweld is certainly a valid and very useable option!
Post #806567 17th Dec 2019 9:23am
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rallysteve



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2196

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green
I would be happy to discuss with Craig however there isn't much I can do about it now. Short of taking the vehicle totally back apart and getting everything blasted again before re-painting i am stuck with the corrosion.

I will probably sand back the worst of the corrosion and treat/recover with another product. The inside of the chassis it fully treated with Dinitrol which seems to be working well so the corrosion is just what is visible externally.

Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale


Mobile Diesel Heater Build Thread
Post #806605 17th Dec 2019 1:10pm
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Gloucesternige



Member Since: 17 Jan 2020
Location: In the garage
Posts: 114

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
Just my 2p here..

I am using Corroless paints from Arc-rite and I believe they are basically the same products? Anyway.. I have been specifically instructed by them that I should NOT use any primer with their chassis in one paint, which to them is known as QDR.

As a test piece I took a piece of VERY rusty steel, gave it a quick manual wire brush and then two air fed sprayed coats of the S primer with 10% thinner, leaving 12 hours between coats. That piece of steel has sat on my garden bench since December 13th and has not corroded whatsoever, not even the tell tale "blue rings" are appearing where the steel was heavily pitted.

I am very impressed with it. I shall use the QDR chassis paint and hopefully have as good results. Nige

Check out my You Tube channel
https://www.youtube.com/c/Defender90KeswickNigelsLandRoverchannel
Post #813617 4th Feb 2020 7:49pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3610

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
My experience doing the same as you on the cross member is that the finish is as tough as old boots. I used the gloss top coat rather than matte, but it get a lot of knocks, dings and dogs paws scratching it, and it still looks brand new when I clean it. Have a tbh at with them, if you did it recently could it be temperature related?
Post #813619 4th Feb 2020 7:52pm
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rockster57



Member Since: 15 Nov 2014
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 937

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
windy81 wrote:
why didn't you go with something that's been proven to work, tested to work and time served, like for example most of the Jotun range ? It's also cheaper in many cases.

For the ultimate protection, Baltoflake would have been unbeatable and not that more expensive.


Windy, as is the first time I’ve heard of Jotun Baltoflake, I was prompted to do a bit of googling. It looks a very interesting product. Any personal experience or know anyone who has tried it on a vehicle chassis?

I imagine application best done by specialists? Boatyards? Marine Engineering? I’m wanting to get my 110 chassis cleaned up/protected later this year so any further information welcomed. Thank you.

ps Apologies for the thread hijack but maybe this additional info might be of interest to Steve too?
Post #813681 5th Feb 2020 12:11am
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