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lightning

Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 2238

Thank you for the warning.
Bricks can indeed shatter suddenly but this was only a very slight raising of the tub probably a couple of CM before the bolt holes lined up.
Also l wasn’t going under the vehicle at all, and the wheels were still on.
I would still have been better using a piece of wood and will do next time.

31st May 2020 11:28am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16871

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Yes, sorry, I didn't want to sound critical. With the light weight you were lifting there is unlikely to be a problem but we don't want to lose you!

31st May 2020 12:47pm

Titan133

Member Since: 30 Dec 2016
Location: Dorset
Posts: 43

Re: 110 Mid-Crossmember Replacement

Intercept wrote:
As with many things LR, it started as a little job... The intention was to repair the electrolytic corrosion that had eaten away the aluminium around the body to chassis bolts under the 2nd row seats, adding some inter-metal insulation at the same time to prevent its recurrence. However, whilst doing that I found a 2" hole in the mid-crossmember which couldn't be ignored. Fortunately it is bolted to the chassis but a bit of googling revealed that replacement of this part wasn't much fun because the upstand brackets prevent it from being slid out/in. However, YRM and others sell a version with bolt-attached body brackets which means that the main part can be inserted without body removal. But you do need to remove the floor panel.

https://yrmit.co.uk/product/110-mid-crossm...-defender/

As I'd already spent a good few hours a while ago replacing all the floor fixings the floor removal was easy enough. The worst part of the overall job was undoing/cutting the 17 year old bolts holding the old member in place. After that the installation of the new part was very simple - all the bolt holes were in the right place. One slight complaint of the YRM kit is that some of the supplied bolts are a bit long - see photos, but overall I was impressed with the quality of the product.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

I’ve just ordered the YRM crossmember. Seats are out but I’m not sure which piece of floor needs to be removed and which bolts/fixings to remove to do that. Could you advise? ——————————
2004 110 TD5

26th Aug 2022 1:51pm

Intercept

Member Since: 27 Feb 2017
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 587

2002 Defender 110 Td5 Black LE Java Black

The floor section to remove is the flat plate where the 2nd row passengers' feet go when they are sitting in the 2nd row seats. The fixings are large flange headed screws that tap into plastic "rawlplugs" beneath. The heads on these screws are normally rusted into a state that makes it necessary to grind a slot to accept your biggest flat screwdriver. Therefore they will need to be replaced.

26th Aug 2022 6:31pm

rustandoil

Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 664

2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Bonatti Grey

The rear floor screws are cheaply available in stainless steel.....

26th Aug 2022 6:57pm

excossack

Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5738

1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue

I ended up drilling out my screws for the floor. Maybe with a grinder I could cut off the plastic bits from underneath.

I also replaced;
screws with stainless
plastic bits the screws go into
the rubber strip around the floor plates
the bolts for the seat brackets as mine had rusted 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock

27th Aug 2022 8:42am

rustandoil

Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 664

I didn't have the plastic socket things on my rear front..
I had those "spire nut" clip type fasteners

27th Aug 2022 1:22pm

excossack

Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5738

I sit corrected, I did have the metal spire nut thingies. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock

27th Aug 2022 1:57pm

Titan133

Member Since: 30 Dec 2016
Location: Dorset
Posts: 43

Many thanks about the replies concerning the floor panel. I’m going to try and remove it tomorrow (BH Monday). ——————————
2004 110 TD5

28th Aug 2022 10:05am

Titan133

Member Since: 30 Dec 2016
Location: Dorset
Posts: 43

This morning I finally found time to remove the floor panel, prior to replacing the rear crossmember. I’ve attached a few photos after floor removal and some wire-brushing of the chassis and surrounding items. A few questions though:-

If I understand it correctly, I need to cut the top off the bracket marked with the red arrow in order to slide the new crossmember in?

Out of interest, what is the bracket marked with the green arrow? I don’t think it’s used on my CSW.

The blue arrows show some corrosion damage, which also includes areas close the 2nd row seat brackets. This looks like a tricky area to replace, assuming the replacement body panel is available. Has anyone else had that corrosion problem?

Thanks a lot.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge ——————————
2004 110 TD5

2nd Sep 2022 1:43pm

excossack

Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5738

I left that bracket it, I found with a bit of jiggling, I could get it pasted. I think I used a jack to gently raise the floor enough to get it under and in.

I also took the opportunity to treat/paint the top of the chassis rail. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock

2nd Sep 2022 2:51pm

rustandoil

Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 664

There should be no need to cut the red bracket... The green bracket supports your rear floor.....
Take the rear seat brackets off to reveal the full horror of your problem 😕

2nd Sep 2022 3:39pm

Intercept

Member Since: 27 Feb 2017
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 587

Titan133 wrote:
The blue arrows show some corrosion damage, which also includes areas close the 2nd row seat brackets. This looks like a tricky area to replace, assuming the replacement body panel is available. Has anyone else had that corrosion problem?

Click image to enlarge

Mine had bimetallic corrosion on the upright section of that panel where the cross-member attaches. You'll need some nylon sleeve bushes and a non-conductive gasket to insulate the new aluminium from the steel when you've replaced the corroded metal.

The eBay link in my earlier post on this thread is now out-of-stock, but alternatives exist, like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273040937208

2nd Sep 2022 4:19pm

Titan133

Member Since: 30 Dec 2016
Location: Dorset
Posts: 43

eddie wrote:
Take the rear seat brackets off to reveal the full horror of your problem 😕

Groan. That doesn’t sound very optimistic! ——————————
2004 110 TD5

2nd Sep 2022 7:04pm

rustandoil

Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 664

Sorry 😔

Let's hope I'm wrong.....

2nd Sep 2022 7:16pm

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