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BigMike

Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

power loss.

Re my problem in spain, cleaned out the fuel tank and it was all gunged up, as was the pickup. It was fine after that until a couple of days ago when it started doing it again. it doesnt do it in the morning or under normal acceleration.

then realised that the times it had done it the weather was quite warm, engine under load going up long drags in top gear. So, got to be a cooling issue, yes? Took it upto operating temperature earlier then stopped and opened the bonnet, and whilst watching the viscous fan, turned off the ignition. it spun for a second or 2 max then stopped. so that indicates to me that its working correctly. There are no fault codes stored either, and engine temp never moves (thats on the obd whilst driving, it always says 90). The rad is totally clean.

heater is working correctly in terms of heat output so that tells me its either

lack of coolant pressure (does not seem to be a leak anywhere though)
CHT sensor fault
vacuum pump problem
water pump problem
thermostat
intercooler or hoses problem
something else I'm too stupid to think of.

Its going to the dealer on monday but I'd like to have a diagnosis before it goes in as they seem to be stumped when there are no fault codes on the diagnostic, which they're arent.

I have a TDS 9.5 on the front plus the numberplate, so one could say that not enough air is getting to the radiator but realistically it should be fine, and it only started to do this recently after having the winch on for a good while.

any ideas? this is a 2010 tdci 90.

12th May 2011 5:46pm

Eduardo

Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Región Metropolitana
Posts: 2109

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey

Hi BigMike!

Same problem when towing a 1.3 ton trailer in a slope under warm conditions.
Appears to be a protection system but not 100% sure.

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic5764.html?highlight=

Cheers Eduardo

MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64'
MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo"

Click image to enlarge

12th May 2011 9:06pm

Lorryman100

Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

Mike, how much do you trust your OBDII reader? If you trust it discount the thermostat as the sensor monitors the cylinder head coolant temp. If you don't trust it swap out the thermostat as the ECU will put the engine into safe mode once it reaches a certain temp to protect the engine.

12th May 2011 9:15pm

BigMike

Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

cheers Ed, I read your post, keep us updated.

Bri, it's definitely going into safe mode. under heavy load it does it for 2 seconds at a time before power comes back. if the load is still present, 2 more seconds etc etc. Seems that in the 2 seconds the temp drops enough to come out of safe mode, but then goes back in if the load is constant.

not sure I understand your post - my OBD reader is definitely accurate. do you mean change the thermostat for a new one?

12th May 2011 9:28pm

Lorryman100

Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

Yes Mike sorry, replace the thermostat. As the thermostat only opens when the engine reaches operating temperature that would be the first thing I would check/ replace ( but if you trust the readings you are receiving then it wouldn't be the thermostat as the cylinder head sensor would show a higher temp reading if the thermostat wasn't working properly

) . Risking teaching you too suck eggs, if you remove the thermostat check too see if it opens when submerged into a pan of boiling water, if not you have the weaklink. If it does you have discounted the thermostat as being the problem. Also check that the temp sensor plug on the cylinder head is tight and corrosion free, also worth back probing the sensor to check it's working

12th May 2011 9:40pm

BigMike

Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

ah gotcha. will do, cheers

12th May 2011 9:47pm

BigMike

Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

Right. It's not the cooling system, have eliminated that.

Had a long discussion yesterday with Lee skip, senior mechanic at Lakeland Landrover and he tells me he gas seen this on three other vehicles and it's the fuel filter housing being partially blocked. Changing the housing resolves it so he tells me. He also mentioned that he knows LR is aware if it and are looking at it.

15th May 2011 2:11pm

BigMike

Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

So an update (am I talking to myself?

)

problem is either the high pressure fuel pump or the transfer pump, they've havent worked out which yet, but that's the answer which has been given to me this morning. For anyone else who has this issue, as a reminder, there are no fault codes exhibited by the ECU.

Very frustrating when you look after your vehicle to the best of your ability with frequent oil changes, cleaning the underside, waxoyling and general servicing etc.

17th May 2011 12:16pm

Eduardo

Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Región Metropolitana
Posts: 2109

Thanks BigMike for the update.

In our case the problems only happened 3-4 times during towing and never more. I will check the fuel filter housing.

Cheers Eduardo

MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64'
MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo"

Click image to enlarge

17th May 2011 2:22pm

robharvey

Member Since: 14 Dec 2009
Location: Durban
Posts: 86

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White

You're definitely not talking to yourself - keep us updated.

19th May 2011 10:39am

willy eckerslike

Member Since: 15 Jun 2009
Location: North yorks
Posts: 1789

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HCPU Keswick Green

Presume you've read this already Mike

robharvey wrote:
There are quite a few of us having this problem in South Africa. Mine cuts power in 30+ degrees ambient, going up hills at altitudes over 800m.

This is a known issue, I had a chat with the Technical chap at LR N1 City about this:

Quote:
We found on some cars that the wires on the turbo modulator plug pull out due to stress on the loom or engine vibrations. So they move the ferrite further down the loom. So if there is issues with the pins on the plug you must renew the plug with pins.

The old loom/plug had a ceramic part that prevented 2 metal parts from touching, this was more evident in high ambient temps. The new loom/plug does not contain the ceramic part, this even in high temps the metal parts are able to touch.

or something to that effect, but if you phone N1 City and ask to speak to Fanie, he knows what this is. He checked mine and found the new loom/plug (Jan 2010 model). Original Member Pie n Pea Club.
110 HCPU Tipper

19th May 2011 11:47am

BigMike

Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

Cheers Pete - been talking to rob on pm's

20th May 2011 8:25am

willy eckerslike

Member Since: 15 Jun 2009
Location: North yorks
Posts: 1789

I suppose last thing would be to get it to the stage where the power loss starts to happen hook up a test system ( BAS or alive can do this) drive and record live what happens when the power loss occurs. Original Member Pie n Pea Club.
110 HCPU Tipper

20th May 2011 8:42am

BigMike

Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

I'll be doing just that if this doesn't resolve it.

20th May 2011 8:50am

robharvey

Member Since: 14 Dec 2009
Location: Durban
Posts: 86

BigMike

Have you got your Defender back yet? If so which parts did they replace (and why, if they told you)?

20th May 2011 12:30pm

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