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OsloBlue



Member Since: 14 Jul 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 547

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Oslo Blue
100K service / headgasket / Preventative maintenance.

So i'm creeping up to 100K on the clock, and having a look around i've had a look on the web and haven't come up with much, other than treat it as an intensive service...

But having a look on the Alive facebook page they recommend changing head gaskets at 100K to prevent Head warp.

Thoughts? if its done 98K so far so good then is it better not to interfere or perhaps better to intervene?

Are there any other items of preventative replacement ect? aside from tracking and turbo spool down I've had no problems. (touch-wood)

cheers Defender Drag racer & achiever of "How is that possible" speed
Current: TD5 '110 "Lucinda" Thread here: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62562.html
Previously: Disco 3/4 2010 Manual, BMW 325D SE, '08 Nissan Pathfinder, '08 Nissan Navara, '08 Focus ST, '97 Vectra track car.

Post #748136 30th Dec 2018 10:26pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 6645

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey

How does changing the head gasket prevent head warp? Are they suggesting a different gasket? Darren

2013 Defender 110 USW XS
2013 Discovery 4 XS

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

MY 110 USW BUILD THREAD - MY 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD

Instagram: @landroveranorak

Post #748141 30th Dec 2018 10:38pm
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OsloBlue



Member Since: 14 Jul 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 547

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Oslo Blue

Quote:
"Discovery TD5 in for a head gasket replacement.

Due to high mileage, our customer has asked for a precautionary head gasket replacement on her Discovery.

We recommend replacement at 100,000 mile intervals so you’ll have the peace of mind it won’t let you down and potentially cost you a great deal more!

Prevention is better than the cure."

then there was a load of outcry.

Quote:
"Some interesting opinions here, but with having extensively worked on the Td5 for over 15 years, we understand how they work and how they fail, perhaps more than most.

As mentioned previously, some Td5’s can go for well in excess of 200,000 miles without the need for a replacement head gasket, but these vehicles often have an easy life with low engine revs/loads and long distance runs.

Harder working Td5’s or highly tuned Td5’s will inevitably suffer more as they are exposed to greater cylinder pressures and higher exhaust gas temperatures.

We’ve seen a handful of Td5’s that have needed head gasket replacement with as little as 50,000 miles and many more that have lasted up to around 140,000 miles.

On average they seem to start to show signs of failure at around 100,000 miles and we routinely monitor every Td5 that comes in for service or tuning work, checking for early signs and advising our customers of the symptoms and what they need to keep an eye on.

It’s a pretty big deal if the Td5 head gasket does let go, as it often causes the head to warp and 9 times out of 10, the cylinder head is scrap and needs to be replaced. That gets very expensive!

This is no different to how we’d advise on brake pad wear or tyre condition. Essential for safety and crucial for reliability.

We want our customer's cars to be reliable and by being attentive to the condition of the vehicle when we see it, we can perform both routine and preventative maintenance to ensure reliability and customer peace of mind."
 Defender Drag racer & achiever of "How is that possible" speed
Current: TD5 '110 "Lucinda" Thread here: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62562.html
Previously: Disco 3/4 2010 Manual, BMW 325D SE, '08 Nissan Pathfinder, '08 Nissan Navara, '08 Focus ST, '97 Vectra track car.

Post #748145 30th Dec 2018 10:45pm
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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: Stockport
Posts: 467

United Kingdom 

I wouldn’t worry about it.

I fretted about my head gasket, what if the manifold warped, what if the injector seals failed, what if the harmonic damper failed and wrecked the crankshaft?
What if my oil pump bolt was to come loose and fall off? What if the FPR leaked. What if my turbo bearings went and the engine ran away.

I tell you what, let’s just drive the Defender, service it regularly, and forget about it. 50,000 miles on and nothing has happened.

Post #748163 31st Dec 2018 12:24am
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Tommo



Member Since: 19 Dec 2013
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 665

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 Black LE Java Black

I had a overhaul done at 112k.

Had coolant leak and oil leak so had head off and checked, new gasket (all genuine parts) seals, injectors etc, and fuel pressure regulator.

New radiator, intercooler, all hoses replaced (LR parts), new tyres, brake pads, discs, calipers, brake hoses and some other bits and bobs.

Some of this did not need replacing but decided to do preventative overhaul Thumbs Up

Post #748181 31st Dec 2018 9:08am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 6645

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey

OsloBlue wrote:
then there was a load of outcry.

Hmm, ok. They've got a point about them having more experience than most but they also qualify the recommendation by saying that it depends on usage and state of tune. So the question then becomes one of how do you use your LR and is it heavily tuned? If it's standard and spends most of its' time pootling about then it's probably overkill but if you're planning on dune bashing in Morocco or similar and have all of the usual tuning toys then it'd be a worthwhile precaution. Darren

2013 Defender 110 USW XS
2013 Discovery 4 XS

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

MY 110 USW BUILD THREAD - MY 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD

Instagram: @landroveranorak

Post #748183 31st Dec 2018 9:12am
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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: Stockport
Posts: 467

United Kingdom 

But l wouldn’t take the head off if there’s nothing wrong with it? They don’t all fail, although the earlier pre-2001 10p engine is worse in that respect.

Post #748214 31st Dec 2018 11:00am
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OsloBlue



Member Since: 14 Jul 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 547

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Oslo Blue

Yes i believe the 10P had something wrong with the dowels.

Just when i had the ST i had an engine runaway in 3rd pulling onto the motorway and had to get the engine rebuilt, turns out there was a service item that wasn't attended to by main dealer or something... Defender Drag racer & achiever of "How is that possible" speed
Current: TD5 '110 "Lucinda" Thread here: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62562.html
Previously: Disco 3/4 2010 Manual, BMW 325D SE, '08 Nissan Pathfinder, '08 Nissan Navara, '08 Focus ST, '97 Vectra track car.

Post #748229 31st Dec 2018 12:14pm
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TJH1985



Member Since: 22 Aug 2016
Location: Midlands
Posts: 158

United Kingdom 

I would replace the crankshaft damper, mine had the "chirp" when you turned it off at 90k so replaced it and the rubber was in poor condition - perished etc.

I have also just replaced one on a 04 Disco 2 with 110k on the clock, sheared off luckily when they were slowing down for a junction and didn't damage anything else. When I asked if it had a "chirp" they said it had for a while.. its gone now its had a new damper.


Click image to enlarge

Post #748268 31st Dec 2018 4:13pm
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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: Stockport
Posts: 467

United Kingdom 

Mine’s chirped when you turn off the engine for years. I mentioned the harmonic damper to my local LR specialist but they chuffed it off.
The aux belt can chirp when you stop the engine. A spray of silicone will temporarily stop it and let you know if it’s the belt, or the damper.
I am guessing it’s the belt on mine, although l’ve changed it twice in the last 4 years.

Post #748327 31st Dec 2018 7:55pm
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TJH1985



Member Since: 22 Aug 2016
Location: Midlands
Posts: 158

United Kingdom 

I don’t think anyone really knows the cause of the “chirp” all I know is that every damper I have replaced has been shot and after the “Chirp” has disappeared never to return so they are some how linked?

I always assumed it was the extra give in the damper rubber and it did it as it returned back as the centre piece stopped with the engine but the outer has enough give to twist a little - maybe the chirp is it rubbing on the stationary belt as it flex’s back to its resting position so a spray of lube would stop it regardless.

My chirp survived a belt, tensioner and idler change Sad

I have two old dampers in the garage I think, if so I’ll take some pics of the rubber after ~100k / 14 years.

Post #748337 31st Dec 2018 8:24pm
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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: Stockport
Posts: 467

United Kingdom 

Yes that would be good as my 110 is 14 years old and on 106,000.

Is replacing the damper a DIY job? What is involved?

Post #748373 31st Dec 2018 10:49pm
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TJH1985



Member Since: 22 Aug 2016
Location: Midlands
Posts: 158

United Kingdom 

It seems my other half has scrapped mine Neutral Here is one that was from a 53 plate with 90k on the clock, it's not as bad as the one I wanted to show you, but you can see where the rubber is degrading and has what looks like loads of small tears in it.

Easy job, the problem for most would be the 460Nm that the pulley bolt is done up to requires a rather large torque wrench otherwise remove fan, aux belt, and then it's one big bolt. I drilled a length of bar and used two of the TV damper bolts to hold it to undo / tighten it.



Click image to enlarge



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Last edited by TJH1985 on 3rd Jan 2019 1:58pm. Edited 1 time in total

Post #748710 2nd Jan 2019 3:38pm
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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: Stockport
Posts: 467

United Kingdom 

Thank you for the photos. I think it’s time to change mine, l’ll get the removal tool.

Post #748886 3rd Jan 2019 1:26pm
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grafty99



Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: North Devon
Posts: 3805

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Caledonian Blue

15p engines can have plastic head locating dowels too (as mine did)

My Defender has been heavily tuned for nearly 100k miles, the only reason I had a problem was because of the plastic dowels.

I replaced the head because the head had been floating (dowels broken) and burred around the cylinders. Td5 heads can only take a VERY light skim, so to be sure I just replaced the head. I had symptoms for quite a while before I eventually got round to doing anything about it.

I would suggest leaving it alone until you have symptoms. If it ain't broke don't fix it Thumbs Up 2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE
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Post #748899 3rd Jan 2019 3:12pm
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