 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Output shaft failure, Forum Survey |
 
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3209   
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Sound idea. I am not sure if it was possible to place the grease nipples closer to the gearbox so any fresh grease pumped in would push the contaminants out from all the splines. But perhaps the male splines do not go in that far? 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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2nd Feb 2024 2:02pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1763 
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What grease gun coupler are you thinking of using, to avoid it getting stuck on the grease nipple ? Something like the extra long G-Coupler ? Or a grease gun needle nozzle ?
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2nd Feb 2024 4:06pm |
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| Def90 Member Since: 17 Jan 2015 Location: Kent Posts: 253 
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Hi blackwolf
Yes not my idea, came across a post here sometime ago And thought it was a simple solution and didn’t understand Why more people hadn’t tried it! Hi Dinnu I didn’t really considered this but if the gearbox oil doesn’t Leak out the rear output splines into the cup I hope the grease Won’t make it way into the gearbox! Hi Ianh I have this that’s a bit like a needle nozzle adapter for a normal Grease gun but instead of a fine point it has a shallow cup with a rubber Seal at the end you push onto the grease nipple. No idea what it’s called as it came from my late father’s tools!  Click image to enlarge |
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2nd Feb 2024 11:11pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16879 
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You can probably disconnect a standard coupler by rotating the shaft a bit. Try it before fitting the transfer box.
Where have you made the access hole? |
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2nd Feb 2024 11:21pm |
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| Def90 Member Since: 17 Jan 2015 Location: Kent Posts: 253
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Hi Blackwolf
I was trying to keep the access hole as small as possible. Click image to enlarge The Grease gun adapter tool I have is 12mm dia and The hole in the adapter housing is 14mm. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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3rd Feb 2024 12:02am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16879
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Neat work, should be good.
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3rd Feb 2024 12:06am |
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| pistonfields Member Since: 29 Mar 2022 Location: Zurich Posts: 65 
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nice one! Let us know how it holds up!
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3rd Feb 2024 8:35am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1763
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What grease are you thinking of using ? I would have thought Morris K48 would be good in this application https://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/k48-moly-grease.html.
Also how will you know you have the correct amount in the coupling and don’t over grease. |
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3rd Feb 2024 12:27pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16879
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For a splined (i.e., sliding) joint the more molybdenum the better, so that k48 should be good.
Are you planning to refit the dust seal and cap to the joint? I'm in two minds as to whether it might be better to omit it so that surplus grease can escape without pushing the seal and cap off, but if you do leave it off you'd probably want to grease it more often. It would probably take years before you filled the extension housing entirely full of grease. Grease shouldn't be lost from the joint (with the seal fitted) so all you are really trying to ensure with the nipples is that the grease in the joint doesn't dry out. I packed mine with moly grease about 125k miles (approx 6 years) ago but until I get round to changing the clutch I won't know what condition the grease, or the joint for that matter, is in now. |
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3rd Feb 2024 12:43pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2262  
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I while ago I was thinking that some sort of CV boot/gaiter type of cover would have been a better design (cheapo enough for JLR standards) to keep the lubricant "sealed" inside the coupling. Although the gap between the cup and the extension is just a couple of mm. At least Japanese made CV joints on most FWD/4WD/AWD applications last a long time.
I m sure somebody will come along to say it is a terrible idea  Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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3rd Feb 2024 12:51pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16879
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I don't think it is a terrible idea at all, although it may not actually improve anything.
For a joint like this to last, there are 4 prerequisites, none of which should be a surprise to a mechanical engineer: 1. It must have minimal or no misalignment (LR fail on point 1) 2. It must be lubricated properly on assembly (LR fail on point 2) 3. The lubricant must be retained in the joint (probably satisfactory in standard form but no use if you haven't put any lubricant in to begin with, so LR fail on point 3) 4. It must be possible to renew the grease to prevent it drying out (LR fail on point 4, although arguably it's not a fail since the design included a clutch that needs renewing quicker than grease dries out). It will be interesting, when I finally get round to changing my clutch, to see if the grease I packed into the joint firstly is still in the joint (if so it suggests that the standard seal is adequate) and still resembles moly grease. I expect it still to be wet, since CV joints generally don't have a dessication problem and modern greases are much better than old ones. |
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3rd Feb 2024 1:09pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2262
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Not being myself a mechanical engineer (at least not at the level of JLR solutions) I think the idea will asses points 2 to 4.
2) Just add the lubricant 3) The boot will keep the lubricant inside the thing 4) Renew when the clutch or bearing fails, which will occur before the lubricant degrades. Keep in mind the idea is coping with cheapo JLR solution policy, just like the mickey mouse clutch design. Puma 110" SW ............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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3rd Feb 2024 2:03pm |
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| Def90 Member Since: 17 Jan 2015 Location: Kent Posts: 253
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I rebuilt it using the factory dust seal and cap and packed it with
Some Comma CV grease! I will take off the T Box in 5-6k and inspect the output shaft when I replace the diff. The CV boot gator idea is something worth looking into but the down side could be Forcing grease back into the gearbox and the factory dust seal does give any grease An easy way out. Click image to enlarge |
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3rd Feb 2024 9:20pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16879
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You won't force grease back into the gearbox no matter what you do. There is a greater risk that if you pump grease into the coupling too vigorously you will pop the two parts of the coupling apart.
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3rd Feb 2024 11:08pm |
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