 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Puma hesitation when hot |
 
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| meeerrrk Member Since: 12 Feb 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 548   
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I found the following;
I changed the VCV and it felt a little better, although my symptoms were still there. I then had the VCV relean done, which felt immediately smoother and better. My 2.4 tdci is remapped and I didn't remove the re-map first. My 90 Project : http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic52774.html |
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7th Dec 2017 1:45pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17731 
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I have never reverted to the factory map before doing either pump or injector relearn oeprations. Logically there should be no need to, and since my remap also turned off the EGR and its cleaning cycle about 150,000 miles ago it is inevitable that reverting to the factory map would be problematic.
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7th Dec 2017 1:58pm |
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| Curtis-Bay Member Since: 10 Apr 2016 Location: Blockley Posts: 29
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Hi Blackwolf and Meeerrrk. That is great news - looks like I am getting dirty this weekend.
I will let you know how I get on. |
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7th Dec 2017 2:01pm |
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| Curtis-Bay Member Since: 10 Apr 2016 Location: Blockley Posts: 29
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OK. So I finally got round to changing the VCV on my Puma 2.4 to see if it would cure the hesitation I have under acceleration or under load when the engine is hot.
After the valve was replaced - but before the pump re-learn was done - the symptoms were worse and I was optimistic that the link between the VCV and the hesitation had been found. Yesterday I had the pump relearn done to calibrate the new valve and all seemed to be well - the hesitation was gone and the power delivery was smooth at all rev ranges and under gentle and hard acceleration. Sadly today I have had the opportunity to drive further and up and down some fairly large hills. The hesitation is back when I accelerate hard and under load. It is particularly noticeable going up a steep hill where the power delivery pulses rather than being smooth. It is fair to say that I am stumped. There are no error codes on the ECU and I can't see anything physically wrong with the fuel or air side of the engine. The engine feels like it is being starved of either fuel or boost under load but when it finally gets going it goes like the clappers! I am totally confused by the issues I am having and really appreciate the help given to date. Any further assistance would be gratefully received. |
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21st Feb 2018 1:59pm |
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| BenB8man Member Since: 22 Mar 2017 Location: Norfolk Posts: 432
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Not sure if I'm going backwards with this one, but when they serviced did they swap the fuel filter? Might be a lack of fuel or inconsistent feed of fuel if you've looked at every other option. -just an idea.
If so, might be worth getting some diagnostics attached when the issue is occurring. With my BAS RRC tool I'm able to look at things like throttle position, turbo actuation, fuel rail pressure etc. Might be a long shot, but it could give you a place to look next. |
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21st Feb 2018 2:09pm |
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| hornet Member Since: 04 Jan 2010 Location: Western Europe Posts: 362 |
It definately sounds like a temperature-related problem. Fueling will be reduced by ecu, or a problem with turbo. I recommend to measure egt (exhaust gas temperature) and cht (via OBD) to trace the problem. You also should check/lubricate the linkage for vtg! Strange that you get no error-codes.... |
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23rd Feb 2018 10:32am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17731
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It could be the turbo actuator, the symptoms are similar to those I had when I had an actuator problem.
In my case the mechanics of the turbo and actuator were fine and the vanes moved freely, but the engine harness was severely chafed in several places and one of the feedback wires from the actuator stepper motor eventually parted, disabling the actuator (and hence turbo) completely. When I investigated I found also that the main alternator to battery wire was also severely chafed and I was probably only days away from a catastrophic short circuit and fire. Before the actuator signal wire parted, I had an intermittent loss of power, probably cause by it randomly earthing. There were no faults logged in the ECM at any stage (which rather makes you question the thoroughness Ford's/JLR's diagnotic routines). |
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23rd Feb 2018 10:45am |
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| Curtis-Bay Member Since: 10 Apr 2016 Location: Blockley Posts: 29
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Hi Hornet, Blackwolf....
Hornet - The temperature issue maybe relevant. Ever since I have owned the car the temperature gauge sits just slightly above the midway point. It never varies and the thermostat is working as it maintains the temperature irrespective of load and ambient temperature. I suppose the thermostat may be working at the wrong temperature range? I don't have diagnostic tool so I may have to remove the thermostat and test it in a pan of water - is there anywhere I can measure the temperature of the hoses or engine with an infra-red thermometer to get an idea of what is going on before I drain the system down? Blackwolf - The wiring in the engine bay appear OK - I read your post on your problem some time ago and checked the looms - there doesn't seem to be and chafing visible. I was checking the workshop manual and the symptoms of a faulty EGR valve are similar to what I am experiencing. My EGR is shut off by the re-map but if it was dirty prior to doing this could it be very slightly open and if so could this cause my symptoms? |
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28th Feb 2018 2:45pm |
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| meeerrrk Member Since: 12 Feb 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 548
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It could be EGR.
I've suffered all kinds of rough running once warmed up, coughing and spluttering especially on light throttle. loss of power and fairly smoky on full throttle. Yesterday I had my EGR switched off....WOW! what a difference. I would certainly add a blank to the EGR to eliminate it, for £3 and 10mins its got to be easiest thing to do. edit, you've done the VCV now sorry... My 90 Project : http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic52774.html Last edited by meeerrrk on 28th Feb 2018 2:52pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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28th Feb 2018 2:51pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17731
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Yes, in which case it might be worth fitting a blanking plate in the pipe between the EGR cooler and the EGR valve. They are inexpensive and it would either cure the problem or rule out another possibility. |
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28th Feb 2018 2:51pm |
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| Curtis-Bay Member Since: 10 Apr 2016 Location: Blockley Posts: 29
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Any suggestions where I might get a blanking plate?
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28th Feb 2018 3:17pm |
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| meeerrrk Member Since: 12 Feb 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 548
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EGR-blanking-pl...2749.l2649
ordered Monday - arrived Tuesday. My 90 Project : http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic52774.html |
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28th Feb 2018 3:20pm |
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| Curtis-Bay Member Since: 10 Apr 2016 Location: Blockley Posts: 29
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Many Thanks - ordered and fingers crossed.
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28th Feb 2018 3:40pm |
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| Curtis-Bay Member Since: 10 Apr 2016 Location: Blockley Posts: 29
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Hi Meeerrrk
With the EGR blanking plate fitted does your warning light show on the dash or has this been overridden by disabling the EGR in a re-map? Not sure I want a warning lamp on my dash all the time. |
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28th Feb 2018 3:47pm |
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