 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Puma 2.4 not starting ..... immobiliser??? |
 
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| joshramsell Member Since: 04 May 2022 Location: Barnsley Posts: 8   
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Thankd for that will have a look on there site as all symptoms seem to be same as described thanks alot will let you know how i get on
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18th May 2022 1:45pm |
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| Bradders130 Member Since: 27 Nov 2021 Location: Southampton Posts: 75 
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Yep, it would be good too know how it goes. Ian from Remote Key got back to me in the end and I have just sent mine off to him together with both the plips. Like wise, I’ll let you know how it goes.
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18th May 2022 10:05pm |
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| joshramsell Member Since: 04 May 2022 Location: Barnsley Posts: 8
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Quick update new 10as fitted today and fired straight up thanks for the help 👍🏻
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19th May 2022 5:35pm |
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| Bradders130 Member Since: 27 Nov 2021 Location: Southampton Posts: 75
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Nice one, I’m glad it worked out for you.
I’ve had my 10AS tested by Ian at Remote Key - a really helpful chap, and he says that it is all fine with no errors or anything 🤨. This is good from one point of view as it means that the unit is all working with no issues, but I now have to try and find what the actual problem is. I’ve got a new ignition switch coming on Saturday which I’ll fit and see if that make a difference. I actually managed to get both the little micro screws out with a very small screwdriver. It was a bit fiddly, but not half as bad as trying to drill out the anti-tamper bolts. A good tip for anyone reading this who is thinking of changing the ignition switch. Getting the one on the front side will be more of a challenge I think. I still think that it’s an immobiliser problem, but something before or after the 10AS unit. I think it’s going to be a matter of checking all the wiring and connectors plus the earths. What an unbelievable pain in the neck. |
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19th May 2022 9:18pm |
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| joshramsell Member Since: 04 May 2022 Location: Barnsley Posts: 8
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What are your symptoms? And what have you tried mate im no mechanic but seems like its a trial and error with everything and you got any error codes?
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19th May 2022 9:21pm |
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| Bradders130 Member Since: 27 Nov 2021 Location: Southampton Posts: 75
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I have 3 glow plugs down, but bearing in mind the temp at the moment, I don’t think that is relevant. The Nanocom gives the following, “Too much fault data to process. Please consult the user manual for further information”. May be an earth fault, but I still need to look into this one. The interior light is not working when opening the doors, but can be switched on manually. Also I can’t synchronise the 10AS using the Nanocom, but I’ve put this down to a shortfall with the Nanocom as opposed to a problem anywhere else, unless someone knows otherwise.
As I might have said previously, I get about 2 seconds of cranking and then nothing. The thing is, I don’t know how the 10AS works in relation to the main ECU, the starter relay, ignition switch and transponder coil, etc. I will have to study the wiring diagrams amongst other things. |
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19th May 2022 10:27pm |
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| Bradders130 Member Since: 27 Nov 2021 Location: Southampton Posts: 75
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Hi Ianh, thanks for that. Although mine must have been one of the first of the 2.2’s as it does have a green 10AS box which has just been returned by Ian at Remote Key who has given it a clean bill of health. I think Land Rover must have had some left over after the 2.4, before they switched to the ALM. I’m going to have a look at all the wiring tomorrow and see if I can find any bad connections. I did have the cubby box off along with the cover over the gearbox and maybe I’ve disturbed one of the connections coming out of the fuse box which goes over the top of the gearbox. It is a mystery and I’m sure it’s got something to do with the fact that the courtesy light doesn’t work on the doors although the switches are good, and the fact that I can’t sync the 10AS. I have a new ignition switch coming tomorrow which I’ll fit. As I said previously that maybe just a shortcoming of the Nanacom. I’ve tried the shunt in the IPAK to no effect, so just a bit of a wiring fault now I think unless anyone can suggest anything else.
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20th May 2022 3:40pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1752
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As you say, either LR had some 10AS units left over, or if you have not had from new someone swapped a faulty ALM unit for a 10AS.
Does your central locking work ok ? If not have you double checked fuse F9 , 20A under dash ? https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56085...automobile Just a thought, probably not the issue, but only a couple of mins to check. |
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20th May 2022 4:53pm |
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| Bradders130 Member Since: 27 Nov 2021 Location: Southampton Posts: 75
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Yep, checked all the fuses under the dash on the drivers side and under the drivers seat and they are all good. The central locking also works fine.
I think that the next move will be a thorough examination of the wiring diagrams and see where we go after that. I don’t suppose you, or any one else, knows what the difference is between the green and gray connectors on the 10AS unit? When I was looking at them earlier I noticed that the gray one has numbered pins and the green one doesn’t. There doesn’t seem to be any acknowledgement of the green one on the wiring diagram and yet that’s the connector that contains the earth which is supposed to be on pin 11 according to the diagram - presumably on the gray connector. |
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21st May 2022 12:18am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1752
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This should help https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/upload...0Guide.pdf
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21st May 2022 6:30pm |
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| Bradders130 Member Since: 27 Nov 2021 Location: Southampton Posts: 75
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Thanks Ianh that’s immensely helpful.
The frustrating thing is, it started this afternoon, three times on the trot, but then on the third attempt nothing. On the three times that it ran the IPAC was out of it and was still out on the fourth time when it didn’t run 🤨 |
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21st May 2022 7:42pm |
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| Bradders130 Member Since: 27 Nov 2021 Location: Southampton Posts: 75
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So I’ve just checked the fuses again on the drivers side under the dash and found that the 10A fuse F1 was missing which feeds the internal volumetric sensor I think. So I now have a 12v feed on pin 10 of the 10AS grey connector which wasn’t there previously, but now neither of the plips work.
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21st May 2022 9:18pm |
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| Bradders130 Member Since: 27 Nov 2021 Location: Southampton Posts: 75
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Hey JBLancs, did you get sorted in the end? |
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21st May 2022 9:20pm |
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| Bradders130 Member Since: 27 Nov 2021 Location: Southampton Posts: 75
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Well folks, the Landy has decided to start working - what a relief, to say the least!
I haven’t found anything absolutely conclusive, but I’m pretty sure it was a bad earth, at k108 and K109. I had been trying to start it continually over the last couple of weeks and it fired up every now and again and ran without issue, sometimes twice on the trot, but then nothing. yesterday it did the same, but ran about four times before turning over firing and then cutting out. I had tested the earth on the 10AS previously and it seemed to be ok, however I checked the earth on the interior light and it came back at around 140 ohms. K108 is the earth point for this, but is quite tricky to reach, so I sprayed some WD40 on it and watched as the ohms reading dropped like a stone to around 2 ohms! I did the same over on the other side of the bulkhead and since then everything has been fine. It also runs without the IPAK connected which is interesting. So the next job has been to put everything back together and one of those jobs was replacing the ignition switch into the back of the steering lock. I’d removed this as a precautionary measure with the intention of replacing it, in case it was the cause of the problem. I had read a lot of threads on here where the ignition switch had been at fault. I had previously managed to get both the front and rear tiny screws out, as this seemed to be a better option than drilling out the anti-tamper bolts. At least it was worth a try and was the less destructive method. Fortunately it worked out, although the front came out ok, the rear one was quite difficult to remove (I didn’t replace the switch in the end as the engine started using the original). The front screw was easy to get to and replace and whilst I had managed to get the rear one out, getting it back in was going to be difficult.  Click image to enlarge My biggest fear was dropping the screw, so I decided to place some foil under the steering lock so if one did fall, at least it would disappear into the abyss of the dashboard. I also thought to glue the screw onto the end of the screwdriver using superglue and then to be doubly sure, use some shrink wrap to make sure that it would definitely not drop off. Click image to enlarge So I had the IPAC out and removed the steering wheel and front seats, just to make access easier. I also removed the transponder coil. Click image to enlarge With all of that out of the way, I managed to get both hands in behind the steering lock and used the screwdriver to get the screw in - result. The 10AS was next and whilst the left hand screw was ok, the right hand screw was really difficult to get to. However, it was possible using a 3/8” extension and a universal joint. I managed to hold the torx bit into the 10mm socket using a small piece of paper. I did the same with the screw. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge After that, everything else was a breeze and the engine is still starting. So if you are thinking of changing your ignition switch, you should be able to do it by removing the screws rather than drilling out the bolts and using an easy out. I also take a size 10 glove and have large hands, so if I can do it, anyone should be able to give it a go. Here is a photo of the screwdriver I used. Click image to enlarge |
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25th May 2022 11:46am |
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