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Shax



Member Since: 05 Oct 2010
Location: London
Posts: 391

England 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Likeomg wrote:
Wild Card 90 wrote:
Sorry to hear that. 41 K! The horrible thing is there is no ryme or reason as to how long a shaft will last. We will be doing a several thousand K trip towing a 2.5 T trailer soon, and already I´m thinking what to do in the event....

Shame on you JLR!


if i was in your position id probably get the ashcroft upgraded one fitted before i set off on big trips with a large trailer...


I had the Ashcroft kit fitted to mine a couple of months back... Dave and his chaps were superb in the service I got.. Not the cheapest fix, but I know it'll never run dry.. Unless the gearbox dumps its load on the road!!

Here are a couple of pix of the removed shaft and coupler...


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
 ... ,-------,
.. I [__][_]|__
.. I __ |"_|"__|
.. "(o)====(o)"
^^_-^-_^-^_^^^^^--^^^^
PAUL
G7ALW 14.200 USB
26FB458 / 27.275 SSB
Post #532442 17th May 2016 7:37pm
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Fish13



Member Since: 17 May 2015
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 71

Scotland 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Tamar Blue
Thanks Shax,

I'll post pics of mine when it's done. Parts were ordered today, hopefully done tomorrow.

This one lasted 41k dry, so hopefully get a lot more out of one that's greased! If it feels anything like it did again, I'll buy the Ashcroft one in advance.

Has anyone fitted a properly greased one and what mileage have you gotten out of that? Curious to know!

Cheers,

Fish.
Post #532477 17th May 2016 8:45pm
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Fatboy Slim



Member Since: 04 Feb 2008
Location: Bridgend
Posts: 1006

Wales 
Hate to say it, but I've found greasing them a waste of time. Unless you can keep greasing it the grease just dries out and becomes a rusty grinding paste on the splines.
Post #532479 17th May 2016 8:58pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Raising my head above the parapet...

Would there be any advantage instead of greasing them but to bond them together?

I'm sure Locktite would have an appropriate substance which would lock the two together? Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #532616 18th May 2016 12:44pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16933

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I really don't think it would last. I once tried Loctiting the drive flanges onto the ends of the halfshafts thinking it might reduce fretting. It did, but only for a couple of miles.

I wondered about the feasibility of cross-drilling through the whole joint and pinning or bolting through it.
Post #532622 18th May 2016 1:09pm
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nickhodgson



Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Zambia
Posts: 172

What are the two studs welded on to the coupler for? To get the coupler off and is that the only way? What if you just want to grease the coupler? 1995 300tdi Defender 90 P/UP
2011 Puma Defender 130 D/C
2000 300tdi Defender 110 P/UP
2015 Discovery 4 SDV6 HSE
Post #532631 18th May 2016 1:32pm
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
blackwolf wrote:
I really don't think it would last. I once tried Loctiting the drive flanges onto the ends of the halfshafts thinking it might reduce fretting. It did, but only for a couple of miles.

I wondered about the feasibility of cross-drilling through the whole joint and pinning or bolting through it.


Could use something a bit more flexible? But maybe that would just wobble, wear and fall out as dust.

nickhodgson wrote:
What are the two studs welded on to the coupler for? To get the coupler off and is that the only way? What if you just want to grease the coupler?


It can't be the only way, my local bloke with a garage called Tim managed to change mine without them. He's not a Land Rover guy, just a useful bloke.
Post #532662 18th May 2016 3:21pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16933

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
The correct way is to use a special tool to hold it while undoing (or doing up) the retaining bolt or screw, and then to use a conventional puller to pull it off the gearbox splines.

I shudder when I see some of the blacksmith bodgery used for some jobs!
Post #532675 18th May 2016 4:19pm
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Shax



Member Since: 05 Oct 2010
Location: London
Posts: 391

England 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
nickhodgson wrote:
What are the two studs welded on to the coupler for? To get the coupler off and is that the only way? What if you just want to grease the coupler?


They were welded on by the fitters to pull the duff coupler off..
looks drastic, but it works!

One thing to make sure is that you do not nick the oil seals when fitting... The newer kits have been modified to reduce the likelyhood of this happening, but lets be careful eh!!! ... ,-------,
.. I [__][_]|__
.. I __ |"_|"__|
.. "(o)====(o)"
^^_-^-_^-^_^^^^^--^^^^
PAUL
G7ALW 14.200 USB
26FB458 / 27.275 SSB
Post #532724 18th May 2016 7:54pm
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Fish13



Member Since: 17 May 2015
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 71

Scotland 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Tamar Blue
An update as it came apart today - seems a pretty bad example compared to some others I've seen on here...


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
Post #532792 18th May 2016 9:51pm
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Morepower



Member Since: 08 Jan 2013
Location: Fife, Scotland
Posts: 630

New Zealand 
Wonder how long before one of these units fail and somebody gets seriously hurt... All for the sake of some accountant saving 2p per vehicle... I'm frankly shocked LR don't do a safety recall...
Imagine the field day the press could do with this known fault....

Tim It doesn't matter how bad it is, It can always get worse...

2013 Bowler 110 (Sold)
2016 Bowler 90 Rally Spec (Sold)
Post #532806 18th May 2016 10:19pm
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MR_JAMES



Member Since: 10 Oct 2013
Location: ESSEX
Posts: 244

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Fatboy Slim wrote:
Hate to say it, but I've found greasing them a waste of time. Unless you can keep greasing it the grease just dries out and becomes a rusty grinding paste on the splines.


what grease were you using? 1953 80"
1987 mini city e
2011 90"
Post #532809 18th May 2016 10:23pm
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Fatboy Slim



Member Since: 04 Feb 2008
Location: Bridgend
Posts: 1006

Wales 
Tried pretty much everything. Caterpillar desert gold lasts the longest but still not the answer. Unless you can keep greasing it periodically it'll just dry out and wear no matter what you do. FYI some of our site vehicles were lucky to get 5000 miles out of a shaft. Rubbish bit of design. The casing between the two boxes should be sealed and full of oil.
Post #532811 18th May 2016 10:30pm
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MadTom



Member Since: 10 Sep 2013
Location: Olomouc
Posts: 581

Czech Republic 1999 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Baltic Blue
Using Loctite - look at the Discovery 2 halfshafts. They are loctited to the hubs. But it was designed this way. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "BlufĂ­nek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo Smile
Post #532876 19th May 2016 9:17am
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defender9



Member Since: 12 Mar 2016
Location: Fylde Coast
Posts: 1614

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Is this still a problem with the latest vehicles 14, 15 and 16 plate or have LR fixed it?
Post #532882 19th May 2016 9:55am
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