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The Hulk

Member Since: 13 Apr 2016
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 81

1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green

No charge

I'm pretty certain the 90 isn't charging. Starting performance hasn't been great so I replaced her battery with a fully charged one and all was good for a week or so. Now it's going the same way. The battery that came out has been on charge for several days and is now good.

The clincher was using an air compressor to check the tyre pressures. The compressor normally sounds good when the engine is running but on the 90 it sounded sick - and it sounded exactly the same when I switched the engine off. On the 110 the compressor sounded normal with that engine running but sick with the engine off.

Checking the 90 with a meter gave a consistent 13ish volts at the alternator regardless of whether it was running or not. It's possible that everything just needs a clean? There's no other evidence of the alternator failing; no strange noises etc.

Is there a regulator in the back of the alternator and is it possible that's all that's required to be replaced? Mid Life; Live It!

Ongoing thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic45697.html
110 300Tdi Utility (Hulk)
90 300Tdi SW (GF's Tank)

15th Apr 2016 1:45pm

Mash

Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: Guernsey
Posts: 1674

Running you should be getting around 14.4v from the alternator. 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html
110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html
52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html
D3 Hse - Fiona
Capri 2l S - Anna

Think I might have a problem............

15th Apr 2016 2:06pm

Browny90

Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 183

2004 Defender 90 200 Tdi SW Stornoway Grey

you should certainly notice a change in voltage between the engine running and not.. It sounds like you alternator has packed up, but worth checking all conections and cleaning etc..

pop into a halfrauds, they will do a free battery check normally where they use a bit of kit that checks it under load etc.. it will tell you battery and charging health etc.. My 1986 90 is currently on a full rebuild, with new chassis, Paint etc.. Very much a hybrid, TD5 Chassis, tub & bulkhead with a 200TDI and LT77 GB Painted in Stornoway Grey

2 years off the road, but getting close to completion now

15th Apr 2016 2:46pm

jeffersj

Member Since: 23 Jan 2015
Location: Near Preston
Posts: 431

1996 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Bronze Green

I am assuming that drive belt is correctly adjusted and not slipping slightly? Jeff
Ex 1968 Series 2A
Ex 90 TD5
Ex D3
Ex D4

16th Apr 2016 9:53am

The Hulk

Member Since: 13 Apr 2016
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 81

Yes, everything running as it should, and the battery is good.

I'll probably remove the alternator and see what's inside. I just wondered if there was a separate regulator which could be tested first? Mid Life; Live It!

Ongoing thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic45697.html
110 300Tdi Utility (Hulk)
90 300Tdi SW (GF's Tank)

16th Apr 2016 10:51am

dorsetsmith

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

if its an A127 Alt link is good parts pic

http://www.jcrsupplies.co.uk/products/ALTE...TYPE_.html

Last edited by dorsetsmith on 16th Apr 2016 12:00pm. Edited 1 time in total

16th Apr 2016 11:02am

VeeTee

Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

Does de charge light in the instrument panel come on with ignition, and does it go out when the engine is running? Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold)
1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold)
1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold)
1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold)
2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold)
2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold)

MySite

16th Apr 2016 11:59am

The Hulk

Member Since: 13 Apr 2016
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 81

Good point! The battery warning light is on with the ignition but goes out immediately on starting. Surely it should be illuminated if the alternator isn't charging? Is there any reason why it wouldn't if the bulb works? Mid Life; Live It!

Ongoing thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic45697.html
110 300Tdi Utility (Hulk)
90 300Tdi SW (GF's Tank)

16th Apr 2016 1:05pm

VeeTee

Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

On with ignition and then off with charging is OK, so the bulb is working and the alternator gets field current.
If you measure the voltage at the alternator and it is less than approx. 14.4 V, the regulator or diodes may by gone. If no loose connections or faulty wiring, I would suggest to have the alternator tested by a specialist. Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold)
1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold)
1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold)
1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold)
2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold)
2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold)

MySite

16th Apr 2016 1:11pm

sako243

Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1190

1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White

If you're one of these that don't understand ekectrickery then think of the alternator as an amplifier. It takes a small amount of current in the field coils (via the bulb in the dash) and uses mechanical power from the engine to amplify this current to recharge the battery.

As with all electronics a complete circuit needs to be made for current to flow. So although the light is working that only proves the field side is working. The stator side might still have a problem not highlighted by the bulb.

They're not complex beasts nor expensive. Might be worth taking it off and dismantling it to see of there's anything obviously wrong and give it a clean up.

Plenty of guides in testing diode packs online. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi

16th Apr 2016 2:54pm

The Hulk

Member Since: 13 Apr 2016
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 81

This is covered on another thread but it's more relevant here so I'll make the point for others looking...

The problem was not a duff alternator but a POOR EARTH connection between the battery -ve and the gearbox. A very simple fix with a socket set and some electrocal contact cleaner (or WD40 if that's all you have). The Earth cable is about 20" long and runs from the battery to the gearbox via a chassis clamp. Make sure these connections are good or you can experience all sorts of problems.

I was going to buy a new alternator this weekend but it would have made no difference and would also have shown to be not registering a charge voltage. I suspect the lack of a good earth from engine to battery had stopped the alternator from doing its job properly? Mid Life; Live It!

Ongoing thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic45697.html
110 300Tdi Utility (Hulk)
90 300Tdi SW (GF's Tank)

30th Apr 2016 1:42pm

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