 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > output shaft replacement. Change the clutch as well? |
 
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971   
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I had the shaft done when I had my clutch done, but you don't have to by any means. It's perfectly possible to do one without the other. I did them both together so I knew it was all good down there and it saved a bit of work over having them done separately.
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21st Mar 2016 2:00pm |
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| mees Member Since: 04 Mar 2011 Location: sdijk Posts: 38  
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yes the other way around is easier to decide
how much work is it extra to do the clutch as well? |
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21st Mar 2016 4:11pm |
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| Shax Member Since: 05 Oct 2010 Location: London Posts: 391  
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Most of the hard bits are already done taking the transfer box off..
The three bolts on top of the GB are the awkward sodz.. You'll need a long extension bar, and a jack to lower the GB to give access to them.. With the TB off, you can sit under the car and look along the GB.. Do them first!! While you are at it, you may as well change the release bearing / cylinder as well.. With the shaft kit, make sure you don't nick the oil seal when you install it.. Or it'll leak like a tramp after twelve pints! ... ,-------, .. I [__][_]|__ .. I __ |"_|"__| .. "(o)====(o)" ^^_-^-_^-^_^^^^^--^^^^ PAUL G7ALW 14.200 USB 26FB458 / 27.275 SSB |
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21st Mar 2016 9:47pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7687 
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I dropped gbox and tbox together and did two at same time slave and the restrictor valve also changed, but that was at 55k miles. At your distance I would just drop t box change coupling and leave rest. Cheers
James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
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22nd Mar 2016 8:02am |
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| rover Member Since: 26 May 2012 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 146
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Heard people say its lack of grease that causes the shaft to wear. Is it possible and/or beneficial to try and squirt some lubricant of some sort in there.
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22nd Mar 2016 2:43pm |
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| mees Member Since: 04 Mar 2011 Location: sdijk Posts: 38
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ok many thanks for the replies
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22nd Mar 2016 3:44pm |
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| Way of life Member Since: 07 Sep 2015 Location: Halifax NS Posts: 22  
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Hello about to change my MT82 out of my 2007 for a 2015 take out.
All the new gear will be going in. How much time will it take me and a friend who works on Fords to take it out and reinstall the LT230 and bolt it back in, just a idea, we will drink beer after. Thanks |
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22nd Mar 2016 11:23pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7687
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gbox out and swap t box on the end of it, 4hrs for two of you on puma Cheers
James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
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24th Mar 2016 6:09pm |
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| familymad Member Since: 13 Dec 2011 Location: Bucks Posts: 3464  
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Trying to work out the extra labour on the clutch job over just the output shaft. Any rough idea? Mine is on the ramps this week for output shaft and might consider asking for he clutch to be done too. 1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI 1995 90 300TDI |
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15th Jun 2016 9:06pm |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 09 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2260 |
dont you need special tools to change the shaft!or are there workarounds to all of them?anybody got a how to!
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15th Jun 2016 11:32pm |
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| Fatboy Slim Member Since: 04 Feb 2008 Location: Bridgend Posts: 1006 
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I've changed dozens of them and never had any special tools other than a rattle gun and an oven
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16th Jun 2016 7:23am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16884 
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It is useful to have the special tool for holding the splined adaptor on the back of the gearbox whilst unscrewing the centre bolt, but it is not essential; it just makes the job easier. Aside from that, the only tools you need are tools that you'd expect to find in a reasonably well-equipped workshop (if all you have is a Halfords super-duper socket set, you may struggle, if you also have a decent trolley or transmission jack, and a two- or three-leg puller, you'll be OK).
I would estimate that to change the clutch at the same time would probab;y add two to three man-hours to the job, since it entails some dismantling of the interior to remove the gear change mechanism, removal of the front section of the exhaust pipe (which is not essential just to do output shaft) disconnection of the clutch hydraulics, and removal of the gearbox then clutch. If you do get the clutch changed, it is advisabe to get the slave cylinder and the restrictor valve on the hydraulic line changed at the same time. |
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16th Jun 2016 9:06am |
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| Fabio Member Since: 05 Aug 2011 Location: Somerset Posts: 589 
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Hi
I've just picked up my defender after the a clutch and output shaft change and 762£ poorer... 
What a difference and how nice does the defender drive compared to what it use to. I am impressed just wondering how long it will last...
Fabio |
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16th Jun 2016 9:20pm |
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| KGH Member Since: 01 Feb 2015 Location: Florida Keys Posts: 61  
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I have warranty issues with JLR and dealer, so I purchased items myself.
I will have a local shop do the work. Clutch, spigot bearing, slave and associated bits, and Ashcroft Shaft kit. If its coming apart, it's getting preventive on all the bits. I also got a nice message from a forum member recommending a nearby indy shop. That is why Defender owners rock! Always helpful. 2013 110 - Keswick Green 1995 ExRAF 110 Utility 1986 127 HCPU 1985 110 PU 2012 Disco4 |
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18th Jun 2016 12:01pm |
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