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fathaggis



Member Since: 31 May 2015
Location: taynuilt
Posts: 385

Scotland 
thnaks mate Thumbs Up
Post #480789 9th Dec 2015 8:45pm
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ibexman



Member Since: 13 Dec 2008
Location: kent
Posts: 2872

United Kingdom 
epictrail wrote:
Translation:

Ventilation and heating of the interior of a Land Rover Defender depends on the heater fan. This heater fan speed is adjustable by means of a position switch that can run softer fan via resistors.
This rule is also the source of a poor and inefficient working fan making ventilation, heating and demisting of the vehicle is inadequate. Only in the TD4 models from Land Rover is an adaptation came on the stove and fan unit, for all Defender models to TD4 we have devised an electronic control.

This electronic control replaces the existing switch and control resistors and sends the current fan motor directly. This direct control of the fan motor will be adjustable and in many cases have a higher air output. As a result demisting will function better and the interior heater to get a better return so that the vehicle can be quickly heated.

The application of this modification requires some skill and assembly tools, so this modification includes assembly can be purchased in our workshop in Dordrecht.



So does it come with fitting instructions ?
Post #480793 9th Dec 2015 8:59pm
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Gareth



Member Since: 12 Dec 2011
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 1038

England 2003 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Oslo Blue
Yes it does - In Dutch!!

I have one on the shelf in the garage. I was hoping for some English instructions, but not had time to find any yet. 2021 Defender 110 X-Dynamic HSE D300 MHEV
1966 S2a 109 aka Betsy
1968 S2a 88 aka Bob
2014 Jaaaag F Type 3.0 Supercharged.
Post #480880 10th Dec 2015 12:49am
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epictrail



Member Since: 21 Sep 2013
Location: High Wycombe
Posts: 395

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 110 Td5 HT Chawton White
ibexman wrote:

So does it come with fitting instructions ?




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Post #481260 11th Dec 2015 11:36am
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ibexman



Member Since: 13 Dec 2008
Location: kent
Posts: 2872

United Kingdom 
Quite a bit of work then is it that much better
Post #481271 11th Dec 2015 12:06pm
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epictrail



Member Since: 21 Sep 2013
Location: High Wycombe
Posts: 395

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 110 Td5 HT Chawton White
No idea as i don't have it fitted or intend to fit it. Very Happy
Post #481282 11th Dec 2015 12:53pm
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gazman



Member Since: 17 Aug 2015
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 652

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 HT Alpine White
What about the cable that operates the flap? Do you just leave it open? 2014 - current ..... 2003 defender td5 90 (my car)
2009 - current .... 2005 zx10r
Post #481648 12th Dec 2015 11:39pm
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Justtellme



Member Since: 23 Nov 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 305

Canada 2003 Defender 110 Td5 SW Oslo Blue
Looks like it says that in the first paragraph.
Disconnect cable and push in completely so air valve(flap?) remains open and is no longer used.
"Valve and cable will no longer be used."
Patrick
Post #481670 13th Dec 2015 7:16am
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gazman



Member Since: 17 Aug 2015
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 652

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 HT Alpine White
Ah thanks. I'm using a mobile phone so I can't read them properly 2014 - current ..... 2003 defender td5 90 (my car)
2009 - current .... 2005 zx10r
Post #481799 13th Dec 2015 4:17pm
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4RF RDS



Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 898

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Epsom Green
I just received my kit from Landreiziger for the variable fan speed slider control. I installed the switch this afternoon, what an excellent upgrade. Cannot recommend it enough. Increases the fan speed appreciably and the variability of the slide control is just great. The install was super easy and the kit is set up to be simple.

The step by step instructions, which were included, are ok but not great. Still it was rather simple to figure out.

Following the instructions I removed the gauge cluster and undid the existing fan speed switch and pushed the cable all the way in. This is an important step as if it is out, you won't have any airflow.


Click image to enlarge


Next I installed the new slider control switch. Important to note that the instructions were not clear on which way to install it, be sure to put the two wires on the bottom, otherwise your fan speed graphic in the dash will be reversed (ask me how I know).


Click image to enlarge


I ran the wiring loom through the grommet at the bulkhead after spraying a bit of silicone on the opening to ease the pulling of the wires. The wire has a cable tie wrap heat shrinked to the three wire loom for super easy insertion through the mess of wires in the dash. This is a great feature which I will use in the future (one of those why didn't I think of this years ago moments).

The three pronged plug is ready to receive the wires and you just insert them and plug it into the switch.


Click image to enlarge


Next move to the engine bay and run the new wiring loom along the bulkhead to the fan and heater control box. Once done unplug the wires as indicated in the instructions and cut the bullet connector wires as shown below and then add on a crimped spade connector (these were not included in the kit). Connect the wires according to the colour codes indicated on the control unit.


Click image to enlarge


Clean the side of the air box with a good degreaser, I used brake cleaner. Position the new control unit and center punch the four holes for drilling.


Click image to enlarge


Drill the four holes, this can be a challenge if you have LHD with a snorkel.


Click image to enlarge


I chose to tap the holes for the suplied machine screws but they also provide sheet metal screws if you would prefer that. The drill to use is a 3/32 or 2.5mm. The tap was an M3.


Click image to enlarge


Once done, add some thermal paste (not included in my kit as it had to be shipped to me overseas and it is considered "hazardous" by some countries) and screw the new control unit to the heater box.


Click image to enlarge


Last to do is to choose a grounding location on the firewall. Stay away from using a wing ground. I chose the upper wing anchor bolt at the bulkhead.


Click image to enlarge


You are now done! Check out your easy to slide switch and improved airflow, defrosting and heating.

I chose to add a few trim screws to the blank holes left by the removal of the original switch as I just don't like holes on my dash.


Click image to enlarge


This is an excellent mod and although a bit pricey, I cannot recommend it enough. Hope this is useful to some.

Cheers. 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)
1967 MGB GT

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956)


Last edited by 4RF RDS on 11th Jan 2016 1:00pm. Edited 5 times in total
Post #489235 6th Jan 2016 4:32pm
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Anderzander



Member Since: 08 Feb 2011
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 999

United Kingdom 
I have one fitted - I love it !
Post #489376 6th Jan 2016 10:55pm
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Screbble



Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2028

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
4RF RDS wrote:
I just received my kit from Landreiziger for the variable fan speed slider control. I installed the switch this afternoon, what an excellent upgrade. Cannot recommend it enough. Increases the fan speed appreciably and the variability of the slide control is just great. The install was super easy and the kit is set up to be simple.

The step by step instructions, which were included, are ok but not great. Still it was rather simple to figure out.

Following the instructions I removed the gauge cluster and undid the existing fan speed switch and pushed the cable all the way in. This an imporant step as if it is out, you won't any airflow.


Click image to enlarge


Next I installed the new slider control switch. Important to note that the instructions were not clear on which way to install it, be sure to put the two wires on the bottom, otherwise your fan speed graphic in the dash will be reversed (ask me how I know).


Click image to enlarge


I ran the wiring loom through the grommet at the bulkhead after spraying a bit of silicone on the opening to ease the pulling of the wires. The wire has a cable tie wrap heat shrinked to the three wire loom for super easy insertion through the mess of wires in the dash. This is a great feature which I will use in the future (one of those why didn't I think of this years ago moments).

The three pronged plug is ready to receive the wires and you just insert them and plug it into the switch.


Click image to enlarge


Next move to the engine bay and run the new wiring loom along the bulkhaed to the fan and heater control box. Once done unplug the wires as indicated in the instructions and cut the bullet connector wires as shown below and then add on a crimped spade connector (these were not included in the kit). Connect the wires according to the colour codes indicated on the control unit.


Click image to enlarge


Clean the side of the air box with a good degreaser, I used brake cleaner. Position the new control unit and center punch the four holes for drilling.


Click image to enlarge


Drill the four holes, this can be a challenge if you have LHD with a snorkel.


Click image to enlarge


I chose to tap the holes for the suplied machine screws but they also provide sheet metal screws if you would prefer that. The drill to use is a 3/32 or 2.5mm. The tap was an M3.


Click image to enlarge


Once done, add some thermal paste (not included in the kit) and screw the new control unit to the heater box.


Click image to enlarge


Last to do is to choose a grounding location on the firewall. Stay away from using a wing ground. I chose the upper wing anchor bolt at the bulkhead.


Click image to enlarge


You are now done! Check out your easy to slide switch and improved airflow, defrosting and heating.

I chose to add a few trim screws to the blank holes left by the removal of the original switch as I just don't like holes on my dash.


Click image to enlarge


This is an excellent mod and although a bit pricey, I cannot recommend it enough. Hope this is useful to some.

Cheers.


Fantastic write up. Very helpful Thumbs Up

I've been tempted to buy one myself, and if I ever do, your step by step guide will prove invaluable! Bow down
Post #489401 6th Jan 2016 11:34pm
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4RF RDS



Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 898

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Epsom Green
Also important to note that my Webasto pre-heater was unaffacted by this mod. All works as it should. 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)
1967 MGB GT

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956)
Post #489448 7th Jan 2016 2:32am
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Justtellme



Member Since: 23 Nov 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 305

Canada 2003 Defender 110 Td5 SW Oslo Blue
Excellent write up!
Looks like I'll need to purchase one now...looks like they are about 1.5 hours from me.
Patrick
Post #489493 7th Jan 2016 9:40am
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4RF RDS



Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 898

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Epsom Green
End note to installation:

I have recently been in touch with the vendor ( Martin) and he informs me that the thermal paste was not included in my kit as it has been problematic for overseas shipping. So if you order it and you are in Europe you should get the paste.

Thumbs Up 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)
1967 MGB GT

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956)
Post #490953 11th Jan 2016 1:05pm
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