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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2026  
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 Click image to enlarge 2016 D4 HSE 1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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10th Aug 2015 11:45am |
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| couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1826 
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One way, although maybe not the best..!
Take the existing wire, strip it and then bend in back on itself and add the third wire. Then you have an "end" over which you can fit the heat shrink. The other option if you want to keep it as a "T" is to use self amalgamating tape and wrap it around the joint. I've used this when wiring my house with satellite cables and it did a great job of sealing the cable to the connectors. cheers simon |
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10th Aug 2015 11:49am |
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| Likeomg Member Since: 29 Jun 2012 Location: Lake District / Newcastle Posts: 2655 
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id just bend the wire back on itself use some fairly tight heat shrink
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10th Aug 2015 11:53am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20795
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I'd say self amalgamating tape, think there is such a thing as heatshrinking tape too.
I personally would keep the joint parallel use regularheatshrink tubing. (Adhesive one) providing you can slip it over. Add a very small amount of silicone inside each end just enough to create a watertight seal but also allow the heatshrink to grip. For this reason use a longer piece. Perhaps finish off with a small zip tie where both wires exit either under the heatshrink or over the top in case of cable stress on the entry / exit of the tubing. Other than that we're talking one of those scotchlock connector things and they aren't waterproof either. |
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10th Aug 2015 11:53am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
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you cant heatshrink with wires like that
if you can unpick one end of the wire your soldering to then you could slide up a bit of heat shrink , so joint would be one wire in one end of shrink two out of other end or cut wire then re-join after putting on shrink tube or use tape , personally I would use cloth tape as it fits better round odd shapes like this eBay item number: eBay Item No. 191480932113 |
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10th Aug 2015 11:55am |
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| Roy5695 Member Since: 15 Feb 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 1123 
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Id use the self amalgimating tape, or I'd place the heat shrink tube on it, one wire at one end and two coming out the other, using a good sealer, I'd recomend raychem glue to do the sealing...
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10th Aug 2015 11:58am |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2026
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It's not possible to bend the feed wire back on itself as there's not enough wire to play with to do that.
I could just cut the feed wire I suppose but I wanted to do it as neatly as possible. Thanks for the ideas. 2016 D4 HSE 1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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10th Aug 2015 12:02pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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if your taking a feed off another wire then really you should fuse that wire as any short will go back the feeding wire
so take feed off then fuse then connect your extra wire to the fuse , also that way you will be able to use bit extra length of wire you need what is the wire for your adding ? what is the wire your taking feed from ? |
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10th Aug 2015 12:40pm |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2026
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I am going to take the sidelight feed to power Halo LEDs in my new LED headlights so they come on under sidelight operation (not doing them as DRLs) 2016 D4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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10th Aug 2015 12:45pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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are they a drl or sidelight , 2 different things really ( using filament bulbs as a example then a sidelight is 5watt ,drl is 21watt )
drl tend to be a lot brighter than a sidelight , hence why a drl must dim or go off when sidelights are switched on there are also regulations on how close a drl ( or a light as bright as a drl ) can be to a indicator lamp what would you prefer using then as sidelight or drl lamp ? because if you wanted them as a proper function drl you could fit a drl controller which are fairly easy to fit Last edited by munch90 on 10th Aug 2015 12:58pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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10th Aug 2015 12:54pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17754 
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Adhesive heatshrink will form a watertight seal if properly shrunk anyway, if you add silicone all you'll do is stop the sleeve from bonding to the underlying insulation thereby reducing the liklihood of a watertight seal. You may find, if shrinking adhesive heatshrink round parallel conductors, that it is worth pressing the heatshrink firmly between finger and thumb immediately the heat source is removed to get a really good seal. Be careful or you may burn your finger and thumb though if you're using the right amount of heat and you're not used to doing this. Using the correct amount of heat from an appropriate source is critical to the success of the sleeving. In 4x4 circles there is widespread use of utterly unsuitable heat sources (naked flames, soldering irons, etc). If you can't afford a proper hot air gun designed for the job, a hot air paintstripper gun used carefully on the low heat is probably the best. Too much heat and you will compromise the insulation of the wire, too little and you'll simply not get a good shrink. The latter is less damaging than the former. Over the course of 20 years in the telecomms industry and 15 years in Defence I have seen literally thousands of pounds of expensive cables destroyed by people using the wrong tools to heat heatshrink sleeving. As far as the OP's question is concerned, I would either find a different solution to the problem altogether (locate the end of the wire and connect there, for example) or cut and splice. |
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10th Aug 2015 12:56pm |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2026
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I am happy to use a switched sidelight way of using these, rather thanhave them as DRL's. I bought them from Flat Dog and when I spoke to them @ Billing they said they just wire them into the sidelight circuit as the Halo ring has a separate pair of cables, the LED headlamp has a standard 3 blade H4 connector. http://www.flatdoguk.com/led-%2B-angel-eye...--rhd~1527 2016 D4 HSE 1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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10th Aug 2015 1:11pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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so you are joining the wires from halo in to the sidelight wires under the wing
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10th Aug 2015 1:19pm |
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| Browny90 Member Since: 20 Jul 2015 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 183 
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You cant use heat shrink in that situation.. just cut it and make a 'Y' Junction then you can make a really solid join that's nice and water tight..
When I worked for Scania Trucks.. I did breakdowns, so was forever searching for other peoples poor repair, but I always made sure I did a really good job of sealing joins.. I Used these.. http://www.hilltop-products.co.uk/heat-shr...ciabY1wadI Blue or Yellow will be best for making a junction depending on the gauge of the wire you're using.. they generally have an adhesive so when you heat it, it shrinks and melts the adhesive to make a nice seal... A small amount or decent sealant will seal the deal  (Tiger Seal, Flexibond etc) then after use amalgamating tape. Its worth the extra effort so you (or whoever you sell to) doesn't have to spent hours looking for issues from green corroded connectors..
Also put it somewhere easy to get to for the same reasons as above.. My 1986 90 is currently on a full rebuild, with new chassis, Paint etc.. Very much a hybrid, TD5 Chassis, tub & bulkhead with a 200TDI and LT77 GB Painted in Stornoway Grey 2 years off the road, but getting close to completion now |
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10th Aug 2015 1:43pm |
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