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Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6681 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Are you taking the feed from near the sidelight connector (or can you)?
For the "neatest" installation, build a small loom with a plug and socket, straight through except for the "T" off of the sidelight feed that you need. ![]() ![]() |
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Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6681 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I am missing something or did you not mention that before, and if so what you asked isn't a problem now?
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couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1830 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Martin, I guess you mean a "Y" loom with a plug/socket at both end so no need to splice the existing loom..?
I bought such a loom for just this purpose, or buy the plug/sockets and make your own. It's reversible then if you decide to take the lights out at a later stage. Cheers Simon |
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Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6681 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Precisely
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RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2028 ![]() ![]() |
![]() All's well that ends well anyway 2016 D4 HSE 1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1830 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
So, it's not clear why you needed to splice into the existing side light harness if you are putting the "Y" cable in.
By this cable I mean you plug one end (the bottom of the Y) into the existing plug ( that goes to the existing side light) then plug on of the Ys to the existing side light and the other of the Ys to the new positioning light in your headlights. It's all plug and play. Or is that what you did in the end..? Cheers Simon |
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RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2028 ![]() ![]() |
I don't have all the bits yet but yes, basically that's what I am doing, but I will be splicing the cables. Just a simple piggyback design you see..
A home made version of this: http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/mud-stu...-loom.html ![]() ![]() 1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 858 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Cut the main wire and use a crimp to join it back together with two wires one side and one the other, use a crimp with adhesive lining when heated this will perfectly seal the joint
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RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2028 ![]() ![]() |
That's just as permanent as me simply soldering a join and heat shrinking though, rather than a solution where I can unplug if I need to remove them. 2016 D4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1830 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Good stuff, here are the ones I have...same sort of idea. Cost £22 delivered from Peter @ Nakatanenga
![]() Click image to enlarge Cheers Simon |
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munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 ![]() ![]() |
Econoseal connectors
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apt100 Member Since: 05 Mar 2015 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 1547 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
T transition breakouts are available, but you have been given plenty of other workable solutions.
for example http://uk.farnell.com/te-connectivity-rayc...dp/1296869 ![]() Click image to enlarge http://www.te.com/usa-en/search.html?q=tra...e=products |
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Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6681 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
£13 each
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apt100 Member Since: 05 Mar 2015 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 1547 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
TE make top quality stuff, often used in aerospace or military applications etc.
Probably not viable for the OP, but thought I would post it up for interest ![]() |
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