 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Replacement Rear Door TD5 to Puma? |
 
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| Anderzander Member Since: 08 Feb 2011 Location: Lancashire Posts: 1000  
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Well done both of you !
Sotry if I've missed it, but where did you get the door? |
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17th Jan 2016 11:56am |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637  
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Hi,
I bought it from SP land rovers in June this year. Worth keeping an eye for them, sometimes they have OEM doors, but my is a proper LR door (eye watering cost). Door part number is:- LR036310 GENUINE DEFENDER 90 110 TD5 ONE PIECE REAR DOOR Cheers Andy |
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17th Jan 2016 7:32pm |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Hi all,
Just looking to buy some new bits for the rear door. I'm buying the following new:- 1) Windscreen wiper motor - AMR3676 2) Windscreen Wiper Arm - PRC8558 3) Stainless Steel bolts M6 x 25mm (for holding the wiper motor); 4) Stainless Steel bolts for the door Hinges; 5) Hinge refurbishment kit (will put new spring and pins into the hinges at same time as doing the door); 6) Wiring?? 7) Door lock (on its way);  Torsion bar
With reference to the wiring loom, can i ask what functionality the new relay brings? My current wiper, does wash and wipe via a switch on the dash (no surprise), my landy is 2001, so I was hoping it would be plug and play, but I'm not so sure!!! Cheers Andy |
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17th Jan 2016 9:01pm |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Sounds good to me, no point in buying something i don't need. Thanks for the info. Cheers Andy |
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17th Jan 2016 10:15pm |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Hi all,
Looking for some advice. Have finished building the rear door, i started looking at the hinge holes and the top two holes look like the internal strength member is out of line!! I can move the strength member with a bar if I'm careful, but it springs back into position. Is this a design feature to apply tension to the door hinge bolts somehow, like keeping the door from rattling?? View from outside (top holes)  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge View from inside (top holes) Click image to enlarge Thanks in advance. Cheers Andy |
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23rd Jan 2016 12:21am |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2748
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No, just slightly out of place when assembled.
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23rd Jan 2016 1:34am |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Ok, so not a problem provided i can get the bolts fitted then?
I bought a genuine new door to avoid poo like this! Provided it fits ok, then its alright. Given its painted and assembled, to notice this now is a bit frustrating 
Cheers Andy |
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23rd Jan 2016 7:51am |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2748
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Not a problem no. The solution would have been to run an 8.5mm drill through the holes to ensure clearance. However as you say a bit of an issue once painted/finished.
It's a Land Rover panel, poor construction & tolerances is part of the service. |
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23rd Jan 2016 10:34am |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Hey guys,
Door fitted, no major headaches, just took my time. Enlisted my 11 year old, he did well again 
Only issue i have found now is the door lock. Look at the door lock, the key holder is sitting high and not centre of the hole. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The is no slop in the holes holding the lock in place. the inly thing i could do is to elongate the bolt holes on the lock. The door does close, but it is hard to close, it needs a good slam, there is no slop in the hinges, i have tightened them all up and replaced the old pins and balls. What can or should i do? I still need to fit the lock barrel to the lock. PS I could try and elongate the striker holes so the striker could be dropped a few mm. Cheers Andy |
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23rd Jan 2016 8:10pm |
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