 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Welding the turbo? |
 
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731   
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If I never manage to seal my turbo to the exhaust manifold (I truly am cursed) can anyone think of good reasons why I shouldn't just have the joint welded once and for all? I realise the warranty on the turbo will be void. Would the weld hold up to 1000+ Celcius?
Cheers Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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8th Jul 2014 6:19pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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 Cheers - at least I can scrap that idea then 
Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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8th Jul 2014 8:11pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
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is your turbo still blowing ?
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8th Jul 2014 9:03pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018  
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Maybe some sort of u shaped clamp over the flange, especially if it was heated and then cooled to a shrink fit.
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8th Jul 2014 9:24pm |
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| Alive Tuning Member Since: 01 Mar 2010 Location: Louth Posts: 610
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1000 degrees!
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8th Jul 2014 9:30pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Just to be on the safe side Gary
I'm considering fitting a Stack exhaust gas thermometer but I'm not sure it's worth it...
@munch90 - Yep, I fitted the Nakatanenga gasket this morning but there is still a very slight leak (no screaming though) so I'll just have to see how it goes over the next few days. @Supacat - also my thoughts. I have a "spare" turbo and exhaust manifold to practice on and want to design some kind of gas-tight reinforcement. Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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8th Jul 2014 11:28pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347 
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The weld would but the aluminium casting will have dissolved
Just a thought, but if your looking at welding it you are looking at some serious work. Why not try ether going to a exhaust specialist and get a fabricated manifold with a much thicker flange on it to withstand the heat, maybe looking at stainless steel. I make loads of custom exhaust flanges from stainless steel at work and they are all about 12-10mm stainless steel. That said, that casting should not warp that much. Try taking it to a machine shop and get them to shot blast it to remove the outer skin of the metal and then get it skimmed flat. Most metal stressing is due to the outer few mm of the metal and this could be contributing factor to the warping. We have had sheets of steel at work climbing there way out of the tank due to the stress being released from the material when they are being cut so its not unreasonable. |
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8th Jul 2014 11:31pm |
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| Cheshire110 Member Since: 26 Jul 2013 Location: London Posts: 2788
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just out of interest, what kind of symptoms/problems does a leak cause? down on power? noise? is it a genuine problem or just want it to be perfect? Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8. |
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8th Jul 2014 11:33pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Yep - if it leaks badly, I'll have it off, skim it and try again. Hopefully no more warping afterwards
 Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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8th Jul 2014 11:33pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Just bloody noisy when it starts, then quieter but smelly when it gets worse as the gases get into the cab. Power doesn't seem to be much affected though, even when the leak is bad.
*Edit* but "perfect" would be nice  Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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8th Jul 2014 11:35pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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I don't think it is. It would just be another peripheral gauge cluttering up the cab that you would be constantly distracted by due to your troubled history with the turbo. Unless of course it could be configured to some form of 'shutdown' but that would require ECU reprogramming perhaps? Don't any of the real time fault/condition readers display any temperatures you could relate to the turbo anyway? If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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9th Jul 2014 7:38am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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fit a turbo blower
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9th Jul 2014 7:49pm |
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| Roy5695 Member Since: 15 Feb 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 1123 
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Search google for v-band clamp. We use these at work to hold exhaust pipes onto jet engines, would do the trick I think...
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10th Jul 2014 1:02am |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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"Turbo blower"
A cooling fan for the turbo? Not sure a v-band clamp would work as the manifold joint is triangular - also the gap only has to be tiny to give the problem. Has given me an idea though. On the positive side, the Nakatanenga gasket is holding so far (doesn't quite pass the "spit test" though) and Pete has taken a little off the top end of the remap to save me from overworking the poor girl. When towing uphill, full of passengers at speed, something needs to say "stop"... *Edit* Mal - I know what you mean. Looking at the Scangauge too much is one of the reasons I only use it for "special occasions". If I fit an EGT gauge though, it will take its feed directly from the turbo housing, so it would be very accurate. Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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10th Jul 2014 6:49am |
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