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robtd590



Member Since: 28 Dec 2016
Location: Somerset
Posts: 26

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 HT Oslo Blue
Hi guys,

For those of you that have fitted a double din stereo in your defender td5 (2002 onwards).
I am wondering which adaptor plate to go for between the Raptor full size plate or the Mud single din fascia plate and have to modify it. Other than the price difference and work involved is one better than the other?

Cheers
Post #588439 29th Dec 2016 5:03pm
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pj2106



Member Since: 20 Dec 2012
Location: Huntingdon AKA The Shire
Posts: 1500

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
I have used both in 2 of my td5s the mud one is a bit more faf to cut etc where the raptorone is done unless you have a oversized/din unit which mine was and needed to be cut still

I think it's personal choice I think now my raptor one is the right size and colour coded to the car it is my preference

Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
 2008 110 2.4 XS Utility (Hagrid)
2002 90 TD5 Hardtop (Sully) Sold
1998 300TDi D1 (Billy) Sold
Post #588461 29th Dec 2016 6:12pm
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robtd590



Member Since: 28 Dec 2016
Location: Somerset
Posts: 26

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 HT Oslo Blue
Thanks for the info and pics. I think I prefer the raptor one although it would be nice to try and minimise the screw heads, did think about counter sunk screws but not sure if either adaptor plates are thick enough to do this.
Post #588475 29th Dec 2016 6:44pm
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Tiger



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265

2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
Both look pretty shonky and 'bolted on'

I think the ultimate way of doing this is to use the OE plastic, glue, fill, sand and paint.

Eastcoast Rovers did one, sits low though due to hazard switch.



Last edited by Tiger on 29th Dec 2016 6:54pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #588478 29th Dec 2016 6:49pm
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mactheknife



Member Since: 08 Jul 2016
Location: Somerset
Posts: 51

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 110 2.5 TD CSW Baltic Blue
You could countersink the raptor one. Its thick enough. You'll need screws with the thread all the way up to the head though.
Post #588479 29th Dec 2016 6:51pm
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pj2106



Member Since: 20 Dec 2012
Location: Huntingdon AKA The Shire
Posts: 1500

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
I did think about using a bonding agent to avoid screw heads but if need to remove would be a faf as I've bonded the radio cage to it for more security

I'm going to colour code the screws anyways tbh so didn't really matter to me

I'll post some pics of it fitted when I get round to fitting it back in 2008 110 2.4 XS Utility (Hagrid)
2002 90 TD5 Hardtop (Sully) Sold
1998 300TDi D1 (Billy) Sold
Post #588499 29th Dec 2016 7:36pm
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pj2106



Member Since: 20 Dec 2012
Location: Huntingdon AKA The Shire
Posts: 1500

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
The other option is pop rivet it in which I've also considered 2008 110 2.4 XS Utility (Hagrid)
2002 90 TD5 Hardtop (Sully) Sold
1998 300TDi D1 (Billy) Sold
Post #588501 29th Dec 2016 7:37pm
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robtd590



Member Since: 28 Dec 2016
Location: Somerset
Posts: 26

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 HT Oslo Blue
Thanks for all your thoughts.
I do like the idea of the Raptor plate as it is full size and will beef up the plastic centre dash and with the extra size and weight of a double din, I think it will be just the job, and if I was able to use black countersink screws then that would be the way I would probably go.
Post #588509 29th Dec 2016 7:51pm
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mactheknife



Member Since: 08 Jul 2016
Location: Somerset
Posts: 51

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 110 2.5 TD CSW Baltic Blue
To be honest I haven't noticed the screws on mine. It all blends in with the original dash once its in.
Post #588512 29th Dec 2016 8:06pm
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robtd590



Member Since: 28 Dec 2016
Location: Somerset
Posts: 26

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 HT Oslo Blue
That's good now, It's probably me being over fussy...it is a Defender after all.
Can you see your screen ok? I know it sits lower in the dash so to clear the backs of top switches.
Post #588520 29th Dec 2016 8:20pm
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Anderzander



Member Since: 08 Feb 2011
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 999

United Kingdom 
This is very well done:

http://landreiziger.nl/2011/06/pioneer-appradio/

And here's one they put an extra row of switches on:

http://landreiziger.nl/atelier-modificatie...s/#image-8
Post #588533 29th Dec 2016 8:50pm
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robtd590



Member Since: 28 Dec 2016
Location: Somerset
Posts: 26

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 HT Oslo Blue
That does look good. I wonder how strong the plastic is with some of it being cut out and with the extra size and weight of the double din unit.
Post #588555 29th Dec 2016 9:38pm
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Justtellme



Member Since: 23 Nov 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 305

Canada 2003 Defender 110 Td5 SW Oslo Blue
Is that a CB radio installed in the dash with the extra row of switches? Is that why that blank space is there on the TD5 dash under the radio?
Patrick
Post #588557 29th Dec 2016 9:39pm
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mactheknife



Member Since: 08 Jul 2016
Location: Somerset
Posts: 51

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 110 2.5 TD CSW Baltic Blue
I can't see the top 5mm of mine. I'm 6'2" and have the higher seat rails fitted.
Doesn't bother me, the only stuff there is the task bar and you don't need it when driving, you can also see it if you swipe down. Not a show stopper as far as I was concerned.
Post #588585 29th Dec 2016 10:46pm
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robtd590



Member Since: 28 Dec 2016
Location: Somerset
Posts: 26

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 HT Oslo Blue
I have the seat raisers in mine also but I am 2" shorter so like you say, I doubt it will be that much of an issue.
Post #588592 29th Dec 2016 11:05pm
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