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Little Tom

Member Since: 20 Aug 2013
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 134

New Key

Hi,

Can anyone recomend an good auto locksmith in the Preston / Lancashire area? I now only have the key fob and ignition key and no door keys. If anyone knows of a better sollution I would be happy to hear from you.

Thanks

Tom Michael was just telling me a story about a friend of his who slept with a land rover, lonely nights in the desert..

14th Jan 2014 11:51am

davew

Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888

1990 Defender 90 V8 Petrol PU Auto Rioja Red

Just change the door lock barrels for a new set ? Probably much cheaper than a locksmith.

Assuming you have the early door locks where the ignition key and door keys are different a new set of 3 or 5 barrels with keys can be bought new for under 20 quid. When I bought a 5 barrel set each barrel came with a key (all the same as they were in a set) ! I had more spare keys than I knew what to do with

You could also change over to the later style barrels which is a more expensive option but you end up with a new ignition barrel and a set of door barrels, complete with new keys. the ignition key is then used for the doors too and is potentially marginally more secure. To use these on older Defenders will require replacement door handles and a replacement rear door lock mechanism so it's not a cheap option - think it cost me around £200 all in when I converted Pam's 90. You have to replace the handles and rear door lock because the newer barrels are longer and wider. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/

14th Jan 2014 12:46pm

geobloke

Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4406

Re: New Key

Little Tom wrote:
Hi,

Can anyone recomend an good auto locksmith in the Preston / Lancashire area? I now only have the key fob and ignition key and no door keys. If anyone knows of a better sollution I would be happy to hear from you.

Thanks

Tom

Hi Tom. If you have a TD5 then the ignition key is the door lock key as well. Is on mine anyway, 2002 TD5. Well it would do if some scroat hadn't stuck a screwdriver in the drivers door last year. Still opens the rear door though.

14th Jan 2014 12:49pm

Little Tom

Member Since: 20 Aug 2013
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 134

Thanks to you both for replies

. My old 2002 TD5 had a sperate key for the ignition and the door locks. This is my newer 2004 TD5 which didnt come with the door key. Ive tried the ignition ket in the door locks several times but it doesnt go all the way in, I've tried WD40 on it just to make sure but it still doesnt seem to work.

It hasnt bothered me too much as I have the remote but as time goes on I know im heading for trouble if I dont have a back up to the door remote. Looks like those replcament locks might be the answer unless anyone else can convince me to persist with the WD40 option?

Tom Michael was just telling me a story about a friend of his who slept with a land rover, lonely nights in the desert..

14th Jan 2014 2:52pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16884

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

If the lock barrel has siezed up it may take a lot of work (and WD40) to get any motion. When I bought my Puma, the previous owner hadn't used the key lock on the door for at least a year, possibly 3, and the key wouldn't go in. It took me about an hour of work with WD40 and the key to get some life back into it, but it did free off in the end. I now make sure that I use the key in the lock every now and again to make sure it doesn't seize. Just be careful not to apply excess force to the key when turning (I seem to remember that I did have to tap the key to get it all the way into the lock to start with).

I bought a complete keyed alike genuine steering lock assembly and drivers door lock barrel of Ebay at the time fo a very modest price - something like £25 IIRC - although I didn't actually need it in the end.

14th Jan 2014 3:07pm

Charlie Spitfire

Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Chartres
Posts: 55

2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green

Hmmm, this is interesting. I have been spraying releasing oil into my seized door lock for over week now and nothing gives. I have beeen a little bit nervous about forcing it with my ignition key to free it up. I take it then with patience and persistance it can be done with

up the ignition key. Very good to know thank you !

21st May 2015 6:16pm

mk1collector

Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

Yes, lots of patience and persistence as the locks probably have never been used due to central locking but they should free up eventually. Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html

21st May 2015 6:43pm

SteveK

Member Since: 21 Jan 2015
Location: Bromsgrove
Posts: 331

blackwolf wrote:
If the lock barrel has siezed up it may take a lot of work (and WD40) to get any motion. When I bought my Puma, the previous owner hadn't used the key lock on the door for at least a year, possibly 3, and the key wouldn't go in. It took me about an hour of work with WD40 and the key to get some life back into it, but it did free off in the end. I now make sure that I use the key in the lock every now and again to make sure it doesn't seize. Just be careful not to apply excess force to the key when turning (I seem to remember that I did have to tap the key to get it all the way into the lock to start with).

I bought a complete keyed alike genuine steering lock assembly and drivers door lock barrel of Ebay at the time fo a very modest price - something like £25 IIRC - although I didn't actually need it in the end.

This is interesting - my 2002 TD5 won't open by key on the passenger side, but works fine with the remote. The ign key works OK for the drivers and rear door though! I'd better go and stock up on WD40!!!

22nd May 2015 3:47pm

Supacat

Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green

Would some proper graphite made for locks be better than wd40?

22nd May 2015 5:26pm

mk1collector

Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

I'd use wd to get it moving then tonnes of brake cleaner in to degrease then leave to dry then add graphite powder Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html

22nd May 2015 8:19pm

SteveK

Member Since: 21 Jan 2015
Location: Bromsgrove
Posts: 331

Hmm WD40 hasn't done much so far! It feels like it is the wrong key - just won't move!!

22nd May 2015 11:44pm

Charlie Spitfire

Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Chartres
Posts: 55

So I squirted in releasing oil once a day for ten days and now the key goes in all the way. The lock doesn't turn though. I will keep squirting and gently turning and I will let you know.

23rd May 2015 11:37am

Charlie Spitfire

Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Chartres
Posts: 55

Still squirting oil into it, still can't turn the lock

2nd Jun 2015 10:52am

Grey110

Member Since: 20 Jun 2012
Location: Delft
Posts: 35

Sounds like an over sensitive anti theft mechanism. Did you try to reboot?

Martin

Previous 2003 Defender 110 Hardtop TD5
2004 Defender 110 Station Wagon TD5 - Libyan Sand
2005 Discovery 3 - V8 - Black

2nd Jun 2015 10:46pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19579

blackwolf wrote:
When I bought my Puma, the previous owner hadn't used the key lock on the door for at least a year, possibly 3, and the key wouldn't go in. It took me about an hour of work with WD40 and the key to get some life back into it, but it did free off in the end. I now make sure that I use the key in the lock every now and again to make sure it doesn't seize. Just be careful not to apply excess force to the key when turning (I seem to remember that I did have to tap the key to get it all the way into the lock to start with).

Good point, I don't think I've used the manual locks at all in 5 years!

I do now at least have three keys, one original Leyland type.

And two new style ones which Timpsons cut which was a good job!

2nd Jun 2015 10:57pm

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