 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Replacing rear capping |
 
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| Litch Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 760  
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Normal alloy rivets are fine, they are some of the few items that don't seem to suffer with corrosion.
Make sure you paint / treat all surfaces of the new capping before fitting. From the factory the capping is very poorly protected which is why it rusts, the underside is given just a quick blow-over before being fitted to the tub when the top-coat is applied. 12-Years ago I removed all my new capping and had it painted all over and then Waxoyled on the underside, a couple of years ago I removed it to have it galvanised and it was still like new. ONE LIFE, GET IT! |
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6th Aug 2013 8:18pm |
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| GUM97 Member Since: 05 Feb 2012 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3555  
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Mine wasn't painted on the underside at all
Basically, a case of drill out and replace rivets, and then paint and seal thoroughly! It does mean side panels and roof off though  Mainly because to get a drill in to drill the rivets out, you need plenty of access! Luckily I did mine when all of the panels were off! An engine to TDi for!
"Land Rover- Proudly turning drivers into mechanics since 1948"  |
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6th Aug 2013 8:32pm |
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| camelman Member Since: 27 Feb 2013 Location: Peak District Posts: 3326
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Out of interest, I waslooking at doing the same job but ran the grinder over the capping with a sanding disc on and is almost as good as new (and I haven't had too lift the roof!)
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6th Aug 2013 9:06pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5745 
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Sorry my bad, I meant the vertical capping that goes from the xmember upto the capping below the window capping.Is this still roof off? 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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6th Aug 2013 9:08pm |
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| GUM97 Member Since: 05 Feb 2012 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3555
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Ah, my bad
 IIRC no it's not, as it fits under the tub capping (the horizontal one that the sides sit on). Rivets drilled out, and then should pull downwards from under the tub capping and out  An engine to TDi for!
"Land Rover- Proudly turning drivers into mechanics since 1948" |
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6th Aug 2013 9:24pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5745
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Phew.......I did ponder using stainless dome head bolts and nylocs... But maybe some rivets will be easier.
Now. any idea of the size/length needed? 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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6th Aug 2013 9:37pm |
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| GUM97 Member Since: 05 Feb 2012 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3555
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Not 100% sure of rivet size, I'd go and check the sizes for you that I used, but I'm on holiday
Sorry! If you haven't got an answer when I get back ill let you know An engine to TDi for!
"Land Rover- Proudly turning drivers into mechanics since 1948" |
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7th Aug 2013 8:19am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5745
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I'm sure I can find out what the are. Enjoy your holiday. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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7th Aug 2013 10:22am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16892 
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My 07 DC has galvanised cappings (painted body colour) and was clearly built linke that from new, although the tailgate capping is un-galvanised painted body colour.
I have a suspicion that vehicles that leave the factory with tilts have galvanised painted cappings, and those which leave with hardtops have cappings which are only painted, but this is only a suspicion. Has anyone else (with a TC or DC) found that their cappings are galvanised? |
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7th Aug 2013 11:27am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240 
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The rivets that you want are blind rivets - so they don't let water in. These are the sort of thing:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-rover-defen...35bb6300ac Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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8th Aug 2013 9:53pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5745
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Blind rivets thats the one! cheers. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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9th Aug 2013 8:54am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5745
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Finally got around to replacing the rear capping on the 110 and while I was at it, I cleaned up the chequer plate on the rear and replaced the bolts with stainless hex heads.
Let the pictures speak for themselves. Old capping Click image to enlarge Old chequer plate & old bolts Click image to enlarge What lies beneath Click image to enlarge Off with the old Click image to enlarge Started the cleaning of the chequer plate Click image to enlarge Cleaned up (2nd time around. First time I thought it was cleaned and prepared enough, only to find when I applied the etch primer I could see bits of previous coating that had curled up a little so started again) Click image to enlarge Capping on and ready for rivets Click image to enlarge Chequer plate primed and almost ready Click image to enlarge Attached and ready for lights Click image to enlarge Chequer plate on with new stainless hex bolts Click image to enlarge Now I need to repaint the rear 1/4 panel, replace the decal as the old one has worn away. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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8th Sep 2013 9:39pm |
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| WarPig Member Since: 05 Dec 2009 Location: Sheffield Posts: 1748 
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Looks great
Did you have to pre spray the rivets before fitting them? |
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8th Sep 2013 10:43pm |
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| Lou Sparts Member Since: 15 Apr 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 1501 
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Nice job with good pics
Looks so much better. 2005 Td5 90 XS
Steve |
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8th Sep 2013 10:53pm |
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