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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16858   
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Grill and light trims are looking good.
You'd be better using a ceramic anti-seize such as Weicon that copperslip if you ever want to get your stainless fasteners out in the future. |
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1st Apr 2020 6:12pm |
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| ChrisDefender Member Since: 29 Oct 2015 Location: Midlands Posts: 445
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Hi mate,
Thank you. I like it. Not everyones cup of tea I suspect, but it still looks pretty original, just slightly textured as oppsed to faded and weathered! Ah, OK. It was the anti seize stuff that came with the stainless kit, silver in colour as opposed to the copper of copper grease, in little sachets (from 4x4 overland). I will see if I can get some of the stuff you say and swap them over again! Re above, just looked and its the Berner Anti-Seize stuff I have put on so hopefully should be OK! Thanks for your advice. Cheers. Last edited by ChrisDefender on 2nd Apr 2020 1:20pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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1st Apr 2020 6:34pm |
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| Zed Member Since: 07 Oct 2017 Location: In the woods Posts: 3009 
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Berner stuff is decent.
Nice job. WARNING. This post may contain sarcasm. |
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1st Apr 2020 6:59pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16858
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Yup, that's fine, it was the words "copper slip" that fooled me. If it was supplied by Nak or Brendan it'll be the right stuff.
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1st Apr 2020 7:40pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Why would you not use copper slip with stainless? I have a tub of the Weicon stuff I use if using stainless, but I did find myself wondering the other day if coppaslip would be just as good.
Is it because another metal is being added, and some other periodic table trickery? Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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1st Apr 2020 7:45pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16858
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There are other threads on here where people have explained it better than I can, but adding a third metal into the equation cannot be helpful. I know from my own experience (especially with my Patriot rack) that (a) copperslip really doesn't seem to stop stainless fittings cold welding themselves into aluminium and (b) I personally will never use a stainless threaded fastener on a Defender if I can help it, abominable things!
I accept that this is my personal opinion and there are many fans of them on here, but the hours I have spent drilling the blasted things out of my Patriot rack to replace them with BZP 8.8 steel (which don't cold weld themselves in place) have coloured my perspective. |
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1st Apr 2020 7:58pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
OK - I had started using SS in some places before picking up on the discussions of their suitability or otherwise; and independently of the forum I'd started to wonder if they were contributing to aluminium corrosion. So I'd then begun using nylon washers and duralac as a barrier.
Also a friend who was a mechanical engineer did once say not to use them where the active force was along the axis of the bolt - specifically tow ball mounting bolts. He reckoned they'd be OK where the force was across the bolt. Vaguely back on topic... I did nothing to my Defender today apart from adding more plusgas to the drop arm splines and the drag link ball joint. Though I did also take delivery of my Gwyn Lewis ...stainless steel... sumo bars! Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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1st Apr 2020 9:12pm |
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| 90 Dreamer Member Since: 13 Jul 2019 Location: Oop North Posts: 2050 
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I personally would not use SS in any kind of stressed application.........OK for show if you want that sort of thing
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1st Apr 2020 10:03pm |
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| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3611 
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I’m not sure I get the reticence to use stainless over steel from a strength perspective? Commonly used A2-70 SS bolts are 700N/mm2 tensile strength, which falls in between grade 5.8 and 8.8 MS bolts. The point being more than enough tensile capacity for anything at all on a Landrover, including the tow hitch. The trick is to torque them up correctly, which goes without saying whatever you use.
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2nd Apr 2020 6:13am |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731  
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Okay - not what I've actually done but rather what I'm going to attempt...
 Click image to enlarge At least I already know I'll have problems, as everything is totally rusted and two of the A-Bar torx screws had chewed heads when I fitted the intercooler  Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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2nd Apr 2020 6:59am |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Incidentally, on the topic of bi/trimetallic corrosion, I have used Duralac for 8 years between steel/aluminium/stainless and never once had corrosion. Amazing stuff... Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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2nd Apr 2020 7:22am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240 
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I'm not sure that it's quite that straightforward as stainless steel tends to be more brittle, for want of a better technical description, meaning it will fail more quickly as it reaches it's already typically lower load limit. For that reason, I wouldn't use them in areas likely to suffer shock loading such as towing or recovery points, for example. However, I agree that there are lots of LR applications where they're perfectly acceptable if installed with appropriate barriers between them and aluminium. Through my work, I've got some experience of using stainless steel bolts in harsh environments and the stress corrosion cracking that can result. By comparison, use on a LR even when exposed to water and road salt is pretty benign as long as separation of dissimilar metals is observed. As with ZeDefender above, I've had a lot of success with Duralac and strategically placed nylon washers. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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2nd Apr 2020 8:24am |
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| ChrisDefender Member Since: 29 Oct 2015 Location: Midlands Posts: 445
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Quick tip for thse who hate rattles!
If you check your front grill (standard type) it will probably rattle at the top edge where it hooks under the metalwork. I have just refurbished mine so while I am waiting for them to cure for a few days, I have added some heat shrink to the little tabs on the back that go under the metalwork to close the gap, and - no more rattle. Click image to enlarge |
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2nd Apr 2020 1:17pm |
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| Smilesapart Member Since: 28 Sep 2013 Location: Suffolk Posts: 735
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Lovely looking Beetle I'm seeing in the background there!  |
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2nd Apr 2020 3:29pm |
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