 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > winch not moving |
 
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Is there a chance that it simply needs a minimum level of amps (CCA) to start at all?
| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410  
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Does the winch use the tin can solenoids or the Albright style contactor packs? The only time I have had problems with a winch not moving is when a tin can seized up, which is quite a common occurrence. Either way it sounds as if there is no power getting to the motor or a bad earth. Double check your connections. |
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20th Feb 2013 10:47am |
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| Welshsurferdude Member Since: 23 Feb 2012 Location: Newport Posts: 2491 
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Could be the solenoid is it clicking?
I had the same problem with most winches i bought second hand, all were dead so replaced solenoids and all worked fine! 2011 Santorini Black USW XS. 2015 Discovery 4.5 Black pack Firenze red XS |
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20th Feb 2013 11:00am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17874 
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The XD9000i is prone to solenoid malfunctions especially if not used for a while. Sometimes a sharp tap with a hammer handle will make it work, sometimes a change in temp. Had this problem a few times with the dealer-fit winch on my Disco 2 and it is just one reason why I don't like the modern Warn range (with one exception) and won't buy another.
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20th Feb 2013 7:34pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8338  
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have a look in the bridge part where the solenoid is and see if you get any output with a volt meter when the handset is used.
if the solenoid is not clicking and/or there is no output to F1, F2 then solenoid is  .
check the handset is working, you can apply power direct to the switching side of the solenoids to over ride the hand set, if that works the winch then the handset is faulty. you dont need a min CCA to make it work. if Battery juice is low it will just turn slower which will kill any winch motor under load. Cheers James 110 2010 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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20th Feb 2013 9:35pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8338
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you could check the motor.
you can use a short jumper lead (one of the old 35mm2 cables?) plus jump leads Dont forget to put one of those old leads on the earth too! in essence to make the winch work the solenoids put 12v to F1 whilst simultaneously joining F2 and A to go one way. to make it rotate the other way join F1 and A and apply 12v to F2 if it doesnt turn the motor is goosed. Cheers James 110 2010 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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20th Feb 2013 9:37pm |
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| Dieselhead Member Since: 21 Oct 2012 Location: Pulborough. West Sussex Posts: 552 |
I think my winch is the same model
I have never tried it & the 1st owner only used it once Better try it this weekend just incase I have to pull someone out of a ditch or mybe myself  Chris
2008 XS 110 2.4 Utility. Tonga Green 1953 Series 1 for restoration 1983 Mini Mayfair 2004 VW T5 Camper 2008 Diahatsu Sirion. Thats hers Classic Bolens Garden Tractors |
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20th Feb 2013 10:02pm |
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| Marius Member Since: 21 Dec 2010 Location: South Africa Posts: 231  
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Ok so I took it off and opened it up. The idiot that I am......wired the incoming live to the wrong terminal.
It works now but I have a second problem. I just cant win. When I removed the live, the copper Terminal broke off to such an extent I can only screw the bolt in a third of the way onto the terminal. Can one replace only the terminal? Perhaps solder it on? Or a conducting glue? I uploaded a pic to my gallary. Not sure how to link it to this post. |
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21st Feb 2013 9:53am |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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Is the stud attached to the busbar or is the busbar bolted to the stud? If it's the first I would remove the busbar drill out/remove the terminal stud and replace it with a stainless bolt probably a countersunk head one. I would just for 'best practice' then if possible spin the busbar round and use the stainless replacement bolt/stud as the negative return. If the latter you would need to post more details or try to remove the remainder of the stud and replace it in it's entirety..
Picture posted for clarity..... 
 Click image to enlarge If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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21st Feb 2013 12:22pm |
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| Marius Member Since: 21 Dec 2010 Location: South Africa Posts: 231
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No the copper bolt is in bedded or coming out of the solenoid.
The bus bar is loose. So everything is pushed down by the nut. |
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21st Feb 2013 12:36pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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Not a chance it would never hold where it is and any electrical resistance would cause increased current draw and subsequently unnecessary heating of the stud. I would in that case strip the solenoid and replace the stud accordingly with a suitable stainless bolt/stud or try and source a replacement stud from the solenoid manufacturer or get one made. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! Last edited by K9F on 21st Feb 2013 1:10pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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21st Feb 2013 1:06pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8338
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Will the nut do up tight enough to hold the bus bar down?
personally i would replace the solenoids with an Albright. Cheers James 110 2010 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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21st Feb 2013 1:08pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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Don't really know the intricacies of winches but sounds like JST does!
^^^^^^Probably the easiest, safest and practical solution perhaps? Somebody somewhere obviously overtorqued it! If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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21st Feb 2013 1:12pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8338
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can you drill out the solenoid securing 'rivets' and then replace the whole stud?
try someone line Goodwinch, they would be able to source (as a good price) the part i expect. although i would still fit an albright, last longer, waterproof and more reliable than the warn solenoid packs. Cheers James 110 2010 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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21st Feb 2013 1:20pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17874
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If it is an XD9000i as the OP has stated then only an OEM Warn solenoid pack will fit, so the only way to fit an Albright pack is to bypass the original integrated solenoids. Having said that the photos look more like an XD9000 (not the "i" version). If so the Albright option would definitely make sense. |
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21st Feb 2013 2:26pm |
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