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Marius



Member Since: 21 Dec 2010
Location: South Africa
Posts: 231

South Africa 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Keswick Green
winch not moving
bought a warn xd9000i a few months ago - only got round to fitting it now. Changed the 36mm2 cables out for 50mm2. I connected it to my deep cycle last night but no movement Sad Is there a chance that it simply needs a minimum level of amps (CCA) to start at all?
Post #212568 20th Feb 2013 9:01am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
Re: winch not moving
Marius wrote:
bought a warn xd9000i a few months ago - only got round to fitting it now. Changed the 36mm2 cables out for 50mm2. I connected it to my deep cycle last night but no movement Sad Is there a chance that it simply needs a minimum level of amps (CCA) to start at all?


Does the winch use the tin can solenoids or the Albright style contactor packs? The only time I have had problems with a winch not moving is when a tin can seized up, which is quite a common occurrence.

Either way it sounds as if there is no power getting to the motor or a bad earth. Double check your connections.
Post #212595 20th Feb 2013 10:47am
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Welshsurferdude



Member Since: 23 Feb 2012
Location: Newport
Posts: 2490

Wales 
Could be the solenoid is it clicking?

I had the same problem with most winches i bought second hand, all were dead so replaced solenoids and all worked fine! 2011 Santorini Black USW XS.

2015 Discovery 4.5 Black pack Firenze red XS
Post #212599 20th Feb 2013 11:00am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17874

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
The XD9000i is prone to solenoid malfunctions especially if not used for a while. Sometimes a sharp tap with a hammer handle will make it work, sometimes a change in temp. Had this problem a few times with the dealer-fit winch on my Disco 2 and it is just one reason why I don't like the modern Warn range (with one exception) and won't buy another.
Post #212725 20th Feb 2013 7:34pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8338

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
have a look in the bridge part where the solenoid is and see if you get any output with a volt meter when the handset is used.

if the solenoid is not clicking and/or there is no output to F1, F2 then solenoid is Censored .

check the handset is working, you can apply power direct to the switching side of the solenoids to over ride the hand set, if that works the winch then the handset is faulty.

you dont need a min CCA to make it work. if Battery juice is low it will just turn slower which will kill any winch motor under load. Cheers

James
110 2010 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #212794 20th Feb 2013 9:35pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8338

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
you could check the motor.

you can use a short jumper lead (one of the old 35mm2 cables?) plus jump leads

Dont forget to put one of those old leads on the earth too!

in essence to make the winch work the solenoids put 12v to F1 whilst simultaneously joining F2 and A to go one way.

to make it rotate the other way join F1 and A and apply 12v to F2

if it doesnt turn the motor is goosed. Cheers

James
110 2010 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #212796 20th Feb 2013 9:37pm
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Dieselhead



Member Since: 21 Oct 2012
Location: Pulborough. West Sussex
Posts: 552

I think my winch is the same model

I have never tried it & the 1st owner only used it once

Better try it this weekend just incase I have to pull someone out of a ditch or mybe myself Embarassed Chris

2008 XS 110 2.4 Utility. Tonga Green
1953 Series 1 for restoration
1983 Mini Mayfair
2004 VW T5 Camper
2008 Diahatsu Sirion. Thats hers
Classic Bolens Garden Tractors
Post #212806 20th Feb 2013 10:02pm
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Marius



Member Since: 21 Dec 2010
Location: South Africa
Posts: 231

South Africa 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Keswick Green
Ok so I took it off and opened it up. The idiot that I am......wired the incoming live to the wrong terminal.

It works now but I have a second problem. I just cant win. When I removed the live, the copper
Terminal broke off to such an extent I can only screw the bolt in a third of the way onto the terminal. Can one replace only the terminal? Perhaps solder it on? Or a conducting glue?

I uploaded a pic to my gallary. Not sure how to link it to this post.
Post #212890 21st Feb 2013 9:53am
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Is the stud attached to the busbar or is the busbar bolted to the stud? If it's the first I would remove the busbar drill out/remove the terminal stud and replace it with a stainless bolt probably a countersunk head one. I would just for 'best practice' then if possible spin the busbar round and use the stainless replacement bolt/stud as the negative return. If the latter you would need to post more details or try to remove the remainder of the stud and replace it in it's entirety..

Picture posted for clarity..... Thumbs Up


Click image to enlarge
 If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #212917 21st Feb 2013 12:22pm
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Marius



Member Since: 21 Dec 2010
Location: South Africa
Posts: 231

South Africa 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Keswick Green
No the copper bolt is in bedded or coming out of the solenoid.
The bus bar is loose. So everything is pushed down by the nut.
Post #212920 21st Feb 2013 12:36pm
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Marius wrote:
Perhaps solder it on? Or a conducting glue?


Not a chance it would never hold where it is and any electrical resistance would cause increased current draw and subsequently unnecessary heating of the stud.

I would in that case strip the solenoid and replace the stud accordingly with a suitable stainless bolt/stud or try and source a replacement stud from the solenoid manufacturer or get one made. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!


Last edited by K9F on 21st Feb 2013 1:10pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #212924 21st Feb 2013 1:06pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8338

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Will the nut do up tight enough to hold the bus bar down?

personally i would replace the solenoids with an Albright. Cheers

James
110 2010 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #212925 21st Feb 2013 1:08pm
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Don't really know the intricacies of winches but sounds like JST does! Thumbs Up
^^^^^^Probably the easiest, safest and practical solution perhaps? Somebody somewhere obviously overtorqued it! If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #212927 21st Feb 2013 1:12pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8338

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
can you drill out the solenoid securing 'rivets' and then replace the whole stud?

try someone line Goodwinch, they would be able to source (as a good price) the part i expect.

although i would still fit an albright, last longer, waterproof and more reliable than the warn solenoid packs. Cheers

James
110 2010 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #212928 21st Feb 2013 1:20pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17874

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
jst wrote:
Will the nut do up tight enough to hold the bus bar down?

personally i would replace the solenoids with an Albright.


If it is an XD9000i as the OP has stated then only an OEM Warn solenoid pack will fit, so the only way to fit an Albright pack is to bypass the original integrated solenoids.

Having said that the photos look more like an XD9000 (not the "i" version). If so the Albright option would definitely make sense.
Post #212947 21st Feb 2013 2:26pm
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