 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear Work Lights |
 
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443   
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An ideal place for a worklight is on the upright part of the roof panel to the left of the door and mounted on a swivel mount. The reasoning is that it is up high without being above the height of the vehicle and will shine down as well as illuminate a little of the inside with the door open. Trouble is that if you have a roof rack, most like mine have the access ladder on the nearside so I ended up with mine on the other side. Some put them in the middle either by the rear washer or replacing it. I didn't want to do that as it would hamper loading the rack from the back. Another option is a socket permanently fixed on the back and a wander lead with a light fixed to a clamp so it can be clipped where it is needed
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25th Sep 2012 2:22pm |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6678 
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Here's mine, 13.5" AlienXplorer lightbar ...
 Click image to enlarge Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  |
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25th Sep 2012 2:25pm |
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| Eduardo Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Región Metropolitana Posts: 2110  
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Here in mine,
As JWL said, mounted at the rear in the roof rack at the left side with a swivel mount. I use a cheap Hella 4.75" worklight that is enough for my needs. Click image to enlarge Advantages: No holes made in the roof: all the cables are running through the roof rack and down attached to the RAI and go to the engine bay with a switch in the panel. If you dont have a roof rack a hole should be done  . Also is a good position to load/unload the Defender and to attach the popup camper in the nigth.
Disvantages: In my case were over the roof rack line and I destroyed it in a parking lot  Now modified to be under the roof rack line  and some restrictions to the movement
Cheers Eduardo MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64' MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo" Click image to enlarge |
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25th Sep 2012 2:49pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17781 
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Here are mine. Mounted on modified mirror arms so that they can swing out of the way of the rear flap, and also can shine forwards, sideways, etc. Very useful if navigating tricky terrain in the dark when you need to know what's beside you, or towing wide trailers through constricted places.
Lights are LED units connected into what would be the HRW if I had a rear window. Click image to enlarge |
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25th Sep 2012 3:29pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20839
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I do believe some also have a hollow bolt design also for cable routing so your mounting bolt for the light can be used for the cable to go through as well. Other than that this has been the ONE thing that has put me off having any. I was really interested in an IPF dual set up at one point but again the cable routing issue put me off. Not an issue if you have a rack or even better a rack and RAI that then gives you more options. IMHO as little holes drilled the better.
http://www.devon4x4.com/index.php?page=sho...;Itemid=14 _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___ ___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___ ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
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25th Sep 2012 4:56pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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I haven't actually drilled any holes in the roof or panelwork, I have a heavy duty Brownchurch rack on my 110 with strengthening bars to ghe body capping front and back. All wires from whatever is up top is threaded through the inch box supports. At the front all pop under the bonnet or through the front door seal. At the back, wires pass behind the back door seal at body capping height as there is a gap in the rib that the door seal fixes to where the window panels meet the tub.
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25th Sep 2012 5:27pm |
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| GUM97 Member Since: 05 Feb 2012 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3555 
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Thanks for all the comments, I've certainly been given a few different ideas. I'm still wary of drilling holes in bodywork, and seen as I don't have a roof rack, that's going to be a problem.
 An engine to TDi for!
"Land Rover- Proudly turning drivers into mechanics since 1948" |
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25th Sep 2012 6:23pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20839
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GUM - Likewise. This is why I am interested in the hollow bolt designed lights because I wouldn't mind the holes for the lights only but not have to drill holes for the lights and cables which will no doubt leak so a very bad idea indeed that.
http://www.devon4x4.com/index.php?page=sho...;Itemid=14 Trouble is personally I'm not a fan of LED's and I'd prefer a rectangular unit rather than round. But the fixing and cable routing design is good none the less. _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___ ___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___ ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
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25th Sep 2012 6:28pm |
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| GUM97 Member Since: 05 Feb 2012 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3555
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Yeah I prefer the look of the rectangular ones as well. But that's the best cable routing system I've seen so far
If only there was a way to combine the two ......  An engine to TDi for!
"Land Rover- Proudly turning drivers into mechanics since 1948" |
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25th Sep 2012 6:46pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20839
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I have thought of this before and found it to be the only solution:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M10-Threaded-Nip...1693wt_942 The single issue with this is rust because it isn't stainless  Other than that would be suitable. _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___
___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___ ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
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25th Sep 2012 6:50pm |
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| GUM97 Member Since: 05 Feb 2012 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3555
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The problem is, there's no bolt heads on them
Or am I missing something? An engine to TDi for!
"Land Rover- Proudly turning drivers into mechanics since 1948" |
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25th Sep 2012 6:54pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20839
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You would have to use two nut's one each side. OR two nuts on each side tighten against body and the against each nut which would keep the fixing tighter. Or another solution would be to us two nyloc nuts each side.
Ideally you'd want washers each side too with a rubber washer too to create a nice seal. Then once the wires are through silicone inside the hollow bolt to seal it. _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___ ___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___ ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
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25th Sep 2012 6:56pm |
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| GUM97 Member Since: 05 Feb 2012 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3555
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Yeah that'd work
 I'll look into it a bit more tomorrow. Thanks for the idea  An engine to TDi for!
"Land Rover- Proudly turning drivers into mechanics since 1948" |
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25th Sep 2012 7:22pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20839
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Your welcome. It's an idea I came up with but never carried though in the end. If you do go ahead let me know how it goes.
_\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___
___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___ ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
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25th Sep 2012 7:37pm |
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