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| big steve Member Since: 24 Dec 2009 Location: hertfordshire Posts: 2456   
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Yer that's fair enough if got mine so I'm not going to worry
Steve 2015 2.2 tdci hardtop xs 3.2 conversion DONE 238bhp and 707nm torque and thats just the start ;-P hybrid turbo in build -done ready to fit ashcroft atb in transfer box 6 speed auto in build |
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7th Nov 2012 11:41am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20818
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With a 3.2 it deserves nothing less.
_\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___
___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___ ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
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7th Nov 2012 11:47am |
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| Inigo Member Since: 13 Nov 2011 Location: Kent Posts: 625 
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Ah, the BMC OTA looks a little over the top for what I wanted.
I have an RAI fitted and understand that the air ducting inside the engine bay is not in the slightest bit waterproof. I was planning on sealing this up, but thought it may be easier to replace the complicated and seemingly restricted duct with something wider bore and one piece to avoid having to seal.  Click image to enlarge Item 7 , dirty air duct looks particularly thin between the cyclone thing and the round section that connects in to the base of the air cleaner. I assume they have designed it this way for a reason - lack of space perhaps, but wondered if there were off the shelf alternatives without going the whole hog and replacing the air cleaner itself. I've always been a bit nervous about the oiled filters and would prefer to keep the standard replaceable paper ones. |
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7th Nov 2012 3:01pm |
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| bell-auto-services Member Since: 08 Jul 2007 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 2233
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The problem with the puma and td5 air intakes are the shear size of the pippes.
In the puma's case items 7 particulary and 8 are so restrictive its amasing, if you can make these larger it will for sure help even a standard car. The BMC filter as most said is a little highly priced i agree but that price is out of my control unless i buy 25 units of which i simply cant afford to stock. Pete |
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7th Nov 2012 7:28pm |
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| big steve Member Since: 24 Dec 2009 Location: hertfordshire Posts: 2456
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2015 2.2 tdci hardtop xs
3.2 conversion DONE 238bhp and 707nm torque and thats just the start ;-P hybrid turbo in build -done ready to fit ashcroft atb in transfer box 6 speed auto in build |
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7th Nov 2012 7:49pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731  
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Please can anyone tell me why is it called "dirty air duct"?
I thought the cyclone thing is in the air filter housing? I've removed one - are they breeding?  Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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7th Nov 2012 8:56pm |
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| Inigo Member Since: 13 Nov 2011 Location: Kent Posts: 625
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I'm guessing that because this air has not yet passed through the air cleaner, it is still potentially dirty air.
I don't know if it is a cyclone thing, just after the air intake grill and at the beginning of the dirty air duct, but it looks like that shape from the outside. It would make sense to get rid of big lumps and water before getting to the air filter, but I was hoping the RAI would negate the need for this bit. |
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7th Nov 2012 9:27pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Cheers
Good point about the "dirty air" 
On my Puma 2.4 the air intake is just a squashed pipe (nothing fancy, just constrictive) that gets rounder when it reaches the air filter housing. The only gizmo I found was the propeller thing Pete told me about in the housing itself - it didn't put up much of a fight
Interestingly (for me at least), with the standard set up, driving along the motorway at a steadyish 100 km/h you can drop the intake temperature at the MAF by one degree just by putting your foot down for a few seconds - ease off and a few seconds later it rises again (can repeat this ad infinitum). Clearly working the engine harder sucks in considerably more air that rapidly cools the MAF down (presumably counteracting continuous warming of the air in the pipework). The extent of this should become clear when the air is taken from the engine compartment (tomorrow hopefully). Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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7th Nov 2012 9:54pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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So, the little experiment is over and I have answered my own question. I managed to get the filter housing out the way enough to detach the intake pipe and move it above the inlet:
Click image to enlarge Air being taken in very near the alternator. Starting temp was 10 degrees (as outside) which increased rapidly to 22 degrees at the same rate as the engine temperature. Stayed constant 22 whilst driving around town, at lights etc. However, on the autobahn it shot up to 28 degrees at 100 km/h and 35 degrees at 140 km/h. Slowing down to 40 km/h, the temperature went down quickly to 22 degrees again. Outside temperature still 10 degrees. Obvious conclusion - don't (really don't!) get air from the engine compartment. I was expecting that. However, it's also amazing how quickly the compartment heats up as soon as there is load and cools down after (even when the intake is away from the radiator/fan path). I now suspect that my power loss in summer was probably a combination of 30 degrees outside, restriction due to the (not so good) RAI and heating of the air in the engine compartment. The power loss kicked in after I was driving at 140 km/h for a short while - may be explained by the temperature rise in the engine compartment warming the air in the pipes and filter housing by a degree or two. Just an idea... Does the ECU respond to the MAF temperature? Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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8th Nov 2012 2:03pm |
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| theorangebandit Member Since: 03 Jun 2013 Location: Stowmarket Posts: 862 |
to conclude your experiment I suggest you attach a long pipe to the air box and position it in a place to receive clean air, perhaps the fender cover would be a good space to receive air.this will give cool clean air, perhaps ill improve induction a lot. this is certainly a thought on my mind
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10th Jun 2013 2:35pm |
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| bell-auto-services Member Since: 08 Jul 2007 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 2233
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yes, as well as cylinder head temp. |
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10th Jun 2013 2:57pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Thanks Pete
Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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10th Jun 2013 6:55pm |
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| spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4805 
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You could go low tech. You could fabricate hollow rectangles,3" wide by 1" deep from metal.Measurements can be varied. These are welded to the bottom of the bumper. You extend the bottom and angle it up into the engine bay. When driving this will allow air to be forced up in to the engine bay dissapating the heat. The faster you go the more the air is forced in. Very low tech but it has worked in the past. You can block them up in winter. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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10th Jun 2013 10:49pm |
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| pdv Member Since: 07 Feb 2014 Location: Asse Posts: 26  
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hy,
what did you do with the MAF sensor because its one piece with the filter housing ? grtz from belgium |
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8th Feb 2016 7:00pm |
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