 | Home > Technical > ATB (torsen) front and rear install |
 
|
|
|
| 34064 Member Since: 12 Dec 2023 Location: South Central Posts: 234   
|
Would it not be worth fitting some Ashcroft shafts and CVs if your putting an ATB in? 110 Td5 Ex Utilities slowly converting into a pop top camper one day
Build thread:https://www.defender2.net/forum/post1024784.html#1024784 |
||
9th Aug 2024 4:09pm |
|
| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2239  
|
I've always used standard shafts and CVs in my 110s. Both where well past 500nm torque and both used heavily off road. Never broke one.
ATB is actually kinder to the drive train than an open diff. |
||
|
10th Aug 2024 6:20am |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 18038 
|
If you want to upgrade you won't get better than Ashcroft shafts and CVs.
|
||
|
10th Aug 2024 9:44am |
|
| Castillo Member Since: 23 Nov 2012 Location: Tavastkyro Posts: 41 
|
Thanks for everyone the replies.
Of course I would like to Ashcroft axles and Cv-joints but I need to earn more money first. Really expensive just now for me... I don't do extreme off-roading, but I tow a lot of caravans and trailers, even in worse conditions in winter here in skandinavia. I plan to update the same ATB in the back later as well. Maybe I'll try to find some decent aftermarket joints (or old ones back)... Britparts seem to be available everywhere webshops, but maybe I can't trust them enough. I have some bad experiences with some Britparts items defender 110 td5 2006 |
||
|
10th Aug 2024 12:05pm |
|
| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2239
|
Britpart CVs are fine. 33" tyres, 550nm of torque, 270hp and a heavy right foot. Never broken one on tarmac.
Allmakes are poor quality, broken a few of those. |
||
|
10th Aug 2024 12:12pm |
|
| 34064 Member Since: 12 Dec 2023 Location: South Central Posts: 234
|
Just to add my further 2 penneth to the ATB conversation. Just come back from 16 days in the Pyrenees driving most surfaces I had a ATB built by Nige at Xcess earlier this year but unfortunately while doing my pre trip prep I noticed my front diff input had a lot of play so I decided to get another ATB for the front having both front and rear.
Initially after fitting the front it does feel a bit heavier and the return to centre takes a small amount of getting used to but once it beds in and you adjust it's quite pleasant. On road I found it pretty good you can power out of corners on a mountain pass and having both you feel it's more connected and wants to push you in a straight line when you have a fair bit of power in less so if you aren't on the throttle as much. On road the traction advantage I found was the best my defender is only on 235 85 16 grabber AT3s and I don't have ABS or TC. On some steep shaley type sections I found a significant amount of grip difference to previous on climbing hills and also going down. On more faster paced gravel type roads it's was again very sure footed on acceleration and braking. One track we did up by an old Ski slope had just been graded and rolled and with the rain the track had turned into a slurry and was like driving on grease in places. With this track I found staying in low box and modulating the power gave a good response but putting the centre diff lock in made it track beautifully and stopped it from squirming bars in mind this was at speeds of about 5 to 8mph so not alot of wheel speed to clear the tread out that well on the tyres and where it was so wet it was filling back up very quickly. So overall I'm very pleased I read the advice on here and from others about the twin ATB set up as I find it very effective even on a non TC defender just need to save the pennies and do the middle now! 110 Td5 Ex Utilities slowly converting into a pop top camper one day Build thread:https://www.defender2.net/forum/post1024784.html#1024784 |
||
|
1st Oct 2024 7:26pm |
|
| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2687  
|
Chaps, after I fitted the Ashcroft 1.100 ratio gear set, I started seeing vibrations & 'grabbing' when coming off power.
At first we thought it was the transfer box rebuild, so we looked into that and put new bearings. Then we thought it was the rear diff (also ATB), so we rebuilt that. We've tried different props, different wheels, a Gwyn Lewis prop as well, checked all the UJs, no luck. Now finally they're narrowed it down to the front diff, which is also an ATB. What could be the cause of the front diff doing this, and how can we fix this? Any advice is much appreciated, thanks -- 2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged 
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
||
|
16th Oct 2025 9:15am |
|
| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2511  
|
I have the impression that, by now, you have become an expert at dropping diffs
These ATB diffs can certainly be dismantled, so I guess it's just a matter of obtaining Ashcroft’s tolerance data. Puma 110" SW ............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
||
|
16th Oct 2025 1:40pm |
|
| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2687
|
LOLz, no, I have four left thumbs.
My local indie is doing all the work. -- 2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
||
|
16th Oct 2025 3:53pm |
|
| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2687
|
Ashcroft reckon we should look at the crown wheel, pinion, and bearings, it's probably set too tight.
So we're stripping the diff tomorrow and then we'll see. -- 2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
||
|
22nd Oct 2025 5:23pm |
|
| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2687
|
Definitely some play on the pinion - the bearing was loose.
The ATB feels too tight when trying to turn by hand as well. We're first going to put in my old front diff and see what happens, and then loosen the ATB a touch and put it back. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge -- 2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
||
|
23rd Oct 2025 9:54am |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 18038
|
I have in the past had problems with one of my ATBs with the preload springs breaking up inside the diff. This was a result of the lubricant becoming contaminated rather than any fundamental diff fault (so entirely my fault) and did cause some strange effects.
Spare internal parts for the ATBs are generally not available. On the occasion above Dave Ashcroft was kind enough to find me some parts from his spares box but as a rule if anything inside the ATB has failed a new unit is the way to go. With an ATB it is worth being extra-diligent with the oil change regime as it can become expensive otherwise. |
||
|
23rd Oct 2025 10:20am |
|
| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2687
|
@Blackwolf thanks for the info
What oil do you use in the ATB? this is what the oil looked like after the diff removal: Click image to enlarge -- 2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
||
|
23rd Oct 2025 10:25am |
|
| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2511
|
These ATBs use mineral 80w90. They say avoid synthetic oil due to slipperines. However, front diff in a Defender get contaminated with moly grease from the CVs.
Just yesterday I've got a couple of better oil seal to prevent the oil/grease migration. So far my CVs housing are vented with hoses runing up to the engine bay. Puma 110" SW ............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
||
|
23rd Oct 2025 11:26am |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT + 1 Hour |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
