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T1G UP



Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 3101

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
custom90steve wrote:
Finally got round to checking and adjusting the steering lock stops today but I find that it's pretty much to the maximum I'd be happy to have it already. I can't help but think having it to close is not a good idea after all when tyre's are muddy it will bind between the tyre and the radius arm and if you were un-lucky enough to get a small stone in that gap it wouldn't be good so I'm leaving mine alone.


you've never driven off road then son!

mines now on 30mm spacers and the locks right out. doesn't rub now and is alot more stable. the down side is it flicks Censored up the side of the 110 Big Cry

anyone do 25mm spacers?
Post #155707 15th Jul 2012 12:50pm
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lambert.the.farmer



Member Since: 11 Apr 2012
Location: harrogate
Posts: 2006

England 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi PU Rutland Red
land rover reccomend 20mm between tyre and radius arm which on 750's is the stops wound all the way in. Rhubarb and custard let fly with their secret weapon.

Last edited by lambert.the.farmer on 15th Jul 2012 1:30pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #155711 15th Jul 2012 1:25pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19608

United Kingdom 
lambert.the.farmer wrote:
land rover reccomend 20mm which on 750's is the stops wound all the way in.

That's about the same measurement I had 20mm. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #155712 15th Jul 2012 1:27pm
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familymad



Member Since: 13 Dec 2011
Location: Bucks
Posts: 3465

 2016 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Santorini Black
looks better with 'rally' mud 1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI
1995 90 300TDI
Post #155713 15th Jul 2012 1:28pm
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T1G UP



Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 3101

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
familymad wrote:
looks better with 'rally' mud


no it doesn't!

my new sliders will help.

i'll get my spacers turned down
Post #155715 15th Jul 2012 1:56pm
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richardd



Member Since: 01 Aug 2012
Location: Glasgow, sort of
Posts: 21

Scotland 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 CSW Epsom Green
had my '12 110CSW for 2 days and despite being a died in the wool LR owner I didn't think of the simple answer! D'oh.

Lunchtime's job with the works forklift and 2 axle stands ..... hopefully I'll be able to out manoeuvre that super tanker this afternoon!
Post #159056 1st Aug 2012 9:48am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16893

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I set mine up so that with the front axle raised on two jacks so that the front tyres were just off the ground I could just pass my fingers between the tyre and the radius arm. Having done this, when driving I get a very light rub on full lock in either forward or reverse directions of travel which I think is the result of the resilience in the suspension mountings allowing the axle to move fractionally from side to side.

To be honest I don't think that this is a problem (although there are those who say that it might be an MOT failure) since it is rare that you turn on full lock and when you do, it is at very low speed, so for now I am leaving it as it is.

Mud and stones I don't think will be a problem since the radius arm will simply scrape them off the tyre.

Before the adjustment I was running the original factory setting on the lcokstops but with 285s on Boosts with 30mm spacers, and no rubbing. The improvement in the turning circle has surprised me, the vehicle is really quite nimble now.
Post #159063 1st Aug 2012 10:05am
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richardd



Member Since: 01 Aug 2012
Location: Glasgow, sort of
Posts: 21

Scotland 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 CSW Epsom Green
blackwolf wrote:
I set mine up so that with the front axle raised on two jacks so that the front tyres were just off the ground I could just pass my fingers between the tyre and the radius arm. Having done this, when driving I get a very light rub on full lock in either forward or reverse directions of travel which I think is the result of the resilience in the suspension mountings allowing the axle to move fractionally from side to side.

To be honest I don't think that this is a problem (although there are those who say that it might be an MOT failure) since it is rare that you turn on full lock and when you do, it is at very low speed, so for now I am leaving it as it is.


I'd suggest you are getting both some movement in the bushes AND tyre flex. Given defenders propensity to rust I'd increase the stops by a shade to stop any rubbing.

I'm often moving 3500kg trailers on hard standing and tarmac so I'll not go as far as you have Wink
Post #159065 1st Aug 2012 10:14am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16893

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
T1G UP wrote:
anyone do 25mm spacers?


T1G UP wrote:
i'll get my spacers turned down


Be careful with this, 30mm seems to be about the minimum thickness that is safe with quality spacers.

Remember that the spacer has to be thick enough to accomodate the length of the original wheel stud, and the thickness of the nuts securing the spacer to the hub and there has to be enought material between these nuts and the original hub to provide adequate strength. The spacer also has to be thick enough to hold the new studs securely.

To thin the spacers you may end up needing to shorten the original studs and fit thin nuts, then machine the front face of the spacers to reduce the thickness. This will inevitably reduce the strength of the resultant assembly and it will be very difficult indeed to know by how much without computer modelling.

There is a reason why nobody makes spacers less than 30mm thick.
Post #159070 1st Aug 2012 10:34am
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T1G UP



Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 3101

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
blackwolf wrote:
T1G UP wrote:
anyone do 25mm spacers?


T1G UP wrote:
i'll get my spacers turned down


Be careful with this, 30mm seems to be about the minimum thickness that is safe with quality spacers.

Remember that the spacer has to be thick enough to accomodate the length of the original wheel stud, and the thickness of the nuts securing the spacer to the hub and there has to be enought material between these nuts and the original hub to provide adequate strength. The spacer also has to be thick enough to hold the new studs securely.

To thin the spacers you may end up needing to shorten the original studs and fit thin nuts, then machine the front face of the spacers to reduce the thickness. This will inevitably reduce the strength of the resultant assembly and it will be very difficult indeed to know by how much without computer modelling.

There is a reason why nobody makes spacers less than 30mm thick.
i got some new wheels Thumbs Up
Post #159071 1st Aug 2012 10:49am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16893

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
T1G UP wrote:
i got some new wheels Thumbs Up


Undoubtedly the sensible solution!
Post #159081 1st Aug 2012 11:41am
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