![]() | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > sender & fuel tank question |
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bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 ![]() ![]() |
thanks Pete, downloaded and saved ![]() |
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bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 ![]() ![]() |
thanks Cobs, downloaded and saved ![]() |
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bell-auto-services Member Since: 08 Jul 2007 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 2233 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
cool
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bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 ![]() ![]() |
hi BigMike - the reason(s) for cutting an access hatch is to be able to replace any critical parts in the tank/sender/pump .. but as I have found out, there is not a pump in the tank (on a MY2010 2.4), so I won;t be making the hatch. However all this information especially COBS and BAS's pdfs will be a great help when I start to fit the thermotop c From this thread, I want to judge the mechanical skills required to fit the webasto after being quoted £1500 to fit (£2500 including the unit ![]() cheers bp |
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BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253 ![]() ![]() |
Ah gotcha.
I went through the same dilemma. Decided that a totally seperate small fuel tank was in order which fit in front of the rear wheel arch on the offside. The price you've been quoted is very high - if you really dont fancy doing it yourself have a chat with Ribblesdale auto electrics in preston. Yes its a hike from you, but you'll save hundreds of pounds |
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bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 ![]() ![]() |
that's a good option ... what size tank did you use ? do you have photos ?
cheers bp |
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