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scottish110



Member Since: 10 Nov 2011
Location: Inverurie
Posts: 363

Scotland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Stainless Bolts etc
Iv just bought stainless steel bolts and screws from Paddocs to cover pretty much the whole truck, but i was wondering if i should put any sort of anti corrosion stuff on them before putting them on ?

Any suggestions ?

Thanks
Post #105245 7th Dec 2011 9:29am
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T1G UP



Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 3101

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
Re: Stainless Bolts etc
scottish110 wrote:
Iv just bought stainless steel bolts and screws from Paddocs to cover pretty much the whole truck, but i was wondering if i should put any sort of anti corrosion stuff on them before putting them on ?

Any suggestions ?

Thanks


got a link? and yes, copperslip at least. i do believe there are some special pastes for cross metalic corrosion
Post #105251 7th Dec 2011 9:49am
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8578

United Kingdom 
Duralac



Que K9F Razz


The better companies who supply stainless bolts etc for 4x4 supply a sachet/small tube of anti corrosion paste from Wurth



Brendan

PS Information available HERE


Last edited by leeds on 7th Dec 2011 10:00am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #105255 7th Dec 2011 9:58am
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Lorryman100



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

Duralac Chromate Paste

Glasgow stockist: http://www.duncanyacht.co.uk/search.asp

But any yacht chandlers will stock it.
Post #105256 7th Dec 2011 10:00am
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scottish110



Member Since: 10 Nov 2011
Location: Inverurie
Posts: 363

Scotland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Re: Stainless Bolts etc
T1G UP wrote:
scottish110 wrote:
Iv just bought stainless steel bolts and screws from Paddocs to cover pretty much the whole truck, but i was wondering if i should put any sort of anti corrosion stuff on them before putting them on ?

Any suggestions ?

Thanks


got a link? and yes, copperslip at least. i do believe there are some special pastes for cross metalic corrosion


http://www.paddockspares.com/parts-and-acc...xings.html
Post #105259 7th Dec 2011 10:08am
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Grockle



Member Since: 24 Nov 2008
Location: Peak District National Park
Posts: 2266

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
I covered the threads with vasaline when fitting ours. 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up.
Post #105267 7th Dec 2011 10:53am
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NinetyTD4



Member Since: 22 Apr 2011
Location: North
Posts: 397

Wales 2012 Defender 90 Other SW Keswick Green
On steel built cars you can use copperslip, but dont do that on our aluminium shells - building batteries does not solve problems! Go for TefGel, Weicon Anti Seize or anything related instead. BTW what does MOT tell you about stainless bolts? our German TÜV might be very unhappy /w stainless bolts on chassis carrying parts. Never forget: cars have owner, Landrover have field service personnel.
Post #105289 7th Dec 2011 12:31pm
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Grockle



Member Since: 24 Nov 2008
Location: Peak District National Park
Posts: 2266

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
NinetyTD4 wrote:
On steel built cars you can use copperslip, but dont do that on our aluminium shells - building batteries does not solve problems! Go for TefGel, Weicon Anti Seize or anything related instead. BTW what does MOT tell you about stainless bolts? our German TÜV might be very unhappy /w stainless bolts on chassis carrying parts.


same here, you shouldn't use SS fastners on any stress or load bearing fastenings 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up.
Post #105298 7th Dec 2011 1:19pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
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Stainless steel DOES rust and is not very strong, it's not necessary to use them. Use proper fasteners and cover with usual suspect potions if worried about rust!
Post #105349 7th Dec 2011 5:23pm
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gtveloce65



Member Since: 10 Nov 2008
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 107

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Epsom Green
ah, if only our friends at Land Rover would use proper fasteners in the first place...

Go retro and use sheradized fasteners...many of them were still fair on my Series 1 when I bought it - those were the days Thumbs Up 1953 80
1965 Alfa Romeo GT Veloce Sprint
1980 Fiat 124 Spider
2008 110xs
Post #105381 7th Dec 2011 7:02pm
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cobs



Member Since: 12 Jun 2008
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 336

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Cairns Blue
Quote:
Stainless steel DOES rust and is not very strong


not strictly true Zag - you can buy different grades of stainless (as you'll know from your boating exploits) and when specifying stainless bolts you can specify ones which are actually stronger than 'ordinary' steel bolts - as always it's worth checking the application and buying accordingly.
Post #105413 7th Dec 2011 8:33pm
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Zagato
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I stand corrected Thumbs Up
Post #105418 7th Dec 2011 8:46pm
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scottish110



Member Since: 10 Nov 2011
Location: Inverurie
Posts: 363

Scotland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
I'm confused now ! Zegato, are you suggesting that I do not use the stainless bolts fro
Paddocks to replace the rusted ones ???
Post #105431 7th Dec 2011 9:22pm
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8578

United Kingdom 
S110 there is a large number of metals referred to as stainless steel. These are resistant to corrosion in different environments.

The two most common stainless bolts are referred to as A2 and A4

A2 is nominally resistant to corrosion in fresh water

A4 is nominally resistant to corrosion in salt water and chemicals

Common stainless bolts are referred to as A2-70

A2 meaning resistant to rusting in fresh water the 70 refers to strength and is 700 N/mm2

A standard mild steel bolt is marked 8.8. The first 8 refers to a strength of 800 N/mm2 whereas the .8 refers to stress at permanent set being 80% so ).8 x 800 = 640 N/mm2

Real High Tensile bolts are rated 12.9 12 refers to strength of 12 N/mm2 whereas the .9 refers to stress at permanent set being 90% or 1,080 N/mm2


That is the general reason why stainless bolts in high stress situations are not recommended.

HTH


Brendan
Post #105434 7th Dec 2011 9:42pm
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Zagato
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scottish110 wrote:
I'm confused now ! Zegato, are you suggesting that I do not use the stainless bolts fro
Paddocks to replace the rusted ones ???


Brendan knows the theory I only know that many advise not to use SS bolts on resto's/rebuilds due to strength/cost and they do rust anyway. Sheradised stuff is costly so most use the standard zinc coated fasteners, I bought ALL the correct size UNF fasteners for my rebuild for £110 Shocked and then you could use sheradised bolts if you want to for authenticity (although LR used a mix of bolts not just sheradised!) such as bumper bolts etc as they look nicer Thumbs Up
Post #105499 8th Dec 2011 11:30am
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