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Timbo



Member Since: 15 Jun 2021
Location: west mids
Posts: 135

England 2008 Defender 110 V8 Petrol USW Tonga Green
I understand that you can clean them with an electrical contact cleaner but there is also a specific cleaner available on Ebay by liquimoly. Hope this helps.
Post #955885 18th Jun 2022 8:52pm
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Ohlins



Member Since: 20 Oct 2009
Location: French Pyrénées
Posts: 28

France 
As an aside, can I ask what radiator cowling you have mounted please? I have a 3.9 in my 110 but when I bought it it had no cowling. This is my first V8 so I'm still learning what goes where etc.

All the best Army 110 3 Door 200tdi
Army 110 3 Door V8
Army Lightweight 2.25 Petrol
110 300tdi 5 door
Yamaha XT660Z Ténéré
Gas Gas 300EC Ohlins
Post #989895 22nd Apr 2023 8:29am
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Lodelaner



Member Since: 04 Feb 2010
Location: Lambourn
Posts: 621

United Kingdom 1988 Defender 90 V8 Petrol ST Shire Blue
Do you have a serpentine or vee belt V8 engine?

Mines serpentine, so I reused the D1 V8 rad cowl and dremelled it to size using a 50th cowl as a template.

You’d be forgiven for thinking that’s a bit ‘non-factory’, but it’s exactly what LR did for the 50th V8 and 4 litre NAS spec.

If it’s a vee belt use NTC5685, there’s one for £60 on eBay at the mo.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275377116469 JB

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Post #989897 22nd Apr 2023 8:56am
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Ohlins



Member Since: 20 Oct 2009
Location: French Pyrénées
Posts: 28

France 
Thanks for the prompt reply. It's a serpentine belt. I now know what to look out for. I'll have a hunt here in France first.

I'd like to get it ready for this summer although last summer I didn't have any overheating issues without a cowling on road but I suspect that in 35c of heat in forest off roading with no breeze it might be different...it just doesn't feel right!!!
Thanks Army 110 3 Door 200tdi
Army 110 3 Door V8
Army Lightweight 2.25 Petrol
110 300tdi 5 door
Yamaha XT660Z Ténéré
Gas Gas 300EC Ohlins
Post #989899 22nd Apr 2023 9:01am
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MercianRover



Member Since: 07 Apr 2022
Location: Culworth
Posts: 123

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Java Black
To solve the overheating problem you need to duct cold air to the air box. Defender engine bay is awful for hot air extraction - there's a big inlet but hot air wants to rise and the only way out is down. On a smooth surface when moving this is fine, at lower speeds perhaps in grass there is no slipstream so the hot air stalls under the bonnet. The air box is in a great place for fording less so to induct cold air.

If you haven't already done so, bin the K&N - fit a paper element.
Post #1002972 4th Aug 2023 9:20am
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Lodelaner



Member Since: 04 Feb 2010
Location: Lambourn
Posts: 621

United Kingdom 1988 Defender 90 V8 Petrol ST Shire Blue
Interesting, but that's not my experience with cooling on a 3.9 EFi. I found that running in mid 30's temps in the Ligurian Alps a few years, and without the cowling (hadn't got round to fitting it after changing the viscous fan drive) the car ran hot. Not just subjectively hot, but a couple of needle risers which meant the coolant was over 105 degrees.

With the cowl refitted during a lunch break it was fine in the same circumstances.

Air inlet temp will affect combustion efficiency, but with the fuel burning at say 1500C I'm not sure an extra 20 degrees in the inlet temperature will cause a great deal of difference? I may be wrong, but as I say its not in my experience. JB

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Post #1002978 4th Aug 2023 9:33am
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