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murph81



Member Since: 11 Sep 2022
Location: Ireland
Posts: 63

Ireland 2007 Defender 110 Td5 PU Belize Green
Overheating woes.
I fitted an apparently known good 15P from a Discovery with 120k miles to my Defender when the engine failed.

Lately the temp gauge has started climbing to around 3/4.

I fitted a new thermostat and no improvement.

It's not building pressure, no water in oil, starts first pick and drives great.

I fitted a new radiator when I fitted the replacement engine, I'd drover fine for a bit with needle staying half way.

Is head gasket gone, if so, how is it not building pressure?

Is there anything else I'm missing?

It also has a new Alisport intercooler and EGR delete fitted.

It's not mapped.

Viscous fan is working and I swapped temp sender from old engine and it's reading the same on the gauge.
Post #986205 20th Mar 2023 5:38pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5416

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Is it hot. Or is it reading hot. Pop the bonnet and you should know by smell and touch if things are really as hot as it’s indicating. Use an inferred thermometer would be a big help. Also a nanocom or similar will give you reading on engine temp.

Assume you got a good earth to engine.
Post #986210 20th Mar 2023 6:48pm
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murph81



Member Since: 11 Sep 2022
Location: Ireland
Posts: 63

Ireland 2007 Defender 110 Td5 PU Belize Green
I think its getting hot alright, thought I got a bit of a smell alright but can't be sure.

I think swapping the temp senders and getting identical needle position on the gauge confirms it for me.

I'm not near anyone with nanocom.

I'm just amazed it's not building pressure in coolant tank.

Plenty of power and starting first pick of the key too.

I got onto local engine overhaul specialists for a price on an AMC cylinder head just in case, it's either all in or move on as is, don't really want to do that because I'll just get crap offers.

I have th old engine that had big end bearing trouble, can't really trust the cylinder head on that.
Post #986213 20th Mar 2023 6:59pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5416

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
You say “lately” so for a while the temp was all normal on the new fitted engine?

It could be the pump not working, failed impeller, so it is not circulating the coolant.
Post #986235 20th Mar 2023 9:09pm
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murph81



Member Since: 11 Sep 2022
Location: Ireland
Posts: 63

Ireland 2007 Defender 110 Td5 PU Belize Green
Yeah it seemed to take forever to warm up when I got it going with replacement engine.

I hadn't driven a Td5 previously so I wasn't sure.

Had a 200Tdi and can't remember what it was like.

I'll try a pump in it tomorrow if I can get one.
Post #986261 20th Mar 2023 11:24pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5416

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
What’s the in cab heater like?

I would think that would be less efficient if water pump weak.

Known ok rad?
Post #986280 21st Mar 2023 8:09am
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murph81



Member Since: 11 Sep 2022
Location: Ireland
Posts: 63

Ireland 2007 Defender 110 Td5 PU Belize Green
Cab heater is perfect.
Post #986288 21st Mar 2023 9:22am
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murph81



Member Since: 11 Sep 2022
Location: Ireland
Posts: 63

Ireland 2007 Defender 110 Td5 PU Belize Green
I've ordered a waterproof, I'm going to try that and strip the head off the old engine and have it tested.

If I do end up removing the head I'm tempted to fit an AMC head, I just want the thing to be reliable.
Post #986302 21st Mar 2023 12:42pm
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jimbo55



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Midlands
Posts: 385

United Kingdom 
Are you losing any coolant?

The pressure caps are not uncommon to fail, the drive to the water pump also are pretty common.

Heater matrix are prone to leaking, and the expansion tanks are also known to crack.

I would check to see if you are actually getting any flow from the water pump? Crack one of the heater matrix hoses and see if you get any flow through it.
Post #986320 21st Mar 2023 3:33pm
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 790

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
I had the expansion tank crack where the cap pipe meets the round reservoir. The crack was hard to spot but it would not build pressure, was not overheating but loosing coolant through evaporation. These tanks are cheap so I just replaced and all was good again.
Post #986322 21st Mar 2023 3:45pm
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1758

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
And make sure the Censored is bled properly. I've refilled my coolant in the past and thought all was fine for a few hundred miles till it burped an air bubble out from somewhere that then sat in the top hose, right next to the temp sensor.
Post #986333 21st Mar 2023 5:07pm
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murph81



Member Since: 11 Sep 2022
Location: Ireland
Posts: 63

Ireland 2007 Defender 110 Td5 PU Belize Green
Thanks lads, I'll be sure to check everything that's been mentioned!

I'm waiting for a break in the weather to fit the water pump.

I've taken the head off the old engine, I'll get it tested so I know I'll have a good spare.
Post #986339 21st Mar 2023 5:34pm
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murph81



Member Since: 11 Sep 2022
Location: Ireland
Posts: 63

Ireland 2007 Defender 110 Td5 PU Belize Green
New water pump fitted, still the same.

Ran with expansion cap off for 20 mins, no change in water level, no visible bubbles in expansion bottle.

Took it for a drive and within 5-10 mins gauge was up at 3/4.

Stopped and opened expansion bottle, some coolant overflowed under pressure but I think that would be expected?

It wasn't boiling over or anything like that.

Going to try and get engine temp confirmed with nanocom tomorrow.

Has anyone got any guide to testing coolant temp sender and gauge?

I've taken head off old engine, I'll get it tested to have as a good spare hopefully.
Post #987170 28th Mar 2023 9:16pm
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MadTom



Member Since: 10 Sep 2013
Location: Olomouc
Posts: 572

Czech Republic 1999 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Baltic Blue
Just for info - Nanocom uses the same sensor for temperature measurement as is used by engine ECU for its work and for indication na dash. So with Nanocom you can only check the function of tempereature indicator on dash, not the the real temperature measurement. Better is to use some non-contact (infrared) thermometer and measure temperature of cold engine, to get some starting point for emisivity calibration and than check the hot and hotter engine temperature. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo Smile
Post #987188 29th Mar 2023 7:07am
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murph81



Member Since: 11 Sep 2022
Location: Ireland
Posts: 63

Ireland 2007 Defender 110 Td5 PU Belize Green
Hi Tom, I hadn't thought of that.

I'll grab a laser thermometer in work tomorrow and test it.

I think I will be taking the head off, it can't be much else at this stage.
Post #987255 29th Mar 2023 5:42pm
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