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defenderfraggle

Member Since: 06 Dec 2022
Location: Leiden
Posts: 14

2009 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Santorini Black

Engine running 'hot' on higway. cools down within seconds

Good evening,

For almost a year now (it's getting worse) my 2.4 tdci (2009) is running hot, going into limp mode on the highway. When I'm gearing down, more revs, it's almost immediately gone. As soon as I leave the throttle (cars slowing down), temperature runs up, almost 1 degree per second. More throttle, and it cools down again. 110/112 limp mode, at 118 it shuts down completely. Limp mode disappears within 10 seconds after I shift to lower gear. System has been flushed, new intercooler (high capacity) new radiator. New temp sensor. I believe new waterpump. I have no clue what's happening. Have an ultra gauge setup, but what gauges/sensors to watch? No exhaust gasses in cooling system... When the temp sensor was replaced while the engine was there was no pressure (strange?). There was pressure when I loosened the reservoir cap though.. With cold engine there's almost always some kind of vacuum in the cooling system when I loosen the reservoir cap. Any help or idea's would be very much appreciated.

Jan

6th Dec 2022 5:17pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19531

Was the coolant fully bled when works was completed? Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧

Last edited by custom90 on 6th Dec 2022 10:28pm. Edited 1 time in total

6th Dec 2022 10:07pm

defenderfraggle

Member Since: 06 Dec 2022
Location: Leiden
Posts: 14

I suppose so, had it done by the garage, who are specialists in Landrover...
It's really strange....
I have read something about head gaskets, expansion tank caps... even the main relay, but it only happens when speeding (100kmh) on the highway.

6th Dec 2022 10:27pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19531

There’s a possibility there is an air lock if it hasn’t been properly bled, as it can’t just be poured in and left really.
The manual has a bleed procedure for it, I might be clutching at straws but as you’ve had a new waterpump the bleed procedure should be followed.

When I did mine I drained it from the thermostat hose, but as I said it does make me wonder if it was bled.

Do you know where your coolant level is sitting in the expansion tank right now? Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧

6th Dec 2022 10:34pm

defenderfraggle

Member Since: 06 Dec 2022
Location: Leiden
Posts: 14

I top it of at the normal/cold level. Whenever I check it is below, at the bottom of the expansion.
The problem mainly persists in sixt gear. Doing 2000-2100 revs. In 5th gear no problem. Traffic jam? No problem, motor actually gets colder.
I’ll check the levels again tomorrow.

7th Dec 2022 10:44pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19531

It’s normal to lose a little fluid, typically sitting just below the fill line.

But if it’s going right down to the bottom of the expansion tank then there maybe a minor leak somewhere.

I’d take a look at your radiator for signs of a leak traces (usually a coloured residue) and the lower side of waterpump which is easier said than done I know but worth doing.

In 6th gear does there feel like a lack of power at all? If so that maybe VCV related.

Regards head gasket, you can get it tested for that but check the basics first. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧

7th Dec 2022 10:52pm

PeeWee

Member Since: 13 Apr 2017
Location: Somersetty
Posts: 17

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Rimini Red

I had something similar on my 2010 build 2.4.
Yes, I fitted a Revotec fan two or three years ago and my wiring wasn't as good as it should have been, but that's sorted.
What happened to me twice during May 2002 was firstly, at 55 ish MPH, towing up a hill on a motorway, in Luxembourg, the temperature gauge went up and the motor went into limp for thirty seconds and two days later, I'd just finished climbing a slower hill, in Italy (with trailer) and the same thing happened.
During the summer I fitted a new thermostat and had no problems in higher temperatures in Italy or dragging the trailer back to the UK, but I cannot state definitely that it was the thermostat that was at fault.

8th Dec 2022 12:32am

defenderfraggle

Member Since: 06 Dec 2022
Location: Leiden
Posts: 14

That has also been replaced... but perhaps it is already broken. I'll have a look.

8th Dec 2022 10:43am

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5416

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver

I would be questioning if the water pump was working ok. How hot are the radiator pipes getting? Much difference between them?

8th Dec 2022 6:10pm

defenderfraggle

Member Since: 06 Dec 2022
Location: Leiden
Posts: 14

Update (not solved but more info)

The problem is not solved yet. But I did notice some weird behavior. Doing 100km/h in 5th gear, 2700 rpm, temperature at 100. Heater on full, bloody hot. All in a sudden.... temperature drops to 85 fast and heater gets cold(er). I did nothing. After moving to six gear, 100 rpm temperature was up again.

This happened a few times now.

Temperature starts moving up fast when driving and letting go of throttle (engine breaking) on a flat street/highway. Dong 100km/h and letting go of throttle (corner ahead, lmotetraffic) quickly gives 10 or more degrees extra temperature.

Whenever I open de expasion-cover when engine is cold there is a vacuum. If I fill up the fluid to the correct level (or bit above) and go out for a test spin, 100/105 degrees there will often be coolant in the engine bay. Not much.

The engine is remapped (Rica, the problems appeared long after the remap) has and oversized intercooler, new radiator new temp sensor. I believe also new thermostat and expansion cap. No difference. More revs is the way to cool it down, but can hardly do 3200 rpm continuously and even then... letting go of gas is a quick increase of temperature.

Car goes to the garage again next week, I have no idea. There were no co2 gasses in the cooling fluid. Could it be air in the system? I have read through the manual in this forum for the filling procedure, but don't quite understand. How can I let air out of the system (if it is there). Could it have something to do with the heater?

I'll ask the garage what they have done with thermostat end if the waterpump is fine. Perhaps I'll ask them to once again fully bleed and rinse the system and do a head gasket check by measuring the cilinder pressure when motor is running?

Any advice or help is very appreciated.....

Jan

5th Jan 2023 2:11pm

defenderfraggle

Member Since: 06 Dec 2022
Location: Leiden
Posts: 14

custom90steve wrote:
It’s normal to lose a little fluid, typically sitting just below the fill line.

But if it’s going right down to the bottom of the expansion tank then there maybe a minor leak somewhere.

I’d take a look at your radiator for signs of a leak traces (usually a coloured residue) and the lower side of waterpump which is easier said than done I know but worth doing.

In 6th gear does there feel like a lack of power at all? If so that maybe VCV related.

Regards head gasket, you can get it tested for that but check the basics first.

Checked for leaks today did not find any. Been dong lot's off revs without expansion cap, looks like head gasket is fine. `Also co2 test was negative.

6th Jan 2023 10:51pm

defenderfraggle

Member Since: 06 Dec 2022
Location: Leiden
Posts: 14

After much deliberation the shop decided to go hoe the head gasket as a last resort. And that’s what it was. Problem solved.

8th Mar 2023 12:10am

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