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Cooperracer05



Member Since: 07 Nov 2020
Location: Sussex
Posts: 90

2003 Defender 110 2.5 TD SW Java Black
TexasRover wrote:
The wife needs to understand that a Eurobox:

-is not free of maintenance cost, with some being expensive and frankly annoying (tire pressure monitoring etc)
-Suffers catastrophic depreciation
-Turns her husband into a sulking mister invisible at the Tesco Parking

I live in France: the misery of the French and their cars is something to behold.


all good points I will raise from afar, while protecting my soft and sensitive areas from incoming crockery!
Post #974836 16th Dec 2022 10:29am
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Cooperracer05



Member Since: 07 Nov 2020
Location: Sussex
Posts: 90

2003 Defender 110 2.5 TD SW Java Black

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Thought I would share some pics of the old filter head....as you can see the mating surfaces are pretty thin...I have cleaned all the bits to go back onto the new head when it arrives...



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The more I think about it, the less I think this is going to solve things. I think what happened was I disturbed the filter bits and bobs when I swapped washers and air bleed valve and introduced a new problem, reason being the purge process should have sorted this out and it made no difference....but I need to resolve this anyway, so hey ho...
Post #974837 16th Dec 2022 10:33am
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Cooperracer05



Member Since: 07 Nov 2020
Location: Sussex
Posts: 90

2003 Defender 110 2.5 TD SW Java Black
Well ...the new GORE item arrived along with a new fuel filter and water sensor....all back on the car and after 3x purges started up relatively OK.

Will wait for the start tomorrow after letting her stand for a while and see if that was a diversion or the cause.



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Post #975458 22nd Dec 2022 12:46pm
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alexatnd



Member Since: 19 May 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 249

United Kingdom 
I too am having starting issues :-(
Seem to be in same state with Gertie my 1999 TD5 Defender I've

replaced injector seals
replaced injector loom
new glowplugs
new FPR regulator
new fuel pump ( this was a preventive thing as we were just heading for a 3K trip round france)
new fuel filter housing and valve
just about to replace the glowplug relay ... if i can find where the damn thing is on a 1999 Def 110
new CPR , but as a friend mentioned it starts after the 1st time 99.9% of the time

1st thing in morning have to crank 6 or 7 time to get her to start then lots of unburnt diesel
after that seems ok.
we dod have an issue with the conections into the fuel cooler but cant see a leak there

once its going runs great ..... once its going Sad Santa - 1977 Series 3 - new chassis, tub, disc brakes,SU Carb
Gertie - 1999 110 TD5 - like a Phoenix from the ashes back on road... almost
Effie - 2004 110 TD5 County
Post #977229 9th Jan 2023 4:23pm
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Cooperracer05



Member Since: 07 Nov 2020
Location: Sussex
Posts: 90

2003 Defender 110 2.5 TD SW Java Black
Sorry to hear that!

I've given in and booked it in with a specialist to get the seals and harness done....really hoping it's that. Also he is going to check pressure at the head, but it would be odd that the seals are gone having been new 2.5k miles ago but I'm running out of options.

Mine was so bad after being sat for 2 weeks that it would catch and needed a squirt of brake cleaner to fire....once going it was all good, but it just wouldn't go.
Post #977247 9th Jan 2023 7:47pm
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Chris86



Member Since: 15 Jul 2014
Location: South Yorks
Posts: 755

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 110 Td5 USW Chawton White
Poor Starting
Hello,

When you do a fuel purge can you hear it gurgling/whooshing as though its burping itself?

As an outside, slightly oddball one- have you tried sticking a jump pack on it and then starting it?

When my battery was on its last legs mine would often turn over a number of timed before firing if left for a few days.

Regards
Chris
Post #977284 9th Jan 2023 10:43pm
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Cooperracer05



Member Since: 07 Nov 2020
Location: Sussex
Posts: 90

2003 Defender 110 2.5 TD SW Java Black
No gurgling at all, quiet as a mouse!

I've tried starting it with another fully charged battery across the current, new and fully charged battery makes no difference....but good ideas for sure!
Post #977287 9th Jan 2023 10:46pm
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adseybear



Member Since: 08 Oct 2009
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 260

Canada 
Its been a month..... any update? 2003 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Belize Green - "Betty"
1958 Series IIA 109 Station Wagon - "Randolph" - Awaiting Restoration
2019 Jeep Wrangler JL Rubicon - SOLD
2006 Volvo V70 D5 - Ocean Race Edition, SOLD
2003 VW Passat Estate 1.9TDI - SOLD
2008 BMW 320D M Sport Estate - SOLD
2001 Defender 90 Td5 Hard Top - SOLD
Post #981778 8th Feb 2023 4:35pm
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Cooperracer05



Member Since: 07 Nov 2020
Location: Sussex
Posts: 90

2003 Defender 110 2.5 TD SW Java Black
Yup!

And it's NOT good!

I sent it off and got the injector seals done and it made zero difference! My mechanic noticed that it was breathing REAl heavy...

So around 1yr ago the engine dropped a valve and fully shat itself...I sent it off to have a new shiny engine rebuilt....that ran nicely (and actually still does run really nicely once started....roll on to today and it's back at the engine builders with some kind of suspected issue with the engine build. I won't speculate on what until I get the full diagnostic but we think when cold the engine isn't olding compression and that's causing the start issue.... essentially gasses in the cylinders is making its way out and into the atmospheric part of the crank casing....engine has done 2.5k...

So it's head off and start to measure / check everything and try and work it out.

In some ways it's a good thing, as I was starting to lose my mind about what could be the cause!

My engine builder has been a legend about it and will put it right, and I'll have ANOTHER 'new' engine!
Post #981785 8th Feb 2023 5:23pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4392

United Kingdom 
Well what a Censored mate. Sorry about your troubles. If it gets to the head change stage I can highly recommend the AMC heads Thumbs Up
Post #981814 8th Feb 2023 7:59pm
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Cooperracer05



Member Since: 07 Nov 2020
Location: Sussex
Posts: 90

2003 Defender 110 2.5 TD SW Java Black
Yeh not ideal but it's just a few bits of metal that squish air and fuel and make it go pop ...it can't be impossible to fix, right.....right!

It could well be the head being cracked that is causing the issues, although I don't think so, it was skimmed and pressure tested when the engine was built up but could well be.

I'll keep you updated!
Post #981817 8th Feb 2023 8:07pm
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adseybear



Member Since: 08 Oct 2009
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 260

Canada 
Worth noting, I have been told by several people, that Td5 heads really don't like being skimmed, they have a thin hardened layer that is lost when they're skimmed. 2003 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Belize Green - "Betty"
1958 Series IIA 109 Station Wagon - "Randolph" - Awaiting Restoration
2019 Jeep Wrangler JL Rubicon - SOLD
2006 Volvo V70 D5 - Ocean Race Edition, SOLD
2003 VW Passat Estate 1.9TDI - SOLD
2008 BMW 320D M Sport Estate - SOLD
2001 Defender 90 Td5 Hard Top - SOLD
Post #981889 9th Feb 2023 4:31pm
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Chris86



Member Since: 15 Jul 2014
Location: South Yorks
Posts: 755

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 110 Td5 USW Chawton White
Cooperracer05 wrote:
Yeh not ideal but it's just a few bits of metal that squish air and fuel and make it go pop ...it can't be impossible to fix, right.....right!

It could well be the head being cracked that is causing the issues, although I don't think so, it was skimmed and pressure tested when the engine was built up but could well be.

I'll keep you updated!


The head on my TD5 had a tiny hairline fracture that was missed on pressure test (twice.....) my manifested as a really horrible clattery idle when the engine was hot.

Chased the problem around for nearly 4 years, finally took the plunge and stuck a new head on it and its sorted it.

Chris
Post #984636 6th Mar 2023 9:43pm
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Cooperracer05



Member Since: 07 Nov 2020
Location: Sussex
Posts: 90

2003 Defender 110 2.5 TD SW Java Black
Resolved!

So it turns out that when the engine was rebuilt (2.5k miles ago), the engine builder sent the block to a machinist to have the bores rehoned and a light skim...he asked to have the bores measured and if within spec, go ahead and hone. Well, he got the block back and it was honed....turns out the machinst didn't measure the cylinders for wear nor did the engine builder! The engine was built up and cylinder 1 and 2 were worn....so over the first 2k miles as the rings bedded in, compression on start up was down leading to poor starting and heavy breathing. When warm the car ran fine, presume due to gaps being reduced sue to expansion.

Anyway, the engine builder pulled it all apart, bored it and fitted new pistons and rings and put it all back together for me under warranty!

Just got it back and driven it 150 miles so far and it all seems good!

So I've got a fresh engine along with all the other bits that were a waste if time but nice to know are replaced....really hoping I get some trouble free mileage now!

Thanks all for your support, advice and guidance!
Post #985439 13th Mar 2023 8:03pm
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