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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3213

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Crimping Lucas 4.7mm Bullet Connectors
I need to order a couple of 4.7mm Lucas bullet connectors. I see that there is kind of a special crimping tool for these, that I do not have.
So my question: Has anyone made a successful crimp with one of those generic crimpers, like the one seen below. There is a section of this multi tool for 'Non Insulated'. Or perhaps used alternative methods for crimping these bullet connectors?





I cannot justify the cost of another crimper (plus shipping, vat, customs service charge) for the sake of 4 bullets.

TIA 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #976811 5th Jan 2023 7:54pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1728

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
Hi Dinnu,

when I was an apprentice very many years ago, we always soldered these not crimped them I can remember filing the ends of hundreds of them making up looms for TACR2s etc.

HTH Keith
Post #976815 5th Jan 2023 8:15pm
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gcc130



Member Since: 05 Jun 2015
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 687

I also think soldering bullet connectors gives a better result.
When I re wired my series 1 I bought the special crimping tool which makes a hexagonal crimp which I think will be difficult to replicate with the cheap crimping tool. Even with the correct tool some have pulled out over the years and if I did the job again I would solder the connectors.
Post #976816 5th Jan 2023 8:20pm
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1190

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
Soldering will almost always create a better connection on connectors. The reason crimps are more popular is they are faster and more reliable when done by monkeys.

Soldering is a skill and therefore costs more to train someone and is like welding in that to know its good you have to trust the solderer to a certain extent. Crimps can be calibrated, tested and operated by monkeys with repeatable results. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #976820 5th Jan 2023 8:24pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3213

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Ahh thank you. I did not think of soldering. Would try that Thumbs Up 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #976822 5th Jan 2023 8:27pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1782

United Kingdom 
My understanding is if crimps are done correctly with the correct tool they are better than soldering. Mainly because soldering can make the joint brittle and in a vibrating environment such as a vehicle this can cause the joint to fracture.

However the generic non ratchet tool Dinnu showed rarely gives a good crimp.

The downside to crimping is the cost of quality ratchet tools and the need for several of them for different connector types. At circa £25 to £35 each tool ( much more for large gauge wire tools ) it can get quite expensive if the tool is rarely used.

In your situation Dinnu I would likely solder as as well, pre tinning the wire and soldering while the connector is facing down, so the solder runs away from the insulation will help in stopping the free wire from becoming ridged and brittle.
Post #976834 5th Jan 2023 10:04pm
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Mdm



Member Since: 11 Sep 2013
Location: Sunny Lancashire
Posts: 1536

United Kingdom 
i tried for ages with other tools,and ended up with 4 crimp tools now. the best being the ratchet one for normal terminals.

yes soldering works but takes time

the proper tool is only £20-30 and plenty on ebay new and old and its saves so much time
Post #976844 5th Jan 2023 11:06pm
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1190

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
Ianh wrote:
My understanding is if crimps are done correctly with the correct tool they are better than soldering. Mainly because soldering can make the joint brittle and in a vibrating environment such as a vehicle this can cause the joint to fracture.

The same is true of crimps but its a known and quantifiable measure and crimps can be designed to strain relieve the wire. That is the key point - strain relief. A soldered collection will provide a better electrical contact but as with all joints it needs strain relief to prevent metal fatigue happening over time. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #976845 5th Jan 2023 11:11pm
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mikeh501



Member Since: 07 Jan 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1142

United Kingdom 
I bought the special crimps but in all honesty the bullet connectors are rubbish and best replaced.
Post #976934 6th Jan 2023 9:50pm
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 799

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
You can get these bullet connectors with glue heat shrink build in. If you make the electrical connection good then the heat shrink will take care of the mechanical strain
Post #976957 7th Jan 2023 7:13am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3213

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Have came across these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/322952982755?hash...R8bJ84WxYQ

They look a bit cheap, but much follows the trend of all other connectors. I only need to replace the bullets on the side repeaters as in the wisdom of the manufacturer, they used something like 3.5mm bullets. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #976958 7th Jan 2023 7:23am
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murph81



Member Since: 11 Sep 2022
Location: Ireland
Posts: 63

Ireland 2007 Defender 110 Td5 PU Belize Green
I used the ratchet type crimping tool from Autosparks along with the bullet connectors I got from them when replacing the chassis loom on my old 90 and it was perfect.
Post #976965 7th Jan 2023 10:14am
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