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OldGreenLandy

Member Since: 22 Nov 2022
Location: nottingham
Posts: 2

2005 Defender 110 2.5 TD PU Belize Green

Clutch stuck engaged, pedal is lighter and returns

Clutch stuck engaged, pedal is lighter and returns.

Hi all, went to drive the defender after it having been sat for a while, however when I depressed the clutch pedal it seemed to catch/get stiff and then release and let me fully depress the pedal. However, although the pedal returns normally, it does feel a bit lighter and is not lifting the clutch.

Anythoughts on the solution as many of the other clutch issues all seem to invole the pedal not returning.

Thanks in advance

Tom.

22nd Nov 2022 12:28pm

geobloke

Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

Hi Tom. Sorry for your troubles. What iteration of Defender do you have?

22nd Nov 2022 1:17pm

OldGreenLandy

Member Since: 22 Nov 2022
Location: nottingham
Posts: 2

2005 2.5 TD5 County Pick-Up 2dr, everything standard

22nd Nov 2022 1:20pm

geobloke

Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

Ok, a TD5 then. The clutch hydraulic system is a nice simple thing to work on.

If the vehicle has not been used in a while then begin with the simple things. Check how much fluid is in the reservoir. If low, bleed the system through and re-test the clutch. If that does not fix the problem then...

It is possible that the plunger inside the slave cylinder has corroded and is sticking. It is a common thing to forget to grease the slave cylinder before fitting.

So, if it were mine I would drain the fluid, remove the slave and check it. If serviceable, then clean up and rebuild with a good dollop of red rubber grease. Refit. If corroded and the internal surface of the cylinder is pitted, then replace. If you have to replace the slave cylinder, then also replace the master cylinder as well. These often fail soon after replacing one or the other cylinder. Refit, bleed and re-test.

If the problems persists then it is a problem within the bell housing and that will require the gearboxes to be removed to check components and replace if necessary. This is a DIYable job, but best done under cover at this time of year.

Things that could be wrong in the bell housing are the clutch fork pivot wears and the fork socket wears creating a notch feel to the pedal. Unlike the TDi clutch forks the pivot will not wear through the fork, the TD5 one is much stronger.

Then you are in to the clutch release bearing, pressure plate and clutch itself. Although I do not expect those are your problem. However, if you end up in the bell housing for he clutch fork and pivot it is worth replacing the input shaft spigot bearing (super easy to do) and clutch pack if greater than 50% worn.

Start with the hydraulics first though.

22nd Nov 2022 1:40pm

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