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Sharpasaspoon



Member Since: 18 Oct 2022
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 7

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
300tdi Turbo, replace or rebuild?
First post so please be gentle. My Garrett T250 - 04 has started to eat itself. Luckily I caught it before kenetic disassembly.

So, get it rebuilt or a nice new one? By the way, I shall not be getting a Chinese copy in any case.

Does anyone have good or bad experiences of either rebuild or new? I'd rather spend the money and be safe than take a cheaper risk, if you see what I mean.



[/img]
Post #968204 18th Oct 2022 5:10pm
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Bowbearer



Member Since: 12 Aug 2022
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 125

United Kingdom 1985 Defender 110 200 Tdi SW Auto Baltic Blue
Well cought

I had same issue on my 200 but turbos are like hens teeth.

There are plenty of refurbishers about. Good for them to do it as they can check for other problems.

If the engine is strong may be a good time to invest in a variable updated one, more power but also better on fuel if you can resist using your right foot.
Post #968271 19th Oct 2022 10:23am
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Dave T



Member Since: 07 Jun 2013
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 487

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Cairns Blue
maybe try a hybrid one from fourby https://fourby.co.uk/epages/950004277.sf/e...20Turbo%22 2015 RRS Autobiography SDV6
1994 Def 90 300tdi
Post #968289 19th Oct 2022 12:21pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4401

United Kingdom 
I went the DIY hybrid CHRA direction (as seen in the Fourby site above) on Miffy, but from Turbo Rebuild:

https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webshop/pro...ridge.html

Albeit Miffy's was a TD5 variant CHRA, but three years and all is well. It is a pretty easy DIY task. In Haynes terms probably a 4 out of 5 spanner.
Post #968296 19th Oct 2022 12:52pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4401

United Kingdom 
Re: 300tdi Turbo, replace or rebuild?
Sharpasaspoon wrote:


[/img]


What was it that bounced around on top of that compressor wheel? Nut, Bolt...!?
Post #968297 19th Oct 2022 12:53pm
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MercianRover



Member Since: 07 Apr 2022
Location: Culworth
Posts: 124

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Java Black
geobloke wrote:
I went the DIY hybrid CHRA direction (as seen in the Fourby site above) on Miffy, but from Turbo Rebuild:

https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webshop/pro...ridge.html

Albeit Miffy's was a TD5 variant CHRA, but three years and all is well. It is a pretty easy DIY task. In Haynes terms probably a 4 out of 5 spanner.


I did exactly the same - the only snag I encountered was one of the CHRA clamp bolts shearing off but I was prepared by having a helicoil kit available. Took me one and a half days to do in a single garage with the vehicle outside. I would have fitted a VNT but they were out of stock with no delivery date kown and the vehicle was off the road so I decided to fit a better-quality replacement part.
Post #968392 20th Oct 2022 9:08am
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Sharpasaspoon



Member Since: 18 Oct 2022
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 7

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
Re: 300tdi Turbo, replace or rebuild?
geobloke wrote:
Sharpasaspoon wrote:


[/img]


What was it that bounced around on top of that compressor wheel? Nut, Bolt...!?


I have no idea! It is not there now, I guess it went its merry way into the intercooler. Which reminds me, I must take that off and have a look for debris.
Post #968406 20th Oct 2022 10:40am
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Sharpasaspoon



Member Since: 18 Oct 2022
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 7

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
geobloke wrote:
I went the DIY hybrid CHRA direction (as seen in the Fourby site above) on Miffy, but from Turbo Rebuild:

https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webshop/pro...ridge.html

Albeit Miffy's was a TD5 variant CHRA, but three years and all is well. It is a pretty easy DIY task. In Haynes terms probably a 4 out of 5 spanner.


Thank you. That does look a good bit of kit and it retains my original UK Garrett casting.
I've seen Mike's Britannica Resto video and it looks a little daunting considering my set up, or lack of it. I'm working on the drive Sad
Post #968407 20th Oct 2022 10:44am
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Andrew95



Member Since: 27 Jul 2022
Location: Midlands
Posts: 58

United Kingdom 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Corris Grey
I am actually rebuilding my own currently with that exact hybrid turbo. Its a job I am starting to regret doing (It will all be worth it in the end..... I hope....). I think the difficulty of the job depends on how rusted and seized everything is.

Getting the manifold turbo unit off to start with was pretty easy. I believe both the bolts on the down pipe and the engine block can be difficult but I had no issues as both have been off recently.

This is the point the 'fun' started. There are 4 bolts holding the turbo core to the exhaust manifold. They are 1/2 inch, don't let anyone tell you otherwise, they are absolutely not 13mm, ask me how I know!

The only thing that comes close is the open end of a spanner, I have heard people grind down the ring side to fit and I have also heard of people cutting straight through the old core and getting a socket on them - but I don't have a grinder big enough (this is probably the best option and in hind sight I should have done this).

One came out reasonably easy. The other three were no goes. I tried a blow torch (it wasn't hot enough), hammer and chisel to free them, nothing shifted them. In the end I resorted to violence of many forms and eventually sheared them all off.

I have actually bought a second hand exhaust manifold for £50 as it would be no more money than trying to get a garage to drill and tap the studs out, my stud extractor tools wouldn't touch them as they were that rusted / welded in place.

Next fun and game is the giant circlip on the other end of the turbo. I have tried with a few different methods but have given up for now as I am not keen to damage the circlip too much. I have bought an industrial set of ratchet circlip pliers so hopefully that will get it off. If I cant get it off then I am going to just get a garage to do it.

Then I assume the next step is just the reverse of removal. I have heard from a friend to make sure the circlip is 100% secure as they sometimes dont quite seat properly.

Don't let me put you off, it seems to be a fairly easy job in theory and if everything undid as it should I dont think it would take too long, but for me I have battled at every corner. I would certainly make sure you are not reliant on the truck for a few days if you do choose to do it - just in case!
Post #969067 27th Oct 2022 3:02pm
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MercianRover



Member Since: 07 Apr 2022
Location: Culworth
Posts: 124

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Java Black
I'd forgotten the giant circlip and solving that took the most time.

I used an arrangement like when fitting piston rings, wish I'd taken photographs now...
Post #969070 27th Oct 2022 3:32pm
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Andrew95



Member Since: 27 Jul 2022
Location: Midlands
Posts: 58

United Kingdom 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Corris Grey
My regular circlip pliers wouldn't even touch it, they started to bend. I have attacked it with various chisels and pointy things in the hope that I can get it to move freely, no luck yet, the two ends move okay so hopefully the rest will. I think the pliers should be coming today so we will see how that goes!
Post #969072 27th Oct 2022 3:39pm
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Steve_overland



Member Since: 14 Oct 2018
Location: Gaydon
Posts: 282

United Kingdom 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi HT Chawton White
I recently did mine, replaced with a Garet turbo, I think, with a 300 TDI, you are never going to win a race, better to go down the reliable route and accept that an extra couple of miles an hour isn't worth all the extra cost....

Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
 @steve_overland on Insta.
110 expedition vehicle with pop roof
Post #969081 27th Oct 2022 6:21pm
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Sharpasaspoon



Member Since: 18 Oct 2022
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 7

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
Andrew95 wrote:
I am actually rebuilding my own currently with that exact hybrid turbo. Its a job I am starting to regret doing (It will all be worth it in the end..... I hope....). I think the difficulty of the job depends on how rusted and seized everything is.

Getting the manifold turbo unit off to start with was pretty easy. I believe both the bolts on the down pipe and the engine block can be difficult but I had no issues as both have been off recently.

This is the point the 'fun' started. There are 4 bolts holding the turbo core to the exhaust manifold. They are 1/2 inch, don't let anyone tell you otherwise, they are absolutely not 13mm, ask me how I know!

The only thing that comes close is the open end of a spanner, I have heard people grind down the ring side to fit and I have also heard of people cutting straight through the old core and getting a socket on them - but I don't have a grinder big enough (this is probably the best option and in hind sight I should have done this).

One came out reasonably easy. The other three were no goes. I tried a blow torch (it wasn't hot enough), hammer and chisel to free them, nothing shifted them. In the end I resorted to violence of many forms and eventually sheared them all off.

I have actually bought a second hand exhaust manifold for £50 as it would be no more money than trying to get a garage to drill and tap the studs out, my stud extractor tools wouldn't touch them as they were that rusted / welded in place.

Next fun and game is the giant circlip on the other end of the turbo. I have tried with a few different methods but have given up for now as I am not keen to damage the circlip too much. I have bought an industrial set of ratchet circlip pliers so hopefully that will get it off. If I cant get it off then I am going to just get a garage to do it.

Then I assume the next step is just the reverse of removal. I have heard from a friend to make sure the circlip is 100% secure as they sometimes dont quite seat properly.

Don't let me put you off, it seems to be a fairly easy job in theory and if everything undid as it should I dont think it would take too long, but for me I have battled at every corner. I would certainly make sure you are not reliant on the truck for a few days if you do choose to do it - just in case!


Thanks for that full reply.

For the 4 little sod bolts on the turbo I used a ground down flare spanner (or brake pipe spanner). Much, much better than a cut out ring spanner as a flare spanner has 6 sides.

That, a steel tube (for extra leverage) and a MAP gas torch to get it really hot did the trick, no rounding or drama. Once they moved a bit it was back and forth, a little bit further each time and bingo!

Then I couldn't split the turbo off the manifold. I'd done the hard part but try as I might it wouldn't budge! Hammering it would have been a bad idea of course. So I bit the bullet and took it to a turbo rebuild shop. £260.

Oh well, the result will be good in the long run.
Post #969090 27th Oct 2022 7:25pm
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Sharpasaspoon



Member Since: 18 Oct 2022
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 7

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
Steve_overland wrote:
I recently did mine, replaced with a Garet turbo, I think, with a 300 TDI, you are never going to win a race, better to go down the reliable route and accept that an extra couple of miles an hour isn't worth all the extra cost....

Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


Very nice. Good job.
Post #969091 27th Oct 2022 7:26pm
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Sharpasaspoon



Member Since: 18 Oct 2022
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 7

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
The end to this saga is I had the Garrett turbo rebuilt by Best Turbos of Oldbury. Good service.

They discovered a crack in the exhaust manifold, they supplied photos to prove, which was also evidenced by the carbon on the engine block.

All in, rebiuld, welding and VAT £360. 1998 Wolf 90.
Post #970493 9th Nov 2022 2:46pm
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