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spudfan

Member Since: 10 Sep 2007
Location: Co Donegal
Posts: 4480

Clutch slave cylinder 90 300 tdi

Clutch slave cylinder 90 300 tdi. Is this a straight forward operation to change? 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali
2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu
2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai

31st May 2022 11:19am

Penfold_6290

Member Since: 22 Sep 2021
Location: Dorset
Posts: 274

Relatively so, the mechanical side of things is quite simple - it's held on with 2 bolts, access is quite good, do it when the exhaust pipe is cold! Refitting can be tricky as you have to push the slave cylinder against its own spring pressure to get the bolts to thread on. Once bolted on, carefully rethread the hydraulic pipe and you're ready to bleed.

The tricky bit can be bleeding the system, loads of threads on here about how to do it, a 'one-man' pressure bleeder type device is the most reliable method in my experience. Might be worth considering a LOF Power Slave if you don't have the new slave cylinder yet. It significantly reduces the pedal effort.

Also get yourself 2 cheap 13mm spanners and grind them down, it may be necessary to adjust the pedal position with a new slave as the bite point may be different, access to the adjuster rod on the master cylinder is very tight, grinding the spanners down makes it a lot easier to do.

31st May 2022 11:43am

Mo Murphy

Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2078

1984 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Pennine Grey

Make sure you fit it with the bleed nipple uppermost or you'll spend a lifetime trying to bleed it 😁
HTH
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

31st May 2022 12:14pm

spudfan

Member Since: 10 Sep 2007
Location: Co Donegal
Posts: 4480

Thank you.

1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali
2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu
2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai

31st May 2022 12:14pm

spudfan

Member Since: 10 Sep 2007
Location: Co Donegal
Posts: 4480

Mo Murphy wrote:
Make sure you fit it with the bleed nipple uppermost or you'll spend a lifetime trying to bleed it 😁
HTH
Mo

Yes access to nipples is always a positive

1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali
2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu
2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai

31st May 2022 6:45pm

LukeyJ

Member Since: 06 Feb 2018
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 15

I have just replaced my master cylinder (Lof) and slave cylinder (trw) after a fault developed over 2 weeks my biting point on the clutch got lower and lower to the point that I could not engage gear.

When I removed the old MC it was full of crud and corrosion and what fluid was in there was basically water and oil.

Replaced the parts until I hit my first problem. Took forever to bleed, went though 2 litres of fluid and still air coming out, finally got to a point that I felt there was no air left.

Went to test…

Clutch pedal very light. (Also fitted Lof power spring) I can now engage gear, but clutch won’t return! Will ping up if I give it a tap. I’m at a complete loss on what it could be to the point that my brain has melted and nothing makes any sense, so could be something I’ve completely missed

Fitted the slave the correct way round. And when removing the old slave I retained the rod with some long nose pliers. That seems to be in place (didn’t want to tug to hard)

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Apologies for hijacking this thread, thought it save starting a new one.

Ps have don searches with so many different results.

Thanks

Luke

5th Oct 2022 1:46pm

I Like Old Skool

Member Since: 23 Feb 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 765

1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi ST Coniston Green

Try removing the power spring.

5th Oct 2022 1:57pm

geobloke

Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4395

LukeyJ wrote:
I have just replaced my master cylinder (Lof) and slave cylinder (trw) after a fault developed over 2 weeks my biting point on the clutch got lower and lower to the point that I could not engage gear.

When I removed the old MC it was full of crud and corrosion and what fluid was in there was basically water and oil.

Replaced the parts until I hit my first problem. Took forever to bleed, went though 2 litres of fluid and still air coming out, finally got to a point that I felt there was no air left.

Went to test…

Clutch pedal very light. (Also fitted Lof power spring) I can now engage gear, but clutch won’t return! Will ping up if I give it a tap. I’m at a complete loss on what it could be to the point that my brain has melted and nothing makes any sense, so could be something I’ve completely missed

Fitted the slave the correct way round. And when removing the old slave I retained the rod with some long nose pliers. That seems to be in place (didn’t want to tug to hard)

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Apologies for hijacking this thread, thought it save starting a new one.

Ps have don searches with so many different results.

Thanks

Luke

Hi Luke. When you say you retained the rod do you mean you took it out when replacing the slave cylinder? Those rods should be held in place by a clip on the back of the clutch arm. If you did not re-insert the rod in to the clip on the clutch arm properly then it can fall out in to the bell housing. That being the case there is not the return force of the pressure plate to push the rod back in to the slave cylinder and return the pedal back to its starting position.

Having said that the first time I bled Miffy with the same setup as you I struggled to get it to bleed properly until I realised that the pedal was so light that I hadn't done it wrong at all

5th Oct 2022 2:07pm

LukeyJ

Member Since: 06 Feb 2018
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 15

Will try removing the power spring later.

With regards to the rod I held it in place to prevent pulling it out with the slave. As I had read that when removing the slave you can accidentally pull the rod out too.

It was a nightmare bleeding, felt myself going a bit bonkers

5th Oct 2022 2:14pm

Mo Murphy

Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2078

Screw the pedal stop bolt in a bit so that the pedal doesn't travel so far down, that should sort the sticking at the bottom. Ensure the clutch still fully disengages.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

5th Oct 2022 3:05pm

Dave T

Member Since: 07 Jun 2013
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 487

Mo is right. I fitted a Lof spring in my 300 tdi and the pedal stayed down. After much head scratching, I realised that I had an older bulkhead and clutch pedal box which didn't have the pedal stop.

I found a newer pedal box at the LRO show this year and have fitted, it just needed the stop winding in a bit to stop the pedal going too far. 2015 RRS Autobiography SDV6
1994 Def 90 300tdi

5th Oct 2022 3:55pm

LukeyJ

Member Since: 06 Feb 2018
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 15

Great thanks, that’s made some progress there. so adjusted the stop and set the pedal to 140mm with the rubber off (made an assumption there, so correct me if that was wrong)

So.. pedal has stop sticking in the down position and I can pull away.. but now the gear selection is crunchy.

Does this mean I now adjust the push rod on the mc? If so, which way?

This job may be simple to some and although I do most the work on my truck with no probs but this one has me baffled and tested me to the extreme 🤣

Thanks again

6th Oct 2022 11:27am

Mo Murphy

Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2078

Morning Luke,
Providing that you're happy that the hydraulic system is bled, wind the forward nut (closest the end of the pushrod) further on. This will lower the pedal height a little but don't get TOO hung up on the 140mm height. Adjust a turn at a time and try driving it. If you adjust too far the clutch will slip under load so softy softy catchy monkey is the best approach.
HTH
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

6th Oct 2022 12:04pm

LukeyJ

Member Since: 06 Feb 2018
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 15

That’s great thanks Mo, I will look at that over the weekend.
I’m starting to think this is where I have messed up. Is not setting pedal/push rod adjustment la and just bolting it all on and bleeding.

So I set the height with the adjustable bolt on the back of the pedal box.

So from what you say I now need to do the nuts on the actual push rod.
At the moment the 2 locknuts closest to the bulkhead are as far up as they will go (closest to the mc) the the trunion is up against them. Then there’s a gap and the nyloc nut is on the end of the rod. Does this sound wrong?

I’ve got the lr guide but can’t make sense of it

Thanks again

7th Oct 2022 11:50am

Mo Murphy

Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2078

The adjustment bolt on the pedal box is just to limit the bottom of the pedal stroke, adjust in until the pedal returns each time. Take it for a drive and see how the clutch feels. Note where it starts to bite and that it disengages the clutch completely when you depress the pedal fully. Once that is established then you can look at adjusting the clutch rod.
HTH
Mo

Ps The book may tell you to set the pedal height using the stop but that's for the earlier type of pedal, not the one you seem to have. The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

31st Oct 2022 5:28pm

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