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Home > Puma (Tdci) > Taking the EGR valve out - hassle or easy job?
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enfield_dinosaur



Member Since: 14 Jun 2015
Location: Tertius orbis
Posts: 120

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Java Black
I found it.


Click image to enlarge


That's cramped! I think I will postpone my operation to tomorrow and remove the bonnet for better access.

Still, I think I got the wrong replacement part. Seems like it has a fitting for a little tube on the side, not unlike the Transit on Ian's picture. Or doesn't it matter?
Post #464077 17th Oct 2015 4:33pm
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Fifth Horseman



Member Since: 08 Mar 2011
Location: Lanarkshire
Posts: 322

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
The EGR is the same casting for the water-cooled and neon-watecooled ones, the only difference is the pipe you see in Ian's picture, so yes you have the correct one.

Interesting, looking at Ian's pictures it seems that there is now a new design of EGR as a replacement - wonder if it will be any more reliable
Post #464555 19th Oct 2015 9:08am
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Enfield,

If you do not have chequer plate wing tops be mindful however tempting it may be do not climb on or apply any pressure to the wing tops even elbow pressure can leave a dent! Place your cup of tea and tools on the deck!

Thumbs Up If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #464563 19th Oct 2015 9:34am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19611

United Kingdom 
I wouldn't remove the bonnet, it won't help and that would be a pain in its self!

Wear some disposable gloves or similar too with good feel if you can as they stop you getting all scraped up.
Otherwise the OH might think you've been in a scrap. Laughing

WD40 the bolts a good 24hrs in advance and don't drive it, it'll loosen it no end.

I prefer the relief of uploading a tune and slipping in a blank and to hell with the expensive little blighters. Rolling Eyes
Post #464567 19th Oct 2015 9:54am
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enfield_dinosaur



Member Since: 14 Jun 2015
Location: Tertius orbis
Posts: 120

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Java Black
These are all very good tips, thank you very much!

WD40 stands ready, I got the gloves - and while at first I did not like the silvery chequer plates on my black car, I'm happy I got them now. A boon when I will dive headfirst into the car.

Another tip was to use these tools: Proxxon 23068 Combispeeder. They make loosening the bolts easier in cramped conditions.

So now, got to wait for the rain to stop, and then it's only the four bolts...and me... Thumbs Up
Post #464600 19th Oct 2015 11:34am
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Thumbs Up

Good luck. Undoubtedly there'll be claret all round the area from cuts and abrasions to your hands, there's loads of sharp bits 'n' bobs that'll catch you out. Took a week to heal afterwards first time round until I got the knack of changing blanks let alone swapping out the entire unit. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #464602 19th Oct 2015 11:41am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16894

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
enfield_dinosaur wrote:
... Another tip was to use these tools: Proxxon 23068 Combispeeder. They make loosening the bolts easier in cramped conditions...



If you can find (an afford!) a set, these Blue Point (from Snap On) double flex combination spanners are stonkingly useful for inaccessible places. The ability to flex the head at two points is fantastic, especially on modern vehicles designe by computer to be completely inaccessible once assembled.

I don't know if they'd help with the EGR valve, but generally they are very useful!

Blue Point BOERMDFSP712 (photo 'borrowed' off Gumtree where someone - not me - has a set for sale)


Click image to enlarge
Post #464608 19th Oct 2015 12:21pm
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blackrock



Member Since: 01 May 2022
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 57

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Firenze Red
So the workshop manual and Haynes manual both say drain the coolant, but there's no mention of that on the forum that I can find. Does that mean it's drained to swap the cooler? Draining is not needed if it's just the valve that's being swapped?
Post #961602 14th Aug 2022 11:48am
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Honeyman



Member Since: 02 May 2022
Location: Haarlemmermeer
Posts: 58

Netherlands 2011 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Sumatra Black
No need to drain the coolant (at least I didn’t). Using ¼” drive sockets allowed access - not pleasant but not as difficult as I’d thought it would be. Something to stand on next to the car helps (caravan step or box etc.)

Good luck 2011MY 130 HCPU: daily driver
1979MY RRC 2-door: on the drive, in the garage & in a shed - all at the same time.
Post #961604 14th Aug 2022 12:25pm
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blackrock



Member Since: 01 May 2022
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 57

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Firenze Red
Hmm, was this on a 2.2 PUMA? It looks like the EGR valve for the 2.2 has coolant pipe attachments on it, maybe the valve separates from the cooler? Or was your EGR on a 2.4?
Sorry, I should have said 2.2.
Post #961605 14th Aug 2022 12:27pm
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Honeyman



Member Since: 02 May 2022
Location: Haarlemmermeer
Posts: 58

Netherlands 2011 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Sumatra Black
Apologies, yes 2.4, tbf the manual I had for the 2.4 also suggested draining coolant (which I ignored) 2011MY 130 HCPU: daily driver
1979MY RRC 2-door: on the drive, in the garage & in a shed - all at the same time.
Post #961612 14th Aug 2022 1:34pm
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