 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > 2007 2.4 loss of power, ideas? |
 
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| WilkoW Member Since: 09 Jun 2013 Location: Northants Posts: 84   
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Thanks Steve. I’ll try this tomorrow as perhaps the actuator has been affected by the new engine installed.
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25th May 2022 10:17pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19517
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Worth a shot anyway, it’s only the upper pivot circlip you need to take off.
As I said be careful not to lose it which is easily done. Lube it and free it up by hand and operate it. Beyond that, just regular lube should do and not have to take the circlip off. Bear in mind it gets really hot, that’s why I just use a little 3 in 1 oil on a dripper. My concern with grease is that A it’d need to be super high temp, but more importantly when that would dry out it’d likely get even more sticky and far worse and attract a lot of detritus and cause more wear. IIRC down towards the ground is full boost and up is the off boost. Mine was a bit sticky near the bottom hence why I had overboost then limp mode triggered by it. Bit of lube and was fine after. Good luck  Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~ I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧 |
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25th May 2022 11:58pm |
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| Minch90 Member Since: 15 Sep 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 226
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Planning on a bit of propshaft greasing this weekend, will now include a bit of turbo actuator oiling too! Thanks guys 2.4TDCI 90 - everyday brilliance
S3 V8 Lightweight - in the garage being ignored #newchassistime S3 lightweight - 2nd car 24V fire risk with a full tilt and the windscreen down S1 80" - first car fun - 75mph in neutral downhill once #wobblesallround |
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26th May 2022 6:39am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7681 
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Does sound like actuator.
My problem one is now running fixed vane as short term fix Cheers James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
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26th May 2022 5:03pm |
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| WilkoW Member Since: 09 Jun 2013 Location: Northants Posts: 84
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Weirdly, it’s still making the whooshing sound (under WOT) and sometimes it loses power (turbo stops spooling) which resolves itself when the ignition is cycled so I’m wondering if it’s the complete actuator that’s knackered or if this could be an electronic issue?
I’ve checked all the pipes and hoses which are all fine. Any ideas before I take it to a garage? |
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3rd Jun 2022 8:20pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19517
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Well you can try a new actuator, but if you go to a garage they’ll likely suggest a new turbo as a complete unit.
The actuators have part number stamped on them, it’s not unknown for actuators to get worn with mileage or filled up with dust and rubbish. If you do try a new actuator / recon then find it doesn’t work out and you do need a new turbo and compete assembly including actuator then you can take off your new actuator put the old one back on and sell it again. Personally I would go for a new / new recon actuator that shares the identical part number and see how that goes. With mine I had an overboost DTC show up, which told me that it was turbo related and the EA and linakage added to the symptoms when driving. If you get over or under boost and limp mode when you are driving it will run but you have perhaps 20% of normal power. In other words you can do 30mph with your foot flat on the floor and you won’t be going anywhere quick and you’ll have a 0 to 50mph barely in about 2 minutes.  Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~ I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧 |
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3rd Jun 2022 10:11pm |
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| WilkoW Member Since: 09 Jun 2013 Location: Northants Posts: 84
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Daft question probably, but should the actuator arm/rod move up and down freely with the engine off, or should it move by hand?
It won’t budge at present… |
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5th Jun 2022 8:25pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16855 
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The actuator cannot be moved be hand. If you disconnect the actuator rod from the actuator then the rod should move extremely freely (it feels as though it isn't doing anything, it is so free).
With the engine switched off the actuator should be in mid-position. |
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5th Jun 2022 10:58pm |
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