blackwolf wrote:

1) The 2.4 Transit 4x4 clutch is a SACHS 3000 950 727 and Googling this should find you a number of suppliers.

2)The current LR clutches are much better than the early ones, the driven plate in my 110 is more or less completely devoid of springiness but doesn't seem to rattle (it isn't a great driving experience) and it has now done something over 100k miles, by contrast if I recall correctly the vehicle was on its third clutch when it passed the 65k mark all those years ago.

3) I don't know how the price of a genuine one compares with the Sachs Transit clutch, I imagine that it (the LR one) is more.

4) Unless a spring has come out and mauled the flywheel the flywheel itself should be good for many more miles. It is worth checking for oil leaks from the crankshaft rear oil seal and if there are any, replacing the seal while you're in there. Many people like to replace the spigot bearing at the same time as the clutch but they can be really difficult to remove on the Puma engines and generally seem quite long-lived (mine is original at 255k miles still, but my TD5 Disco is on its third at 200k miles).

5) If you are changing the clutch I would strongly recommend that at the very least you inspect the output adaptor shaft splines carefully. If they are good, there is no point renewing the parts, just lubricate very generously on assembly and make sure that you assemble them correctly (the retaining ring must be fitted properly and do its job). My preferred lube for this is a molybdenum disulphide grease with the highest moly content you can find - CV joint grease is usually good - since it is good for sliding surfaces. If they are worn, consider fitting an Ashcroft kit.

6) Contrary to what it says in the WSM, if you are changing the clutch and don't need to drop the gearbox out from under the vehicle you don't need to take the exhaust off, you can slide the gearbox back on a transmission jack far enough to get to the clutch without actually lowering it. The transfer box will, of course, have to come off first.

7) Are you planning to do the work yourself? It isn't hard but can be daunting if you've not done anything this ambitious before, and you do need to remember that the transfer box and/or gearbox will probably cause life-changing injuries if you drop them on yourself.

1) Thank-you - there is a few suppliers out there that I have found.

2) I agree, but they still aren’t great. This one seems to have managed around 8k more.
Though until I find out it maybe the slave that’s the culprit and not springs but will have to see.

3) The prices are more or less at the same mark, at least currently there maybe £50 in it maybe with different suppliers.

4) I agree, I had intended to change those both the seal and spigot bearing. Before the last clutch change the seal was leaking, since it has not leaked but would be best to change anyway as you can bet it will after being disturbed. Leave nothing to chance as you can bet that it’ll be one of those “if on I had replaced that” type of moments.

5) Mine were good last time (splines) and were greased well, I am wondering if I may get the kit and keep it just in case. If it’s not needed I can keep it until a later date if it is it’s ready to go. I’ll have to think about it. I’m just thinking what a pain it would be to go maybe after a new clutch but it’s difficult to say. Driveline seems fairly decent right now. The slack I had it it at one time was mainly cured by replacing the DM’s all round with Ashcroft HD and rear halfshafts.

6) I can imagine, it’s not unknown as you know for the WSM to have some errors and irregularities contained which sometimes can make a repair a far bigger job than what is needed.
Maybe, it was intentional in places, maybe not..

7) No I won’t be tackling it myself, I am happy to undertake quite a few things but this is outside of the scope of what I would take on.
The main factor is as you’ve mentioned the risk and danger of the weight involved, I don’t have a workshop environment nor the equipment either.
So for this reason I’ll get it done for me, in the mean time I’m buying the parts myself and then after that I’ll look into transport and labour quotes.
Obviously I can’t drive it so that’s a pain in its self, I do have RAC home start etc etc. But may have to pay 50% possibly transport I’m not sure yet as I expect they’ll want it to be really local and my preferred Indy is D44 which is quite some way from me.

I’m not a fan of LR themselves for this kind of thing, I have emailed a few for parts enquiries just this week and not really even had a reply. Their charges are staggering and in all honesty I trust Indy experience more as they are more often or not enthusiast themselves where as LR have probably more of a get them out the door and the invoices paid up NEXT type attitude.

Finally, yes my mind is pretty much made up to go for the Transit clutch. The LR version has been a pain, I did expect better especially seeing as it was the latest LR clutch version.
Back at the time the latest slave was not available and could be that.
But my assessment is this is failed slave due to minor leak, or spring fell out the clutch or possibility of both.
One may affect the other but the symptoms I have is exactly as Steve E had.
The only bonus is when the time comes at least it can be loaded on truck just about and isn’t dead weight and not moveable at all.

The joys.

Thank-you for the info.  Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧

custom90steve wrote:

If it’s good enough for Blackwolf it’s good enough for me, I know he knows what he is talking about.

Don't believe it, he just makes it up as he goes along!

The Transit clutch does get the thumbs-up from forum stalwart dgardel however, so can't be bad.